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Hopeful future owner....opinions?

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Old 07-28-2009, 01:04 AM
  #31  
utjmac
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Interesting...owner revisited engine, reading an M28/16

Isn't that an 81 4.5 liter engine? Wow...someone please concur, and this could potentially be a huge save if I thought I was buying this Euro strictly for the sweet drivetrain....

He even gave me the engine serial number, which places it as a 81 2.5US spec V8.
Old 07-28-2009, 01:14 AM
  #32  
danglerb
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M28/16 came in the US 81/82 automatics, a 4.5L Ljet motor.
Old 07-28-2009, 01:29 AM
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jpNcos
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Bummer engine swapped. Thanks for the update.
Old 07-28-2009, 01:39 AM
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Vilhuer
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Originally Posted by utjmac
.........PRE-1981 928
*************************************************
VIN : 92A0801124
MODEL : 928
YEAR : 1980
ENGINE : 4.7LTR [EURO]
BODY : COUPE
SERIAL : 1124
*************************************************
====================================
REPORT PREPARED BY 928CODES.COM
VIN is NOT from 4.7 S. If it were S model it would be 92A0821124. These are two separate cars. 0 is 4.5L 240 hp and 2 is 4.7L 300 hp. Both engine types had their own VIN sequence.

Code:
MY   Model     Market   Smallest VIN   Largest VIN   Qty  Total
---------------------------------------------------------------
80   928       ROW      92A08000011       - 001192  1182
     928       USA+CAN  92A08100011       - 101649  1639
     928 S     ROW      92A08200011       - 201466  1456   4277
Even if engine were 4.7L from same period euro car would not be S. No matter if it had spoilers, S model brakes etc or not. For most people it doesn't matter much but changing engine doesn't change body to S. Nothing will. S is S only when factory did it in production line.
Old 07-28-2009, 03:28 AM
  #35  
danglerb
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Good to know, I've been going by this old post, and didn't know 80 was different.

'81 and '82 MY ROW 4.5L and S are easy to tell apart with VIN as is '80 also by the way.

WP0ZZZ92ZBS800011 = '81 ROW 4.5L
WP0JA0929BS820011 = '81 US 4.5L window plate and door sticker
WP0ZZZ92ZBS820011 = '81 US 4.5L fender stamping
WP0ZZZ92ZBS840011 = '81 ROW S

WP0ZZZ92ZCS800051 = '82 ROW 4.5L
WP0JA0928CS820051 = '82 US 4.5L window plate and door sticker
WP0ZZZ92ZCS820051 = '82 US 4.5L fender stamping
WP0ZZZ92ZCS840051 = '82 ROW S
Old 07-28-2009, 09:20 AM
  #36  
utjmac
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That is interesting. he has a title that says it's an S, but it is Al DMV.
Old 07-28-2009, 10:11 AM
  #37  
Vilhuer
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Originally Posted by danglerb
Good to know, I've been going by this old post, and didn't know 80 was different.
All known 928 VIN sequences are listed in here:
https://rennlist.com/forums/928-foru...in-thread.html
Old 07-28-2009, 01:52 PM
  #38  
Jadz928
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So just to recap, this is a non-S that had spoiler added. Non-S brakes?
Old 07-28-2009, 03:47 PM
  #39  
danglerb
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Originally Posted by utjmac
That is interesting. he has a title that says it's an S, but it is Al DMV.
You could get title and plates for a donkey in AL.

I'm not saying any of the previous owners may have been "up to something", but it isn't uncommon for the "legend" of greatness to grow from owner to owner.
Old 07-28-2009, 04:49 PM
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utjmac
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Don't know what had been added. it had a rubber spoiler, and I couldn't identify S brakes versus normal, still learning these cars.

Lots of German references, the ac, spedometer and such. rear fog, turn light behind the front wheel, etc. I'd believe it's a Euro, but i guess the consensus is it's a non S Euro. theowner got a statement of autheticity fromporsche to acknowledge the VIN for AL DMV as I guess they didn't know of pre 17 digit vins? I didn't see if they stated it as an S model or not. the owner also gave me the engine serial number that says it's a 81 4.5 L.

if you give me some things to look for on the brakes, I'll try to identify them if it's helpful to anyone. thanks

john
Old 07-28-2009, 05:05 PM
  #41  
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There isn't any question what it started at since VIN explicitly says it was and still is ROW non S. It will always remain non S recardless of all possible changes including engine swap.

Since VIN is larger than 92A0800749 it did have S brakes from the factory. US cars got them at begining of '82 MY while ROW cars got them about middle of '80 MY as change point indicates.
Old 07-28-2009, 10:23 PM
  #42  
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Originally Posted by utjmac
I'd believe it's a Euro, but i guess the consensus is it's a non S Euro.

the owner also gave me the engine serial number that says it's a 81 4.5 L.
You may have missed the post above, but the M28/16 engine number is not only an 81 4.5L, but its a US-market 81 4.5L, which does not match the car's VIN, so the engine is not original to the car.

Given its a non-S, with a replacement engine of the cheapest kind, I'd say the car is one to walk away from given the rough interior too.

I'd also be suspicious of the vendor saying he's disclosing all - he's a mechanic, so may well have done the engine swap himself.
Old 07-28-2009, 11:52 PM
  #43  
utjmac
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Yep, thanks for all the help guys. I'm taking my potential 86 928S to get a PPI tomorrow. I hope that one turns out well. (Fingers crossed)
Old 07-29-2009, 05:34 AM
  #44  
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Originally Posted by utjmac
Yep, thanks for all the help guys. I'm taking my potential 86 928S to get a PPI tomorrow. I hope that one turns out well. (Fingers crossed)
Nice - didn't notice the post about the 86 before. With a good interior, and the fact that most no-starts are something simple like a relay, its definitely a good option. Odds are the no-start is one of these:

dead relay or blown fuse
dead fuel pump
faulty crank sensor (on top of the bell housing)

Having learned to do my own wrenching on my first 928, mechanicals don't scare me, but fixing up an interior is $$ whichever way you approach it.
Old 07-29-2009, 05:06 PM
  #45  
utjmac
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agreed. unfortunately, the 86 has been stored for quite a while. I'm taking it to a repai shop to drain and hopefully inspect it from top to bottom before purchase. I'm torn, because the previous owner spent $2500 getting everything services, including a new timing belt in 2003. he put maybe 500 miles on it here and there before going into storage. so, it's time for a 5 year service, but do you think it's ok to troubleshoot enough to get it running, do a ppi, then tackle the timing belt next week if I decide to purchase?

If not, this will be an extremely expensive PPI.

thanks for the help guys, I hope it's something minor and I'll be an owner soon.


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