UncleMaz

Thanks BB. I am covered on the manual. I could use an owner's manual copy. I am happy to pay for one.

Thanks for the words of encouragement.

I am trying to decide if I do a full top and front rebuild before I put it in or go through the energy to put it in as is (except for oil plugs, acc. belts, t-belt, vacuum lines, hoses). What say you?

I am also trying to figure out what I have and what I need. For example, I think I need a steering rack (or a rebuild/no turn situation) besides the many interior bits that will need replacing.

Sailmed

I'd throw a weekend BBQ with brain lubricant's going and have some folks that own them over, that will get a list of things that need doing together, and help teach you how to spend money wisely.

UncleMaz

I plan on throwing a BBQ, but Lucerne Valley is no place for the faint of heart in the summer - I don't want to make enemies here. Also, I have some basics to acquire. Brain lube is always on hand.

zoltan944

Your lucky Im a Vegas boy! Shade, fans and IV fluids is all you need!

karl ruiter

I would reuse your old motor mounts and put then money in your paint and interior piggy bank. New mounts are expensive and will fail again in 6 months. Unlike the later cars with hydraulic mounts you will not be able to tell they have seperated except by inspecting them.

UncleMaz

Okay, after reading some threads here and talking to some quality local people, this is my plan:

Follow all normal compression testing procedures, but hook a 12v source to the starter on the motor on the stand.
Perform a leak down test (been reading lots of good stuff on here/thanks). If the motor is in spec, my plan is to replace all belts, vacuum lines, old seals, WP and pop that puppy back in.

What do you think?

Also, should I start a separate thread? I thought I would make this thread my rebuild thread (pictures coming). TIA. Michael

danglerb

Most of the motors I have opened up have had bad or nasty looking anyway, head gaskets. With the motor already out, I would pull the heads, clean it up, check the cylinder bores, clean it up, check the head, maybe replace the guides, then button it up nice and hope it never has to come out again.

UncleMaz

Thanks Mike.

UncleMaz

Well, with the assistance of Zoltan944 (Sean) and Genikz (Chris), we did a leak down test on the M28/13 motor yesterday out at my desert place. The results were excellent: Plus or minus 2% across all cylinders.

I bought 4 gallons of the cheapest motor oil (Lubriguard 40-15 diesel truck oil) and filter that Autozone had (around $10 per). Last week I put a pint of Gunk engine flush and about the same of Marvel Mystery Lube (which I also used in the spark plug holes/thanks Danglerb for suggesting that I pour oil in before testing). Inspected the magnetic plug for shavings (none). Then, I turned the crank by hand. Turned as hoped. After the first flush, I changed the filter, refilled with the cheap oil, pulled the plugs, poured the MML in the spark plug holes and tested it with my spanking new HFT $35 leak down tester (actually, Chris manned the tester).

Once I start the motor and run it for a little bit, I will drain and refill with proper oil and a proper filter.

Unfortunately, we did not end up having a compression tester handy. So, that test will have to wait (or not).

The clutch discs are over the hump, but not bad enough to replace (budgetary decision) right now.

Since I don't know these cars, Sean was able to help me identify some changes that PO made. It was nice having his beautiful OB 1986 around to compare.

Sean looked over my wiring and fuse and relay situation. He said that it looks pretty stock and un-tampered with (except for the stereo wiring). The door panels have been monkeyed with to accommodate larger speakers . Also, somewhere along the string of owners, someone cut holes in the sunroof-less head liner to accommodate tweeters..

We could not find the option codes.

A couple of other items of note:

• AM short shift kit.
• 9 inch H4's
• Leather dash, console, glovebox, doors with french stitching (all fubar'd).

-

Sean was kind enough to offer help drop the motor in. So, after a belt change, that is my next move -- hopefully, within the month. I have also sourced a PS rack, as this one is shot (wheel does not move wheels) as well as some of the interior bits I need. Michael

smudaaar

Sounds like everything is going well so far. Just take your time have fun and drink a lot of beer!

UncleMaz

These two ****** barely made a dent in the case I had on hand

danglerb

I wouldn't worry about compression until its running.

Don't forget to take and post some pictures.

UncleMaz

Sean, hard at work.

danglerb

Nice looking car, he isn't drinking WD40 is he?

UncleMaz

The WD40 is for a top secret power-adder to Zoltan's car. I didn't drink any of it, but I am sure I inhaled my fair share.