While I can predict what the opinions will be, I'll still ask. My 88 S4 5 speed timing belt warning light has been coming on with heavy acceleration. It was replaced in 2006. I had the belt checked a month ago, was told that the tension was good, belt looked new, and the gears looked fine. However, I'm still worried.

I suppose my options are to 1) replace the belt, 2) have the Porken tensioner installed (with new belt, I would assume), or 3) put my head in the sand and hope the sensor is overly sensitive. I'd appreciate any input. Thanks.

 

It's not uncommon for the warning system wires to become loose or be touching where they shouldn't be. Check that out and it's possible that the warning will go away.

They are located on the front cover, and you can access the internal parts by taking the passenger side cover off.

 

Also, it the tension warning system is working properly, check to be sure the tension is adjusted to the tighter end of the spec. Sometimes a belt tensioned to the lower end of the spec will cause the belt to flutter under acceleration and trigger the light.

 

This is a test of how much faith you have in the shop that is telling you it is OK. First question is how many miles since the installation and is it time for the 1,500 re-tensioning? Second, if it slips a tooth or two under heavy acceleration you will likely notice poor performance, no harm done. If something worse happens, in either question will they be responsible for correcting the problem? Obviously the catastrophic option is where the real test comes and no one wants to go there.

What tool are they using to set the belt?

 

I just wanted to follow through with my original post. The timing belt warning light seemed to come on more frequently. I decided to get the Porken tensioner, but ran it through Roger first. He felt that replacing the belt was a waste at this point, instead recommending first checking the oil in the tensioner, a common source for false warnings, and second retensioning. I had these done, and problem solved.

In 2 years, I'll definitely change to the Porken when I replace the TB.

Many thanks to Roger. Couldn't find a more generous, friendly resource. He's won my loyalty.

 

Depending on your budget I'd pick up the porktensioner parts and stash them in the garage in case something else breaks.

 

I suspect that the seal is gone and the oil that was put in has leaked out. This was my issue also before installing the porkensioner on my car. My brother-in-law had the same problem with a new belt and topped up the tensioner with Lucas Oil Additive (Heavy Duty) found at most auto stores. In 3 years he did not get the light to return and the annual checks with my kempf tool verifies that the tension is correct on his car.

 

Ditto - I was able to find all three tensioner components on the web for under $100 (I got a nice score on the tensioner itself on eBay for $35... search the web for the PN's). Take your time and save up for the WP and PK bracket as fun-money allows. Congrats on ensuring your valves stay straight!

 

If, for some reason it comes down to it, you can keep a low mile timing belt, but replace the factory tensioner system with a PKsn'r, without removing the harmonic balancer. (Once the PS/Alt assembly is unbolted, the center timing belt cover can be slid over the balancer and pulleys.) Replace the belt on the normal schedule. (The Audi parts are more than good for 1.5 928 belt change intervals.)