Holbert Brake line conversion to SS Lines. Problem, I think solved.
06-30-2009, 01:51 PM
#16
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Thread Starter
Thats EXACTLY what im talking about. the fact that the top and bottoms can be swapped, kind of proves that what I did can work. never did we discuss swapping sides, only going front to rear or rotating the calipers around the rotor front side to rear side. if the parts (cross over tube and bleeders) can be swapped then turning the calipers upside down and bleading the inside part of the caliper at the cross over tube, will work.
mk
mk
The left and right calipers should not be swapped when ther are different size pistons. This applies to your S4 brakes. The pistons are staggered sizes so that the pad pressure and are consistent. If the calipers are swapped from front of rotor to rear of rotor, for instance, you would use the same caliper but move the crossover tube and bleed screws.
06-30-2009, 04:17 PM
#18
Under the Lift
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Mark:
I was going to suggest we replace that broken bleeder, but I did not have much luck doing this once. I could not extract the old bleeder, so I decided to drill it out. I've done this with other bolts. Drill until there is a thin shell left, then pick out the shell remnants. I could not pick out the bleeder remnants. They seemed welded to the threads in the caliper and I was afraid of doing more harm than good.
I was going to suggest we replace that broken bleeder, but I did not have much luck doing this once. I could not extract the old bleeder, so I decided to drill it out. I've done this with other bolts. Drill until there is a thin shell left, then pick out the shell remnants. I could not pick out the bleeder remnants. They seemed welded to the threads in the caliper and I was afraid of doing more harm than good.
06-30-2009, 05:34 PM
#19
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Thread Starter
Thanks Bill, but by the looks of the broken bleeder and how hard I was wrenching on it when it broke, i think we might find ourselves in a similar situation. better just to do the "rotate the caliper and bleed at the connector cross over line" technique. 
Thanks
Mark
Thanks
Mark
Mark:
I was going to suggest we replace that broken bleeder, but I did not have much luck doing this once. I could not extract the old bleeder, so I decided to drill it out. I've done this with other bolts. Drill until there is a thin shell left, then pick out the shell remnants. I could not pick out the bleeder remnants. They seemed welded to the threads in the caliper and I was afraid of doing more harm than good.
I was going to suggest we replace that broken bleeder, but I did not have much luck doing this once. I could not extract the old bleeder, so I decided to drill it out. I've done this with other bolts. Drill until there is a thin shell left, then pick out the shell remnants. I could not pick out the bleeder remnants. They seemed welded to the threads in the caliper and I was afraid of doing more harm than good.
06-30-2009, 07:29 PM
#20
Under the Lift
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Yep, that was my point. Unless somebody has a foolproof way of getting these snapped off bleeders out, leave it alone for now and shop aound for a good used caliper.
06-30-2009, 08:34 PM
#21
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Thread Starter
wise advice I would have to say!
so, until then, ill be flipping the caliper to let the air rise to the "new" top, and bleeding out the connector tubes when needed. As I mentioned, Ive had good luck racing over 130 race days bleeding one side only.
Thanks
mk
so, until then, ill be flipping the caliper to let the air rise to the "new" top, and bleeding out the connector tubes when needed. As I mentioned, Ive had good luck racing over 130 race days bleeding one side only.
Thanks
mk
06-30-2009, 09:15 PM
#22
You can also pump the pistons out to the limit on an affected caliper and then retract them to force the fluid and air out. I don't do this much anymore, but I have had those moments.
06-30-2009, 09:27 PM
#23
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Thread Starter
I kind of figured that much.
Probably why it has worked for so long as I'm always pushing those pistons back all the way with new pads. however, with air in the system on that broken side with new air introduced, it didnt work. thats where the upside down trick worked.
Probably why it has worked for so long as I'm always pushing those pistons back all the way with new pads. however, with air in the system on that broken side with new air introduced, it didnt work. thats where the upside down trick worked.
