Cruuzin

Help!!! I bought a 1981 928 knowing it needed a new timing belt, I have replaced it and I can't get it started. The PO raped the relays and tried screwdrivers in the ignition switch. I have the key but it won't go in. The PO said he had it hotwired. There is a button swith to turn the engine over. I think he pulled the wires off the ignition switch and crossed them over but I can't find it. In the relay box there are some relays missing the covers and I am not sure if all relays are even there. I was hoping to at least hear the motor run and check out the tranny.(auto) Is there a fellow enthusiast around Sacramento that would/could come up to Grass Valley to look at my car for me and tell me what she needs to get running?

hacker-pschorr

Do you have a brother in the Chicago area?

robot808

Cruuzin

No brother back east

SharkSkin

Why don't you start by reversing all of the half-assed BS that has been done, put good used relays in there and start from that point? 928 International can sell you an ignition switch and set it up to match your other locks if you give them the key.

I'm planning to be in GV over Father's day weekend, will have to see what all is planned before I can commit to breaking away. What part of GV are you in? Hopefully not down some 1/2 mile rutted/washed out driveway.

dr bob

I'll pop a few more basic questions and suggestions--

-- Do you hae a set of workshop manuals with the wiring diagrams? If not, get in touch with Roger at 928rus, a site sponsor, and get the whole set on CD. The wiring diagrams are an essential tool i sorting the PO's handiwork an restoring original functionality.

-- Do you have the original relay diagram? It was included with the car, usually attached to the cover over the electrical panel. If it isn't there, you can download a copy from the www.928GT.com website. That's Dave Roberts, another site sponsor, and his crew who make that available. Follow the tips liks on the left side of the page and you'll find PDF's of the diagrams. From that you'll find out which relays were actually installed on your car and which sockets are supposed to be empty.

-- Congrats on doing the timing belt. That's a serious intro to 928 wrenching, kind of a right of passage in some societies. The belt project includes the disconnecting and reconnecting the front main engine wiring harness. The big connector on the efnder edge carries current to stuff on the front and lower left side of the engine (left is drivers side on US cars...) including the alternator and the starter solenoid circuits. That connector typically gets rain and car-wash water in it over time, so it's usually worth the effort to carefully clean the connection pins and sockets to make sure all that stuff has a chance to work.

-- There are several ground points in the engine bay that deserve cleaning. There's a diagram of locations in the WSM electrical pages, including 3 dimension coordinate diagrams. Carefully remove the little bolts. clean and buff the spade terminals and the body contact area to make sre there's a solid ground available at each. best to have the battery disconnected while doing this, of course.

-- There's a big ground braid that ties the chassis to the engine itself. Right side frame rail to the side of the engine, accessible only from under the car. At minimum, clean the connection points and the cable. If there's any obvious corrosion in the braid, you'll want to start the search for a replacement. Vibration and flex is a longer-term killer of regular copper cable, so get an original piece or a serious braided cable replacement. It will be carrying a few hundred amps during cranking, so wimpy solutions won't cut it.

928 International will be your favorite friend for a while. Lots of very specific knowledge of your car and how it's assembled, what it needs, etc. They will be able to help you with your key and ignition switch issues, supply relays and other parts. Remember that the ignition lock and the electrical ignition switch are separate pieces. Tom will give you the pertinent info when you call.

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Do everything you can to get the car as close to original electrically as possible if you can. Way too many cars are butchered by owners trying to shortcut and save a dollar, only later you find out that every shortcut dollar 'saved' will cost you many times that amount, plus a load of frustration that's priceless. Invest well now and enjoy the ride!

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Invest the few dollars in Rennlist membership. It will pay you back amost immediately as you sort your new car.

linderpat

****** II

I'd try to get my money back. This car sounds like an electrical nightmare that may be impossible for you to unwind if you do not have a good sense of how to work on the elctrical issues. You'll need the work shop manuals and the elctrical diagrams. If you have to pay someone to fix this, you'll be broke in a heartbeat.

Cruuzin

SharkSkin; I am am almost at the end of Brunswick Rd. where it turns into the hwy. going to Colfax. The road to my place is very smooth gravel and only about 100 yards long

SharkSkin

I can't commit right now -- too much up in the air. One thing you might consider is removing the electrical portion from the back of the ignition switch and just activating that with a screwdriver. It's too bad that someone didn't think of that before ripping into things...

Also, Bob has some very sage advice above.