Discolored windshield washer filler neck and reservoir
#1
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Discolored windshield washer filler neck and reservoir
Aside from buying new, has anyone come up with a solution to the discoloration of these plastic pieces? They look old, but when you add a new filler cap, then they really look old. I was thinking of painting the ww reservoir neck, but not sure if that would make things worse. Any ideas?
#2
Team Owner
Since your looking at it i would suggest that you fix it . Order a new inlet take the wheel and fender liner out and remove the tank.
Remove the metal collar on the new inlet by dipping it hot water, it slides out.
Remove the collar in the tank carefully it will probably chip out due to rust. throw a handfull of stones into the tank and few oz of simple green add a few oz of water and slosh this around till it looks clean. Rise and refit, also a good time to take the pump portions apart to clean them.
Put it all back together and dont super tighten the clamps for the transfer hose.
This will then make the washers have a fresh supply of washer fluid as opposed to rusty washer fluid , that can stain the hood and clog the pumps and squirters
Remove the metal collar on the new inlet by dipping it hot water, it slides out.
Remove the collar in the tank carefully it will probably chip out due to rust. throw a handfull of stones into the tank and few oz of simple green add a few oz of water and slosh this around till it looks clean. Rise and refit, also a good time to take the pump portions apart to clean them.
Put it all back together and dont super tighten the clamps for the transfer hose.
This will then make the washers have a fresh supply of washer fluid as opposed to rusty washer fluid , that can stain the hood and clog the pumps and squirters
#4
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Since your looking at it i would suggest that you fix it . Order a new inlet take the wheel and fender liner out and remove the tank.
Remove the metal collar on the new inlet by dipping it hot water, it slides out.
Remove the collar in the tank carefully it will probably chip out due to rust. throw a handfull of stones into the tank and few oz of simple green add a few oz of water and slosh this around till it looks clean. Rise and refit, also a good time to take the pump portions apart to clean them.
Put it all back together and dont super tighten the clamps for the transfer hose.
This will then make the washers have a fresh supply of washer fluid as opposed to rusty washer fluid , that can stain the hood and clog the pumps and squirters
Remove the metal collar on the new inlet by dipping it hot water, it slides out.
Remove the collar in the tank carefully it will probably chip out due to rust. throw a handfull of stones into the tank and few oz of simple green add a few oz of water and slosh this around till it looks clean. Rise and refit, also a good time to take the pump portions apart to clean them.
Put it all back together and dont super tighten the clamps for the transfer hose.
This will then make the washers have a fresh supply of washer fluid as opposed to rusty washer fluid , that can stain the hood and clog the pumps and squirters
Have you tried suctioning off the fluids in the line with a mityvac or similar to help remove the existing rusty water?
#5
Team Owner
the stones and SG are for removing the rusty crud that will be sitting in the bottom of the tank. If there was a good amount of rust in the tank it will probably be stained for life.
The washer inlet will change color due to heat not from rust except at the end where the metal collar is.
Since there are one way valves in the lines to the washers sucking them could damage them.
You might try putting in some compressed air to blow the remaining fluid out of the lines
The washer inlet will change color due to heat not from rust except at the end where the metal collar is.
Since there are one way valves in the lines to the washers sucking them could damage them.
You might try putting in some compressed air to blow the remaining fluid out of the lines
#6
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I did the gravel and Simple Green thing a few months ago, and while it looks better (clean) it still looks old. I may as well take a stab at the Krylon. I've read that someone from here (Rennlist) bought the overflow reservoir new, only to have it discolor in a few months time. If it comes out picture worthy I'll post.
#7
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I did the gravel and Simple Green thing a few months ago, and while it looks better (clean) it still looks old. I may as well take a stab at the Krylon. I've read that someone from here (Rennlist) bought the overflow reservoir new, only to have it discolor in a few months time. If it comes out picture worthy I'll post.
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#8
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Afshin,
I remember the post but not the details. I was under the impression that it was the heat, not rust, that causes the plastic to turn orange and look old. It sucks, because the plastic overflow tank in my old Ford Explorer looked like new when the car was 12 years old.
I'm referring to the parts that show - the overflow reservoir and the windshield washer filler neck. I can't paint the overflow reservoir without giving up the ability to see the coolant level, so I'm hesitant to paint just the filler neck, as I still have the same problem.
I remember the post but not the details. I was under the impression that it was the heat, not rust, that causes the plastic to turn orange and look old. It sucks, because the plastic overflow tank in my old Ford Explorer looked like new when the car was 12 years old.
I'm referring to the parts that show - the overflow reservoir and the windshield washer filler neck. I can't paint the overflow reservoir without giving up the ability to see the coolant level, so I'm hesitant to paint just the filler neck, as I still have the same problem.
#9
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Afshin,
I remember the post but not the details. I was under the impression that it was the heat, not rust, that causes the plastic to turn orange and look old. It sucks, because the plastic overflow tank in my old Ford Explorer looked like new when the car was 12 years old.
I'm referring to the parts that show - the overflow reservoir and the windshield washer filler neck. I can't paint the overflow reservoir without giving up the ability to see the coolant level, so I'm hesitant to paint just the filler neck, as I still have the same problem.
I remember the post but not the details. I was under the impression that it was the heat, not rust, that causes the plastic to turn orange and look old. It sucks, because the plastic overflow tank in my old Ford Explorer looked like new when the car was 12 years old.
I'm referring to the parts that show - the overflow reservoir and the windshield washer filler neck. I can't paint the overflow reservoir without giving up the ability to see the coolant level, so I'm hesitant to paint just the filler neck, as I still have the same problem.
#10
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My apologies for the confusion, I didn't realize you were referring to coolant reservoir and washer fluid seperately.
The yellowing is definitely due to heat. My dads 84 300D never had a problem with yellowing of the white plastic washer fluid reservoir but my 84 190E did after similar miles. Only explanation is that the diesel didn't generate much heat under the hood.
I know Dave C will be experimenting with a new coolant reservoir which will have the metal collars removed, this will give us all an idea of how long the tanks will stay white.
The yellowing is definitely due to heat. My dads 84 300D never had a problem with yellowing of the white plastic washer fluid reservoir but my 84 190E did after similar miles. Only explanation is that the diesel didn't generate much heat under the hood.
I know Dave C will be experimenting with a new coolant reservoir which will have the metal collars removed, this will give us all an idea of how long the tanks will stay white.
#11
Team Owner
Ahhh wait a minute Afshin. I was referring to removing the metal collars from the washer fill tube and the washer reservoir ONLY.
If the metal collars are removed from the coolant reservoir then the line will probably blow off once things get hot, or the plastic will deform and the line will blow off
If the metal collars are removed from the coolant reservoir then the line will probably blow off once things get hot, or the plastic will deform and the line will blow off
#12
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I've only pulled the metal from the washer filler neck. I haven't messed with the coolant tank.
#13
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After typing about the coolant reservoir I started thinking to myself, wouldn't support be requried to insure the connection doesn't colapse due to the additional pressure needed at the clamp?
I think I'll sit this one out, I can't seem to get my facts straight.
I think I'll sit this one out, I can't seem to get my facts straight.