Hi all,

Just starting on my first TB/WP job so I jack the car up and on to 4 stands placed under the sill jacking points, go to open the drivers door to pull the bonnet (I'm English) and to my suprise the door is very diffcult to open, I have to lift the handle and really pull, I check the passenger door, not as bad. When on its wheels the doors perfectly with that reassuring clunk.
I just didn't expect that. Anyone noticed this, should the body sag? The body is rust and accident free

 

my 944 does the same thing when just the front end is jacked up

 

I have never noticed that on either of my 928s, no matter how they were jacked.

 

I agree with Wally ... I lift one side up with one jack all the time and change both wheels doors work fine....

 

some cars have a tighter body than others, i do notice a difference with different 928s,,
it doesnt seem to be year specific either, some of them both doors open and close then same others have a bind and are more difficult to open when on jack stands

 

Mine has always had the door issue when on stands, which is often!

 

Thanks all,

As long as I'm not alone I feel ok, Maybe I should of added the car as 285k miles on it and a bit of old age is creaping in... bit like me :-)

 

Yep - if I lift one leg of my car, the door doesn't open and close as smoothly.

 

no problem with mine.

 

My car was the same way, which worried me until i asked around and found some have this problem and some don't. I wouldn't think it so much has to do with stiffness as it does varrying build tolerances where some doors remain largly uneffected and some are effected, probably to different degrees.

 

Reviving a long dead post: I put my Shark up on stands two days ago and when I got something out tonight, I noticed the doors were stiff to open. Glad to hear it's not something terminal.

I guess it must be the weight of the motor and transmission pulling the ends of the car down, since the jackpoints are inboard of the suspension.

 

Mine does it too...although she has not sat on all 4 's much, as soon as she is in the air, the doors are tight....

 

Both of the cars I've worked on did this.

This is why you should never raise the car if the strut across the engine bay is not in place. You might crack the windshield. Once it is on stands, the brace can be removed for maint.

 

It probably varies from car to car based on age, wear and variances in original manufacture. The door gaps and closing on my '79 don't seem to be affected when it's up on stands. The '84 S I picked up to turn into a race car seems to have a bit more chassis flex, but it has over 100k miles on it and looks to have lived a hard life.

 

Steve NO! just the opposite. See WSM 10-2. If the cross brace is coming off, remove it first, before lifting the car. Then put it back on when the car is back on the ground.
Most folks get this backwards. Here is a recent thread on it:
https://rennlist.com/forums/928-foru...n-jacking.html