danglerb

Maybe we could cook something up for Sharktoberfest (10/17 I think)?

Whats the magic goop, only thing I don't find sold on ebay cheap is BG ISC® Induction System Cleaner.

blown 87

My understanding is that the ISC is the stuff that breaks the gum down on the valves, it works with the injector cleaner and the 44K keeps it clean.

It is more costly than the other two products IIRC.

worf928

Makes sense. You can also wipe out the air guide when you're done.


I totally forgot about the IAC/ISV bypass. If the introduction of the BG is done through the rear left-side hose, a bunch of it will get sucked through the ISV and then by expelled into the back of the air guide just as if it had been introduced via the oil-neck line.

Stephen Porter

Here's the link to BG's products page:

http://www.bgprod.com/products/fuelair.html

I'm a little confused about what is what. There seem to be TWO "apparati." One for both injectors and intake and another just for injectors?

The fuel injector cleaner is part 210.

Intake tract cleaner is part 208.

So I don't know what the second ingredient in the "two-part" kit the sales rep was talking about is? Is that the "44K" stuff? Instructions for that just say put it in the gas tank.

Greg, can you tell us what specific products to use and the order in which they go in?

I spoke with Dr. Bob at lunch today and he is just going to get the $80 tool from HF and make up an adaptor for the injectors.

SpeedBump

I have had the BG stuff done on my truck and SUV just as PM. I had RunRite done on my Pcars and they both seem to clean things up nicely and keep things clean once they are clean.

IcemanG17

Hmm I sold sharky almost two months ago.....my race 928 didn't run then and doesn't run now....sharky runs perfectly..... yes I'm brilliant

blown 87

I use the old style injector for the intake air cleaner, that is the important part, the key to it if you will.
Part number 206, it goes in the bottle that I have that looks like this.



I guess you could make one, it needs at least one gauge, really two gauges one for "Tank" pressure and one for the pressure of the line that leads to the atomizer end.
You need to be able to adjust the atomizer as far as where you lock the end down in relation to the hose, IE 12 O'clock 3 O'clock 6 O'clock etc.

You have to have the atomizer on the end or it will not work very well.
The atomizer.



I tried it with the cheap tool they used to have, this one,



And many times I would have to do it twice to get it clean.

IMHO you can get by with out a injector cleaner tool on pretty much any modern injector like was in my S4.



This tool is a pain in the but to use, you have to disable the fuel system and plug the return line, just dump the part number 208 and 210 in the tank right after you do the intake cleaning and just before you fill the tank, this is important.
Either way gets it to go through the injectors.



OK, to use the three products, I drive the car to get it to normal temp, quickly install the tool with the 206 in it for the intake cleaning.



I then set the pressure on the in tank at ten PSI per cylinder on most cars, it will work fine on the 928.

I use a prop to hold the engine at 1800 RPM steady and turn the cleaner on, on a S4 it goes in the boot between the MAF and the throttle body, the atomizer goes in there with it pointed down stream.

Just turn it on and wait till it is done, you can tell the badly clogged up ones by the smoke and smell.

As soon as it runs the cleaner out, stop the engine remove the tool, put it back together quickly, (with in a few minute, long before it cools) and run it through the gears, first and second a couple of times to blow all the crap out.

Pour the 208 and 210 in the tank, fill the tank with gas and your done.
If it was dirty you will see improvement after that tank full.

I also put the 44K in every few thousand miles when I remember, but say every 10-15 thousand.

If I am not clear, let me know I will try to explain better.

I hope this helps.

Greg Nettles

blown 87

I really think you need to use the atomizer for best results.
When I said #3 I meant past the MAF and before the throttle body, not through a line.

Stephen Porter

So this is BG part no. 9210 "Inject-A-Flush® Apparatus" (pic from BG site) ? $285 + tax from BG rep.



And this is BG part no. 9206 "BG AIS Cleaning Tool" ? $75 + tax from BG rep.


This is NOT the BG injector tool, right? But something you use instead for badly plugged injectors?



This is the BG injector flushing tool:

Part No. 908T Tapper Valve (shown) or
Part No. 908H Handle Tap

(This is where I'm still not quite following.)

What you're saying is you really don't need any forced flushing tool for the injector cleaning fluid except on badly clogged units, and that putting 208 (fuel injector cleaner) and 210 ("44K" stuff) in the tank after intake cleaning with 206 handles all but really badly plugged injectors?

---------------------------------------

Greg, this sure helps me. If I'm clear on what the red tank w/guage tool is: a NON-BG tool you use to flush injectors if they need it then I'm close to getting it.

Anyway, I really appreciate your taking the time to write it up so well.

I don't know if there is enough interest in the L.A. area to make purchasing the BG intake flush tool and the atomizer for ~$350.00 and a case of 206 + whatever the 2nd intake ingredient is (210??) at $27 x 12 = $324. That would give 12 cars a BG intake cleaning for about $65 the first time and maybe $30 every time thereafter. The going rate at the BG-authorized shops seems to be $125 for intake and $125 for fuel injectors.

And maybe Dr. Bob is going to come up with a viable substitute for the BG "Injecta-Flush" tools.

danglerb

On my car the fuel line to the injectors was removed and a pressure fed cleaner line was attached. The fuel return line to the tank was connected to the tank on the cleaner (I think, it used a normal fuel pump inside I think). Car was started and a prop was used to set the rpm about 2500, and the goop ran through.

worf928

I'm missing something then. Where do you stick the business end of the atomizer to introduce the atomized 206 so that it enters the rubber "elbow" between the MAF and the throttle body? Seems you'd do this at the line that runs to the the elbow on the driver's side?

blown 87

yes, it looks to be a new version of the one I have.

Yes, that is the atomizer that you really need.


I think that is the injector flush tool for the pressurized cans, it does the same thing as the part number 9210 and 9206 but uses cans instead of a tank you pour the product in, not a fan of pressurized cans like that because once you open the can if you have any kind of leak, well lets say you do not want to get any of it on paint.

For pressurized cans

If the injectors are plugged, not sure any amount of cleaning is going to do any good.
The three part kits are kind of missnamed, it really is not a injector cleaner as much as it is a carbon/gum cleaning package.
15/20 years ago cleaning injectors was a good thing, now for the most part it is just a way for mechanics to remove money from your pocket and have you feel good about it.

That is just MHO though, others will say I am wrong, oh well.

If I had the ability to use the tool, no way would I pay some one else to do it, I would buy the tool.
remember you have to have a air compressor to use it.

blown 87

You stretch the boot and put the line in between the maf and the boot.

Just take the MAF out, install the tool then put the maf back in with the small part of the line there, you will get some unmetered air, but as much extra fuel as you are putting into the engine, that is a good thing.

danglerb

When you pull the MAF, I'd reach in with a shop towel and mop up the lake of oil in the U.

I was thinking a CIS injector might make a fine atomizer, or maybe one of the heads used in a water misting system.

dr bob

Greg--

About how long does it take to get the 16oz can of intake cleaner through the engine? I'm spec'ing spray nozzles and need at least an idea of flow rate. Someplace I remember reading that you use about 10PSI in the cannister for that part.

For those playing along at home:
I went to get the H-F cannister but not in stock at the local store. They can order one for me or I can just order it and have it shipped to the hacienda here directly. More looking at the H-F instruction and the BG website has me convinced that there's no magic inside either of the devices, and that it may not be too tough to fab an equivalent piece out of common plumbing bits. For instance, a foot of 2" copper pipe holds a little more than 16oz from the can. I'll be using the hoses and connections I made for the fuel pressure gauge so no worries about any adapters. Have the regulator and a couple valves already, so I'm part way there before leaving the house again.

Meanwhile, it's over 100º this afternoon, and even with only 6% RH it's a little toasty out driving around. Progress may lag a few days until I can get out early to the plumbing store.