filling auto trans after fluid flush and filter change, tips and tricks?
07-17-2009, 04:08 PM
#31
Drifting
Why not disclose the quick disconnect source? You really don't need it to fill from there.
You can just slip the hose over the end of the male quick disconnect. Only a shop that does this several times a week would want the QD, otherwise its an unnecessary expense. Personally, I'd rather fill from the reservoir on my 90' S4 even though my car has the QD, as its one less gasket to mess with and recheck for leaks.
Same for filling from the reservoir, you can just clamp a hose to the inlet so it doesn't fall out while pumping. No big deal!
You can just slip the hose over the end of the male quick disconnect. Only a shop that does this several times a week would want the QD, otherwise its an unnecessary expense. Personally, I'd rather fill from the reservoir on my 90' S4 even though my car has the QD, as its one less gasket to mess with and recheck for leaks.
Same for filling from the reservoir, you can just clamp a hose to the inlet so it doesn't fall out while pumping. No big deal!
07-17-2009, 05:17 PM
#32
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I gave the information to Mark at 928 Int'l and he is going to put together a kit to offer as an option to go along with his trans filter kits. The price should be very reasonable and will give you a "one stop shop" to get everything you need.
07-21-2009, 02:30 AM
#33
Nordschleife Master
Thread Starter
I got a chance to fool around under the car today and did a test run so to speak on filling the reservoir.
I havent drained the trans, and torque converter and replaced the gasket and filter, but i did find a way that i consider to be reasonable to get fluid into the reservoir and into the pan in a reasonable manner.
I pulled the right rear wheel and just use some clear tubing (about 4 feet) and a funnel and gave it a go.
I was going to use a lawnmower gas cap and fit a barbed fitting to it to make it easier but i just put the hose into the reservoir and poured the fluid in and with the oil catch under to clean up the mess i gave it a go. I didnt loose a single drop and i found 2 quarts went into the reservoir quite quickly and easily and without any mess. So no need in my opinion to find or make a special cap for filling. If i had a few of these cars i would love one of Tims tools. Mind you its suggested that the fluid be flushed every 30,000 miles so this should be considered a fairly regular service.
So for my dry run i got the kinks figured out. Tomorrow I will drain the pan i just topped off, drain the Torque converter, pull the pan and replace the filter and gasket, button it up and refill with the same method i used this afternoon.
All in all, its not that bad. I had figured i would give myself 4 hours for the learning curve but i think i can have the entire job of draining, filter change and refilling done in about 2. I often find that i like to over educate myself on some of these procedures i havent done before but in the end its quite simple and not to much of a hassle if you ask me. However i have yet to pull a 928 transmission pan, and have yet to pull a torque converter drain plug, but hey, how hard can it really be!
I havent drained the trans, and torque converter and replaced the gasket and filter, but i did find a way that i consider to be reasonable to get fluid into the reservoir and into the pan in a reasonable manner.
I pulled the right rear wheel and just use some clear tubing (about 4 feet) and a funnel and gave it a go.
I was going to use a lawnmower gas cap and fit a barbed fitting to it to make it easier but i just put the hose into the reservoir and poured the fluid in and with the oil catch under to clean up the mess i gave it a go. I didnt loose a single drop and i found 2 quarts went into the reservoir quite quickly and easily and without any mess. So no need in my opinion to find or make a special cap for filling. If i had a few of these cars i would love one of Tims tools. Mind you its suggested that the fluid be flushed every 30,000 miles so this should be considered a fairly regular service.
So for my dry run i got the kinks figured out. Tomorrow I will drain the pan i just topped off, drain the Torque converter, pull the pan and replace the filter and gasket, button it up and refill with the same method i used this afternoon.
All in all, its not that bad. I had figured i would give myself 4 hours for the learning curve but i think i can have the entire job of draining, filter change and refilling done in about 2. I often find that i like to over educate myself on some of these procedures i havent done before but in the end its quite simple and not to much of a hassle if you ask me. However i have yet to pull a 928 transmission pan, and have yet to pull a torque converter drain plug, but hey, how hard can it really be!
07-21-2009, 02:34 AM
#34
Nordschleife Master
Thread Starter
I also wanted to make a note about the different pan gaskets for the 928.
Apparently sometime in the 90's a new gasket was designed with a different part number ( i believe 11 instead of 10) which has a thicker gasket to prevent a problem with the previous gasket splitting and thus leaking shortly after installation.
I have this Meyle kit with filter and gasket but see no number that was mentioned in previous threads. However i can clearly see a "2008" marker on the gasket itself so i have to assume being that this is more than 10 years since the change was officially made and the previous gasket was i assume scrapped. I am going to guess that this is the correct gasket. Can anyone thats recently done this also confirm this that a date code of 2008 is the obvious, and most up to date gasket design?
Apparently sometime in the 90's a new gasket was designed with a different part number ( i believe 11 instead of 10) which has a thicker gasket to prevent a problem with the previous gasket splitting and thus leaking shortly after installation.
I have this Meyle kit with filter and gasket but see no number that was mentioned in previous threads. However i can clearly see a "2008" marker on the gasket itself so i have to assume being that this is more than 10 years since the change was officially made and the previous gasket was i assume scrapped. I am going to guess that this is the correct gasket. Can anyone thats recently done this also confirm this that a date code of 2008 is the obvious, and most up to date gasket design?
07-21-2009, 10:54 AM
#35
Team Owner
Ryan B4 you attempt to remove the pan remove the small hose from the side of the transmission, This hose is attached to the top of the reservoir, if you try to remove the hose from the reservoir you will usually snap it off then you will be looking for a new tank.
The hose may be kinda tight to reach with the muffler heat shields in the way, but a long screw driver will help pry it off the metal on the trans housing.
The Meyle filter/gasket sounds like the updated part.
For finding the drain plug on the TC add a small piece of cardboard to the grate so its just touching the TC housing, then turn the crank till the cardboard drops out ( in theory the TC drain plug should be aligned to the bottom when the engine is at TDC) this isnt always true.
For all of the worries with the filling aspect , I use a 4 or 5 qt container of Dextron3 and a hand pump that screws into the top of the bottle.
The other end of the hose also has a barb that keeps the hose in the tank
It will take about 5 mins to pump 8 qts , so you can make your choices , I prefer to keep things simple.
The hose may be kinda tight to reach with the muffler heat shields in the way, but a long screw driver will help pry it off the metal on the trans housing.
The Meyle filter/gasket sounds like the updated part.
For finding the drain plug on the TC add a small piece of cardboard to the grate so its just touching the TC housing, then turn the crank till the cardboard drops out ( in theory the TC drain plug should be aligned to the bottom when the engine is at TDC) this isnt always true.
For all of the worries with the filling aspect , I use a 4 or 5 qt container of Dextron3 and a hand pump that screws into the top of the bottle.
The other end of the hose also has a barb that keeps the hose in the tank
It will take about 5 mins to pump 8 qts , so you can make your choices , I prefer to keep things simple.
07-21-2009, 11:19 AM
#36
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I use a garden pesticide sprayer to do the job. Put the oil in and pump up to pressure. Remove the atomizer on the end so that it comes out in a stream.
Found that the flow was just enough that it would not overflow the dirt screen. So never had to worry about spills. The benefit is that the wand on the sprayer allows you to reach to the reservoir comfortably and it has a shut off valve.
Works like magic and was <15$
Found that the flow was just enough that it would not overflow the dirt screen. So never had to worry about spills. The benefit is that the wand on the sprayer allows you to reach to the reservoir comfortably and it has a shut off valve.
Works like magic and was <15$
07-21-2009, 02:00 PM
#37
Nordschleife Master
Thread Starter
Ryan B4 you attempt to remove the pan remove the small hose from the side of the transmission, This hose is attached to the top of the reservoir, if you try to remove the hose from the reservoir you will usually snap it off then you will be looking for a new tank.
The hose may be kinda tight to reach with the muffler heat shields in the way, but a long screw driver will help pry it off the metal on the trans housing.
The Meyle filter/gasket sounds like the updated part.
For finding the drain plug on the TC add a small piece of cardboard to the grate so its just touching the TC housing, then turn the crank till the cardboard drops out ( in theory the TC drain plug should be aligned to the bottom when the engine is at TDC) this isnt always true.
For all of the worries with the filling aspect , I use a 4 or 5 qt container of Dextron3 and a hand pump that screws into the top of the bottle.
The other end of the hose also has a barb that keeps the hose in the tank
It will take about 5 mins to pump 8 qts , so you can make your choices , I prefer to keep things simple.
The hose may be kinda tight to reach with the muffler heat shields in the way, but a long screw driver will help pry it off the metal on the trans housing.
The Meyle filter/gasket sounds like the updated part.
For finding the drain plug on the TC add a small piece of cardboard to the grate so its just touching the TC housing, then turn the crank till the cardboard drops out ( in theory the TC drain plug should be aligned to the bottom when the engine is at TDC) this isnt always true.
For all of the worries with the filling aspect , I use a 4 or 5 qt container of Dextron3 and a hand pump that screws into the top of the bottle.
The other end of the hose also has a barb that keeps the hose in the tank
It will take about 5 mins to pump 8 qts , so you can make your choices , I prefer to keep things simple.
First off i dont have any pump that will pump 8 quarts in 5 minutes, damn, the last one i used pumped 1 quart in 10 minutes when i filled the 5 speed transaxle. My gravity feed thing seems to work for me for now.
I like your idea on the cardboard to find the drain plug, nice
As for the hose you mention when removing the reservoir. I did notice the metal feed tube which goes from the reservoir to the pan which has what looks like the screw on connection. But your saying there is another hose which must be removed too? I assume its above this connection?
It was shown in some tech write up to remove the reservoir completely before removing the pan, this was my plan, but i have to assume if i do that, that any chance of damage as you suggest is removed? Is that correct, that if i can remove the reservoir BEFORE removing the pan that i shouldnt have any issues?
07-21-2009, 08:03 PM
#38
Rennlist Member
You do not need to remove the metal line. It and the reservoir come with the pan.
There is a little black rubber hose that returns fluid to the top of the reservoir. With a long handled pair of needlenose pliers it can be worked off of the searated nipple sticking up on the reservoir. It can be wiggled back the same way later.
Then, 6 bolts and pan is down. Did it Sunday night on an 86, I think its similar to what you have.
You could remove the reservoir first, I've done it, but if you can see and get a bite on the little hose, not sure if it matters.
There is a little black rubber hose that returns fluid to the top of the reservoir. With a long handled pair of needlenose pliers it can be worked off of the searated nipple sticking up on the reservoir. It can be wiggled back the same way later.
Then, 6 bolts and pan is down. Did it Sunday night on an 86, I think its similar to what you have.
You could remove the reservoir first, I've done it, but if you can see and get a bite on the little hose, not sure if it matters.
07-22-2009, 01:15 AM
#39
Nordschleife Master
Thread Starter
Did it today, thanks for the tips all.
I appear to have a leak coming from somewhere on the top of the transmission as the govenor above the pan is covered in grease. What could be causing the leak on the passenger side or top of the transmission itself close to where it bolts up to the diff? any ideas?
I appear to have a leak coming from somewhere on the top of the transmission as the govenor above the pan is covered in grease. What could be causing the leak on the passenger side or top of the transmission itself close to where it bolts up to the diff? any ideas?
07-22-2009, 11:15 AM
#41
Team Owner
there is a small drain hole IIRC its on the DS of the trans and is called the intermediate plate, this part holds the trans to the differential housing and if either one is leaking then it will let it leak out of this hole, to fix this you have to drop the rear Xmember and then remove the differential, trans stays in the car
