fuel pump runs when jumpered? SOLVED
#1
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Still tracking down this one stupid problem.
So if the fuel pump does run when jumpered (though I still can't start the car, probably battery is too low now), which direction should I be looking. Some posts suggest the LH relay could be bad. My fear is one of the computers could be dying.
So if the fuel pump does run when jumpered (though I still can't start the car, probably battery is too low now), which direction should I be looking. Some posts suggest the LH relay could be bad. My fear is one of the computers could be dying.
Last edited by Flint; 07-06-2009 at 12:36 PM.
#2
Team Owner
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usually the early cars dont have computer problems ( pre 87)
#3
Team Owner
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did you replace the fuel pump fuse and the ignition fuse
#4
Burning Brakes
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I generally start with all three critical relays (fuel pump, EZK, and LH) jumpered to confirm that the engine will run and then replace jumpers with relays until the problem appears.
If the engine doesn't start when all three are jumpered then your problem is elsewhere.
If the engine doesn't start when all three are jumpered then your problem is elsewhere.
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I had the same problem.... Before you start fidling around, jump the LH relay.
I don't know about the LH but the L you need a 3 way jump.
The jump is 30-87-87 = to 3-4-5 on the relay board I beleive
I don't know about the LH but the L you need a 3 way jump.
The jump is 30-87-87 = to 3-4-5 on the relay board I beleive
#7
Nordschleife Master
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your brains arent the ones that fail.
LH requires only the 87 and 30 to be bridged, and there are only 1 of each pin on the relay.
Replace the relays or even pull the covers off to see if they are activating.
However these cars really do need a good battery, with a good charge as if you crank the car and the voltage drops to below 9 Volts then I doubt the car will start, yet it will still crank.
LH requires only the 87 and 30 to be bridged, and there are only 1 of each pin on the relay.
Replace the relays or even pull the covers off to see if they are activating.
However these cars really do need a good battery, with a good charge as if you crank the car and the voltage drops to below 9 Volts then I doubt the car will start, yet it will still crank.
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#8
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Similar problem, first it would start w/ether, then when FPR jumpered, then not at all. Found corrosion on a ground; it didn't look bad, but definitely there. Problem solved. Make part of routine maint. Cheap fix.
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I can't find a separate ignition fuse. I cleaned the contacts and put a new fuse in for the fuel pump. I discovered in the process that someone before me had installed a much higher amperage fuse in that spot! I think 32 or something, they must have just been matching the colors!
#10
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Check your ground strap. I helped a guy who's car would crank but would not start. Long story short.... There was too much resistance in the ground strap. An easy way to check is to take a set of jumper cables and attached one lead to the negative post of the battery and the other end to the cross bar in the engine bay.
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Aha! It was the fuel injection relay! Now it starts every time! But I did do as many suggested regardless, cleaned up contacts, sanded down the negative battery strap contact till it was nice and shiny, few others. Now, finally, I can get back to my original goal of basic exterior restoration.
Thanks all!
Thanks all!