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In DC for an interview & vapor locking like mad in the crappy traffic...

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Old 09-15-2009, 05:01 PM
  #31  
Mrmerlin
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Advance sells some aluminized fiberglass insulation it is made to fit on hoses and wires it is sewn on one side to make a tube, comes in different diameters and its about 3 feet long
Old 09-15-2009, 05:34 PM
  #32  
bronto
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Originally Posted by BobS!
I know this thread has been done for a while but ...

I know this thread has been done for a while but ...

I have had an intermittent problem that nearly fits this general description. My engine will drop-out/cut-off for an instant after doing stop-and-go traffic then getting up to highway speeds. Or, occasionally just die in stop-and-go but start right up when I hit the key. The weird part is, this never happens when I run the AC.

Insulation is cheep I will try that. Any other thoughts?
Are heat or altitude a factor? It usually is with vapor lock.
Old 09-15-2009, 06:39 PM
  #33  
SharkSkin
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I wonder if part of the problem may be an incorrect fuel pump? I think it's fairly easy to put a fuel pump from a later car onto a CIS car, and the later pumps don't give you the same pressure. I have no special insulation and I've never had vapor lock issues, IIRC the worst circumstances I've driven under WRT this issue are high desert in Oregon(~5,000 ft or more, >100°, stuck waiting for an accident to clear after having driven dozens of miles at "ludicrous speed"). Check the part number on your FP and confirm that it is the correct part. Of course you may need to check pump output, filter condition, etc. using the normal flow/pressure tests as well.

Also I have yet to see a 78/79 that did not have dual pumps. One in the usual place under the tank, the second either in-tank or in the wheelwell just forward of the filler. It's possible that the second pump is only "needed" for extreme conditions as described in the OP. All too frequently a PO or lightly-informed mechanic will disconnect something without fully understanding the role of what they disconnected, and if the change gets them started and around the corner it is considered "good enough".

Also, turning the key to "on" will not run the fuel pump at all. You have to turn the key to the "start" position, at which time the fuel pump will engage for at most a few seconds, unless a tach signal is received by the FP relay indicating that the engine is running. If the tach signal is present the FP will run, if it is not the FP will stop. This is a safety feature to prevent the FP running in the event of an accident where the engine stops but the key is on, also to prevent the cylinders from filling with fuel if you simply turn the key to "on".

Remember, CIS will dump fuel into the intake constantly with the FP running; there is no means to shut the flow of fuel off as with the electrically-activated injectors on later cars.
Old 09-15-2009, 09:21 PM
  #34  
kary4th
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Oh, I got the job.

Today was my second day... I've been kinda busy lately, and didn't take the time to let you guys know. Sorry!

With the insulation on the car, I've had no more problems.
Old 09-15-2009, 09:26 PM
  #35  
Randy V
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Originally Posted by kary4th
Oh, I got the job.

Today was my second day... I've been kinda busy lately, and didn't take the time to let you guys know. Sorry!

With the insulation on the car, I've had no more problems.
Congrats!

Did you move to DC, or still in Conesus?
Old 09-15-2009, 09:50 PM
  #36  
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My problem is definitely temperature dependent. Higher Temps and stop-and-go is not are not good. Cool mornings at highways, smooth as silk.
Old 09-15-2009, 10:36 PM
  #37  
kary4th
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Originally Posted by Randy V
Congrats!

Did you move to DC, or still in Conesus?
It's rough - I'm in DC, but Janet and the kids are still in Conesus. Our house should go on the market tomorrow, but who knows when it will sell. It's a unique property, so it could go in three days, or three months. The right buyer needs to be out there. Someone who wants 20 acres of woods and 8 acres of fields with 1700 feet of driveway. It can be a lot to take care of, but I wish I could find the same down here... For less than 10 million, that is.

Land prices really are staggering near DC. It's not the houses, it's the land they're on.

Everything's different here - locals mearure distance between locations in minutes, not miles.
Old 09-15-2009, 11:27 PM
  #38  
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Congrats on the job, you need to goto SITM!

Glenn
Old 09-15-2009, 11:52 PM
  #39  
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My mechanic confirmed for me that I do indeed have dual pumps in my '79, and that he checked out the in tank pump when he replaced the out tank pump. In is not lightly informed, and I'd be stunned if he got the wrong pump. My recollections of problems:

Last summer, Shaver Lake (CA) ~5500 feet, no more than 85 degrees, engine would die wih sudden release of throttle and clutch disengagement but would fire immediately as soon as clutch engaged (basically a bump start). Wouldn't start when parked. Fine after 1 hour.

Fuel pump replaced in Feb.

Late July, Las Vegas, ~100 degrees or more, stop and go on the blvd required about 20 starts to get off and into a parking spot
Early Aug, Yosemite Tioga Entrance ~10500 feet, ~80 degrees, required a turnout and cool off for 1/2 hour or so.
Through Yosemite, exhibited the same behavior as Shaver Lake through around the lower entrance on HWY 41.
By Oakhurst (~2200 ft, 95 degrees) the problem was barely noticeable if there at all.
Old 09-16-2009, 09:48 AM
  #40  
fraggle
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SITM yes, but frenzy is closer!!

Do you have a new-permanent residence yet? I'm out in Bristow, it's real nice, but if you're working in DC itself the commute might be rough.

My end of the new bristow village subdivision is crawling with car guys. Ford, chevy, vw and me, the porsche guy!
Old 09-16-2009, 11:07 AM
  #41  
Dennis Wilson
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Originally Posted by bronto
My mechanic confirmed for me that I do indeed have dual pumps in my '79, and that he checked out the in tank pump when he replaced the out tank pump. In is not lightly informed, and I'd be stunned if he got the wrong pump. My recollections of problems:

Last summer, Shaver Lake (CA) ~5500 feet, no more than 85 degrees, engine would die wih sudden release of throttle and clutch disengagement but would fire immediately as soon as clutch engaged (basically a bump start). Wouldn't start when parked. Fine after 1 hour.

Fuel pump replaced in Feb.

Late July, Las Vegas, ~100 degrees or more, stop and go on the blvd required about 20 starts to get off and into a parking spot
Early Aug, Yosemite Tioga Entrance ~10500 feet, ~80 degrees, required a turnout and cool off for 1/2 hour or so.

Through Yosemite, exhibited the same behavior as Shaver Lake through around the lower entrance on HWY 41.
By Oakhurst (~2200 ft, 95 degrees) the problem was barely noticeable if there at all.
It sounds like you are experiencing higher than normal underhood temps. Some things to check are operation of the viscous and auxillary fans, thermostat, air/fuel mixture (lean can cause higher temps) dirty injectors and partially plugged cat.

Dennis
Old 09-16-2009, 12:51 PM
  #42  
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The normal operating temp for this car is just under the 2nd bar. It's even there when vapor locking. It had an auxiliary fan issue when I bought it but that was resolved with a new switch on the radiator. Before that, we swapped in a lower temp thermostat. I have asked my Stuttgart trained (928 in '78) wrench about running lean, and he says no it's perfect. The cat is new as of last September. Dirty injectors could be an issue I suppose but I do run good gas, and a bottle of techron every year just to make sure.
Old 09-16-2009, 12:52 PM
  #43  
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Dennis,

Good thoughts. Fans work well, thermostat is new, engine temp but the gauge is very reasonable. Mixture is a good point, I get good fuel mileage…

… Partially plugged cats sounds like a great excuse for an exhaust upgrade.

Bob
Old 09-16-2009, 07:31 PM
  #44  
kary4th
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Originally Posted by fraggle
SITM yes, but frenzy is closer!!

Do you have a new-permanent residence yet? I'm out in Bristow, it's real nice, but if you're working in DC itself the commute might be rough.

My end of the new bristow village subdivision is crawling with car guys. Ford, chevy, vw and me, the porsche guy!
I'm working in Falls Church, about 500 feet inside the beltway, just south of Rt. 50. I'm looking everywhere for houses with at least a little land (I'd be thrilled with a half acre) and great schools... and a garage. What a pain in the ***, just finding houses with a garage!
Old 10-14-2010, 01:48 AM
  #45  
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Default 82 US Vapor Lock - hints?

Originally Posted by Dennis Wilson
This has been brought up before and yes, the CIS systems can vapor lock. This is why Porsche put the second in tank pump on the 928's destined for hotter climates. Some options to remedy this problem are to replace the standard Bosch pump with a 6.5 bar Pierberg, install an intank pump (the wiring is in place) or insulate the fuel lines in the engine compartment.
Dennis
I had my 82 US vapor lock recently.

1. Engine NOT running very hot. Car has all-alum DEVEK radiator, low temp thermostat, recent new viscous fan-clutch
2. Outside temp was around 105F. We were on a PCA tour going through some twisties in hilly country (not very high <2000').
3. Gas tank probably only 1/2 full or less.

From yours and other posts I'm thinking the easiest/cheapest thing to try is insulating the fuel lines in the engine compartment. Will try to keep the tank full in future as well.

Can you post photo of your fuel line insulation setup?

Does a 1982 have two fuel pumps?

I remember having the ckeck valve replaced to solve a starting problem.


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