Flint

I'm having a no-start condition thanks to my fuel pump refusing to turn on. The pump itself does work when tested outside the car, but back in it won't run when the key is turned. A few people have had similar situations recently but I can't seem to find the threads. Does anyone have a checklist of where to go from here?

When I turn the key I get all lights and the engine cranks normally, it just does not fire. I've confirmed every which way that the fuel pump is just not turning on when installed.

So far, I've cleaned and replaced the fuse, replaced the relay and have previously replaced the Temp II sensor. A couple years ago the ignition switch was replaced too. I also have a new battery. Now I guess I have to just start cleaning more contacts and checking more voltages, I just don't know which are left.

Thanks!

Mrmerlin

try cranking the car in a different position than park, the ground wire for the neutral safety switch is under the rear quarter panel about 8 inches in front of the rear bulkhead and secured with a bundle of other ground wires to the floor

dr bob

When you jumperthe fuel pump relay, does the engine run? The fuel pump relay gets a signal from the ignition system, telling it that the motor is turning and it's OK to run. If the car runs with the relay jumpered, it's quite likely your ignition is OK, but there's still something blocking the pulses from getting to the relay.

Also-- Were you working on anything else on the car prior to this showing up? That might give a clue where to start.

Flint

No, the car was actually running perfectly fine before it died. I'd actually driven it 6 hours on a trip. I got no warning, suddenly all the lights came on and the engine just cut out. I tried swapping out the fuel pump and when I first put the new one in it did actually start and it ran perfectly for a few hours, only to die in exactly the same way. I haven't been able to try actually using a jumper on the relay, only switching it.

Someone in one of the posts I can't find said something about whether the tach jumps when it revs, and mine does. I just can't remember what that meant.

Ben

Since your car is an '84 Euro, then it should be an LH jetronic, right? It sounds like the crank position sensor could be shot, or the wiring associated with it. The plug connecting it to the engine loom commonly goes brittle with age and breaks apart. It should be secured to the rigid fuel pipes at the back of the engine, under the MAF - Its worth having a look at.

Ben

Sorry, double post - I only clicked post once too!

Flint

By the way, is there a part number for the Crank Position Sensor? I can't seem to find it in PET or on the main parts people.

Mrmerlin

PN 944 606 115 00 =impulse sender
BTW if the tach is jumping when you crank then its getting a signal from the CPS

Ben

I've got it down as 944 606 115 00

Flint

Okay, thought I'd read that.

dr bob

Try a jumper on the FP relay and see if it starts and runs with that. That will tell you on which side of the relay the problem lies.

From your trip, did you add gas to the tank prior to the fail-to-run?

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Tach moving generally means CPS is intact.

I don't have wiring diags for '84 Euro handy. I'll make an assumption that the LH is similar in external wiring to my LHA car, where the fuel pump power comes througha dedicated feeder from the battery. If that's true, disassemble, clean, reassemble, tighten and seal (with Vaseline) all the wire connections there at the positive terminal of the battery.

Flint

Starting new thread