KLVA

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6mil928

Perfect advice for the 928.

utjmac

Here we go, I dove in and did a lot of inspection and cleanup today, awaiting my shipment from 928 specialists tomorrow I hope. Light wipe down of engine, vacuumed the years of pine needles, dirt and hood insulation (I removed all of that today, as it was only making a mess). I reoiled the K&N filter, and wiped down the underside of the car, inspecting each corner of the underside for issues. Got a design for some wooden ramps, just have to build them tonight.

A couple nice surprises - Do these typically have Koni shocks from the factory? I've got what looks to be red Koni adjustables on each corner. Exhaust looks clean, brakes look great, with slotted rotors up front. I looked back through receipts from one of the previous owner, and it looks as if he ordered some performance brakes and maybe even springs in the past, so I'm unsure if a custom spring is on it now.

A couple issues, a lot of questions

Fluids - Engine oil looked toward the bottom of the 1.5L range. High on the front of the dipstick, bottom of the range on the back, I'll use the one of the back of the dipstick, as there has to be fluid to that mark. I plan to swap it out with 10W-40 tomorrow.

Coolant looked clean, but was a little low.

Power steering fluid was very low, it wouldn't even read on the dipstick. I plan to vacuum some out and refill with fresh tonight, repeating every week for the next few weeks. I think it's leaking a bit, but I haven't seen a drop on the floor yet.

Brake fluid looked high, potentially from absorbing moisture, I plan to bleed and refill tomorrow. It's very difficult to brake currently.

Transmission fluid looked high, when observing the fluid level. I'm planning to drop the pan and change the filter and refill toward the end of the week once my filter kit comes in.

Differential fluid, I've yet to check. Awaiting seals coming later this week.

Questions

There is a plug in the plenum (Or supposed to be), sticking up, I see multiple connectors inside the plug, but nothing is connected to it on my car. What is this, what's the issue with it disconnected, what can I improve by reconnecting?

Are the Koni's stock?

I see a metal line that crosses under the exhaust right about the distance of the rear of the passenger wheel well. It is either catching a drip from the engine, or it's seeping. I was guessing this is the rear AC line, and don't see what that would be seeping, unless it's bad seals from sitting, and compressor/line oil seeping out. I've yet to verify operation of the AC.

Bottom of my engine is wet with oil. I saw where a previous owner has had the valve cover gasket R&R'ed, I hope this is just remaining from that. There are no drops present, just caked on dirt. What's the most prone area to leak that I should inspect?

What mightyvac is the most useful on these cars for ordinary maintenance? I bought an 8000 at the local OReillys, but it's plastic and I feel like a better deal can be had online. Suggestions? Do I need to buy a seperate pump for fluids, like pumping trans and removing PS fluid?

My trunk currently doesn't latch correctly. I hear it click, but a firm pull from the underside will open it without a key. I inspected, and found a connector disconnected from the rear assembly. I reconnected, and instantly, an arm rotated vertically around the lock mechanism. It still works the same way, but was this disconnected for a reason? What was the rotation doing?

Fuse BOX- Indeed, the boot was for the O2 plug. I found the other two wires stuffed under the fuse panel, both the heater and the other side to run to the o2 plug. What is the location of the 02 plug that this should run to?

Upon attempt for removal of the fuse box, I removed all harnesses (breaking a few retaining clips doh!), removed the two screws on top, and began to pull it out, only to find some "new wiring" that has been added to the back of the fuse box, with an additional Bosch relay sitting behind it.

Air Cleaner - I pulled the aircleaner off I notices a crack in some of the incoming ducting. It looks like a previous owner tried to use silicone adhesive to repair. Is high temp silicone better, or should I plastic weld this back? Does it matter since it's upstream of the air filter? On the passenger side, there also what I assume is a water drain tube underneath the air cleaner. Where does this run? Some owner in the past mangled three pieces of tube together the air cleaner disconnects easier. Should the holddown straps be tight? Mine are someone loose, accomplishing their task, but I can slide them around quite easily. Should I replace them?

I want to R&R the fusebox tonight, so any comments on proceeding with wire removal or commentary on the typical alarm integration would be appreciated. I have factory manuals on the way, which I'm sure would answer many of these questions. More pictures to come momentarily.
I found a fairly sizable (8 or 10 gauge) red wire, taped off near the exhaust, almost even with the passenger side tire. Was this for an o2 sensor in question?

Is this tag the option list? The numbers don't seem to match up with option codes I've seen. Can anyone identify?

Thanks in advance for all the help! I can't wait to get her back to her beautiful self and run the cobwebs off of her!

John

utjmac

Here's a preview of the madness.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Vbv4PRm1rmQ
Newbie I know, but I need to know what needs repair, and/or what else to look for?

first picture - Can you identify this part? It looks like a bolt or port cover. I'm sure I knocked it off while cleaning grime off the engine.

2nd- You can see the rubber protector that are on all my lenses. It makes them safer, but they are yellowed, so it looks funky.

3rd - I plugged the motor underneath the trunk latch back in (it was disconnected) something spun around 90 degrees, leaving it now parallel with the bumper. Trunk still seems to latch/close/ not stay latched, the same way.

Thanks in advance for the commentary.

Dan87951

Hmm there are no options listed other than C02 which is cataylist if I remember correctly.

danglerb

I think its more Calif, as in 50 state, not 49 state.

JHowell37

Ditch the protective covers on the headlights. 7" H4 replacements are only around $45 if one breaks. The standard 7" sealed beam pieces of **** aren't worth protecting since you can get them just about anywhere.

utjmac

Will ditch the protective cover.....thanks for the heads up on cost.

That's odd that no options are shown, only the catalytic convertor.

Any insight on the trunk latch or fusebox mess? Anyone with aftermarket alarms familiar with the modifications in the fusebox?

Mike Frye

PS fluid: You know that these cars use ATF in the reservoir for the PS fluid, right? If you use regular PS fluid it can adversely affect the seals. Do a search on that one, you'll find lots.

utjmac

Thanks Mike. Conventional DEX/MERC is what I plan on putting in it. I have a case of it sitting beside the girl right now for the PS fluid exchange and the transmission drain and refill.

Finally got a better picture of the fuse panel.

Both the brown wires were grounds running back to one of the grounding bolts. There was also a green wire with an alligator clip, clipped to one of the ground bolts (odd). I'm still troubleshooting what this modifications on the panel was for. I've got a volt meter, is there a best way to check my relays as I diassemble, clean and replace?

John

Mike Frye

Cool. I've been into, under or through almost every part of my car in the past 3 years, but haven't pulled the CE panel yet.

Go man, go!

utjmac

Considering I'm an engineer who hates electrical, I figure I'll go with what I dislike first, and finish her up with my favorite part, wash and wax. Thanks for the encouragement!

Landseer

Call Roger and replace all 53 relays. I ordered 8 today myself.
Replace all 45 fuses.

Dremel and wire brushes, and contact cleaner, and some 400 paper wrapped around thin nail file will help on panel. Compressed air / vac to remove any stray wire brush bristles.


Not sure why the splicing / taping.

I can pull the 85 panel (same as yours) to take photos easily to compare wires if you want to go that route. Anything to help a fellow engr save a shark. (Can pull 86 panel, but must wait for wife to be in 3 rem sleep mode for that. They are same,anyway)

Hilton

The options lists are generally very hit and miss. Only by comparing with other cars will get start to work out whats unusual about it

My 89 has full leather interior - dash, console, headliner, a-pillars, rear quarter panels, hatch panel, door cards, but no option for it.

Its definitely all leather, I've had the panels all out and been able to inspect the edges of the leather on the back-side to make sure. My 87 is vinyl for all those parts.

Landseer

Same here. From original owner 85, full leather, LSD, spoiler delete, clearly stock, only CO2 option listed in hatch area.