tveltman

Do you have a set of bolt extractors?

you can try penetrating oil on the broken ones, then drill a pilot hole into the bolt and drive the extractor into it, then reverse it out. If you get a set of the extractors, they will come with more specific instructions, that's just the general idea.

6mil928

Are you talking easy outs?

Mrmerlin

Yep as WICruiser said there is a good chance that pulling off the manifold is the only way to fix this properly, the gasket is probably toast and just reclamping the manifold to the head isnt going to be the best way.
That said get a small wire brush and some Kroil clean off the remaining bolts with the brush then spray them down, the rest of the nutz should come off

SeanR

Jason, pull the engine, much easier.

I say this because it gives you an excuse for me to come up and get my desktop.

Seriously though, if you can't get the manifolds off, be really careful. You won't have an eye on bolt sight when you start drilling. That's the reason I said I'd take the head off. You won't have to take the exhaust off completely. There won't be that much else to do while you are in there, you've already done the TB/WP, good time to replace the typical leaking cam tower gaskets/front and rear cam seals. Besides, if you go that route, everything will be good for another 200k since you actually take care of the car.

It can be done from underneath the car, but it will not be fun.

Wear safety glasses.

6mil928

Sean you can come up any time you want it doesn't take a engine pull. I can give you a tour of the towns one tree and the sand dunes

86'928S MeteorGrey

There's no pole choice for "remove engine from car and R&R all exhaust studs on an engine stand."

If it were me I'd pull the engine to do the repair, and also clean the engine compartment, replace the MM and fuel lines if needed. And then, and then, and then...

It can be done in car, but I have learned to avoid frustration.

Good luck with whichever route you choose.

tveltman

Yes, I was talking about easy-outs. You can get them in large sizes, and if you're going to drill them out anyway (in or out of the engine bay), you'll still want to drill a pilot hole, so you won't lose anything by trying, and you might make it easier on yourself.

Sailmed

+1
BTDT!
It is far easier to pull the engine and do the work on the engine stand - and end up with a clean engine compartment WYAI.

blown 87

And if you ever try BG products "In Force" you will have finally used a great penetrating oil, not kidding, I have tried almost every penetrating oil on the market, it is hands down the best.

You buy a bottle of it and if you think it is not better I will pay for the bottle.

http://www.bgprod.com/products/aerosol.html

Oh, and pull the engine, weld some nuts on the broken ones and back them out.

6mil928

I agree that pulling the motor would be the best solution. Problem is with all the other things that are going to break in the process. The cost is also high doing all the WYAI stuff not to mention the time to make the motor shine. With the OCIC happening very soon I just can't break the car for a long period. I'll also have to come up with the cash for everything much faster than being able to take my time and do everything right. I agree the motor is coming out at some point it's just a bad time to do it right now. I would be rushed and that's not the way I want to do the job.

6mil928

Ok here's the update. Started on the bolt today. Tried to drill it out with the exhaust manifold installed and leaving the exhaust hooked up. It was too much of a hassle. I disconnected the exhaust and pulled the manifold. Much more room to work with and I can see what I'm doing. Got the hole drilled just got to finish it up with a tap and maybe a new thread insert. Still gotta work the rest of it out. It's going pretty well I think. Here's a couple of pics. Jason

123quattro

Good luck. I did this job on my old heads. It was a PITA. I had the new ones fixed at the machine shop. $40/broken stud.

LT Texan

Still working thru my first gallon, $34 I think.

But NOTHING can match the miracle of acetone and power steering fluid.

btw, yank that engine before you slip and drill into aluminium.

Fogey1

Wally Posted about that:

https://rennlist.com/forums/928-foru...ating-oil.html
Penetrating Oil

One of the threads recently posted some info on penetrating oil performance. Here is a slight correction to that info...

Machinist's Workshop V20 number 2, April/May 007, page 35
Article: “Testing Penetrating oils”
This reports a test of penetrating oils where they measured the force required to loosen rusty test devices. The details reported here were validated by the original article author. He also added some details on the methods.
You must buy the issue if you want to see how they did the test. The back issue is available for purchase.
The table below extracts the results table The lower the number of pounds the better. Interesting that a simple mix of acetone and power steering fluid (PSF) works the best!

Penetrating oil Average load Price per fluid ounce
None 516 pounds
WD-40 238 pounds $0.25
PB Blaster 214 pounds $0.35
Liquid Wrench 127 pounds $0.21
Kano Kroil 106 pounds $0.75
PSF-Acetone mix 53 pounds $0.10 (50/50 mix)

Notes from original article author:
1) These are loads required to free the test piece after 8 hours of immersion in penetrating oil. This is probably not representative of a quick squirt just before a wrench is applied.
2) The original article states ATF was used in the DIY mix. It was actually PSF. I corrected the table to reflect this.

© Copyright 8 February 2008, 63Avanti@sterkel.org
Permission to print and post on the internet in this form received from the author
8 February 2008.

As a side note - I used the ATF/acetone mix to free a siezed steering cable on my wife's Bullet bass boat - worked a treat, as our UK friends would say!

I used a short section of hose, two clamps and a tire valve to force the mix thru the 16' Morse cable. It took ten minutes at 60 psi to get the first drops thru. Ten minues later, I could move the cable with two fingers.
__________________
Wally Plumley

6mil928

Ok guys got it drilled out tapped and new threaded insert installed. Got the new stud installed. Hopefully the angle is close enough to get the manifold on. Looks pretty good. Sorry no pics did it fast this evening before I had to get to a clients house. I do need some help though. I need a picture of a stock exhaust or at least an exhaust with all the stock hangers installed. Mine only has one hanger right before the transmission on the drivers side. I also have one where the pumpkin used to be. The rest of my pipe hangs from the exhaust manifold and I know there is more support needed. I've heard that the reason the back exhaust bolts break off is because of the front support not being installed. Guess what both my back exhaust bolts are broke off. Who woulda guessed.