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Leaking Radiator Side Tank

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Old 09-11-2009 | 07:03 PM
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Originally Posted by borland
What size metric o-rings did you finally use? That might help someone sourcing them later.
P30 with 3.5 mm thickness.

Originally Posted by ROG100
Interesting - my side tanks come with the main seal and two of the smaller seals.
Flat Rubber about 1mm thick - 25mm ID and 35mm OD.
Never used an O ring.
The o-rings are for the trans cooler which resides within the side tank, Rog.

Old 09-11-2009 | 07:07 PM
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Originally Posted by Mrmerlin
Randy usually the trans cooler and the oil cooler lines are ready to be rebuilt when the tank fails.
You can do the lines by cutting off the swages and installing new hose then use a screw clamp
Tell me more, please.
Old 09-11-2009 | 07:23 PM
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Look up Dwayne's intake refresh post. You rebuild the trans lines the same way.
Old 09-11-2009 | 07:35 PM
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P30 ? Not sure what that means. O-rings are measured by inside diameter (I.D) and cross section (C.S.). Are you saying you used a 30mm I.D. o-ring. Here's a source for metric sizes:

http://www.mdmetric.com/oring1.htm
Old 09-11-2009 | 08:03 PM
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Originally Posted by JHowell37
Look up Dwayne's intake refresh post. You rebuild the trans lines the same way.
This is what I came across there:

My leak is at the swage where the steel line attaches to the rubber hose.




Old 09-11-2009 | 08:09 PM
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Originally Posted by borland
P30 ? Not sure what that means. O-rings are measured by inside diameter (I.D) and cross section (C.S.). Are you saying you used a 30mm I.D. o-ring. Here's a source for metric sizes:

http://www.mdmetric.com/oring1.htm
See here:

http://www.herculescn.com/images/357358.pdf
Old 09-11-2009 | 08:24 PM
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OK, .... 29.7mm ID x 3.5mm CS.

The table in your link must be in error. The tolerances shown are too wide. They must mean 3.5mm +0.10, -0.00. Same for the I.D. .... 29.7mm +0.29,-0.00.
Old 09-12-2009 | 05:51 AM
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If that's where it's leaking, make sure you've got it tight. I replaced that small hose that attaches at the bottom of the cooler and it continued to leak. So I decided to try and tighten it some more. The leak stopped.
Old 09-12-2009 | 08:59 AM
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Randy if the adapters are leaking you try to tighten them a bit, But I would remove the leakers and add some pipe sealant then install them.
I would think given the age of the car the hose connections where the crimps are are ptobably the leak points.
With this info i would also suggest that you inspaect the lines that go to the trans , usually you will see weeping, if you do then you should replace these flexible lines as well so you dont get a cat fire
Old 09-12-2009 | 05:28 PM
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Originally Posted by JHowell37
If that's where it's leaking, make sure you've got it tight. I replaced that small hose that attaches at the bottom of the cooler and it continued to leak. So I decided to try and tighten it some more. The leak stopped.
There is nothing to 'tighten'. It is a swaged connection.

Originally Posted by Mrmerlin
.
I would think given the age of the car the hose connections where the crimps are are ptobably the leak points.
Correct, as I've been indicating all along.

Can I cut the swage collar off and reinstall using a hose clamp as shown in the pic above?
Old 09-12-2009 | 06:47 PM
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What I was trying to say was that we do not use O rings when we replace the coolers into the plastic end tanks. We use the flat rubber washers that come with the plastic end tank from Behr.
No O rings were hurt in the installation of our plastic tanks and coolers.
AFAIK the original seals were rubber washers and not O rings.
Not saying that an O ring will not do the job. Did you not get washers with the plastic end tank?
Roger
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Old 09-12-2009 | 06:49 PM
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"Can I cut the swage collar off and reinstall using a hose clamp as shown in the pic above?"

Yes
Old 09-12-2009 | 07:37 PM
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Roger,

You should be able to look at the replacement end-tank to see if the cooler ports have been redesigned for flat gaskets.

O-rings are supposed to fit in an o-ring grove to prevent crushing, while flat gaskets are compressed between flat surfaces. From the photo, the cooler appears to have a flat surface, so the 0-ring groove should be on the old end-tank.
Old 09-12-2009 | 08:33 PM
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Dammit Randy why be so indvidualistic? Sheesh just tightn the bloody thing like we said ... lol I took mine to a local hose place and for 40 bux they re-did them with much better hose and brazed (braiised sp?) instead of the suaging ... suaging is for p4ssies
Old 09-12-2009 | 08:57 PM
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Originally Posted by ROG100
What I was trying to say was that we do not use O rings when we replace the coolers into the plastic end tanks. We use the flat rubber washers that come with the plastic end tank from Behr.
No O rings were hurt in the installation of our plastic tanks and coolers.
AFAIK the original seals were rubber washers and not O rings.
Not saying that an O ring will not do the job. Did you not get washers with the plastic end tank?
Roger
OEM is an o-ring, therefore replacement with a new o-ring is correct - not a rubber washer.

Originally Posted by borland
Roger,

You should be able to look at the replacement end-tank to see if the cooler ports have been redesigned for flat gaskets.

O-rings are supposed to fit in an o-ring grove to prevent crushing, while flat gaskets are compressed between flat surfaces. From the photo, the cooler appears to have a flat surface, so the 0-ring groove should be on the old end-tank.
There is a groove on the cooler that the o-ring sits within - look closely at that picture.

Originally Posted by heinrich
Dammit Randy why be so indvidualistic? Sheesh just tightn the bloody thing like we said ... lol I took mine to a local hose place and for 40 bux they re-did them with much better hose and brazed (braiised sp?) instead of the suaging ... suaging is for p4ssies
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