SharkTuner Mk 2
#346
Race Car
I'm running 6.0.13 in Win7 with no problems. You need to remember that Windows 7 has stricter security settings for folders under Program Files, etc. The files you save, including .ini files should be placed in a folder in your user's My Documents folder.
Dan
'91 928GT S/C 475hp/460lb.ft
Dan
'91 928GT S/C 475hp/460lb.ft
#348
Nordschleife Master
I'm running 6.0.13 in Win7 with no problems. You need to remember that Windows 7 has stricter security settings for folders under Program Files, etc. The files you save, including .ini files should be placed in a folder in your user's My Documents folder.
Dan
'91 928GT S/C 475hp/460lb.ft
Dan
'91 928GT S/C 475hp/460lb.ft
Whatever I save where the software prompts me to pick the name and location I save into my user directory. It's the install package's and the software's responsiblity to put the files that I'm not told about in the right place.
Once I got over the Internet Explorer 8 issues, there have been no problems.
I do have a problem that my EZK load is almost always 100% but that's probably not related to Windows 7... ;-)
#349
Race Car
Hey, I had that load problem too. My understanding is that John can give you custom software to set the load range wherever is best for the car.
Dan
'91 928GT S/C 475hp/460lb.ft
Dan
'91 928GT S/C 475hp/460lb.ft
#350
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
ST2 PRICE INCREASE : INTRODUCTORY PRICE ENDS NOVEMBER 30th.
The introductory price of $920 USD price for ST2 with leads and PEMs will end for all orders placed after 30th November. The price after that date will be $990 USD or equivalent in your local currency. Higher component prices and currency movements have forced this increase.
Treat yourself to an early Christmas present before the price increase !
The introductory price of $920 USD price for ST2 with leads and PEMs will end for all orders placed after 30th November. The price after that date will be $990 USD or equivalent in your local currency. Higher component prices and currency movements have forced this increase.
Treat yourself to an early Christmas present before the price increase !
#351
Nordschleife Master
Has anyone reverse engineered exactly what the "acceleration enrichment" parameters in LH do?
Let's assume that the car is fully warmed up and we are in the rightmost cell of acceleration enrichment temperature map. This gives us the following parameters as displayed by the ST2 GUI:
1. Acceleration enrichment base setting
2. First pulse enrichment
3. Second pulse enrichment
4. Third pulse enrichment
5. Fourth pulse enrichment
6. Enrichment sustain
7. Acceleration enrichment at 167+ F
Has anyone reverse engineered the formula by which these parameters and the LH inputs signals map to the injector pulse width? Is the algorithm in LH some adaptation of the X-Tau algorithm that was published a couple of years earlier than LH was made? Or is it some other algorithm?
I know there are a number of people working to reverse engineer the LH. How exactly do the acceleration enrichment parameters work?
Let's assume that the car is fully warmed up and we are in the rightmost cell of acceleration enrichment temperature map. This gives us the following parameters as displayed by the ST2 GUI:
1. Acceleration enrichment base setting
2. First pulse enrichment
3. Second pulse enrichment
4. Third pulse enrichment
5. Fourth pulse enrichment
6. Enrichment sustain
7. Acceleration enrichment at 167+ F
Has anyone reverse engineered the formula by which these parameters and the LH inputs signals map to the injector pulse width? Is the algorithm in LH some adaptation of the X-Tau algorithm that was published a couple of years earlier than LH was made? Or is it some other algorithm?
I know there are a number of people working to reverse engineer the LH. How exactly do the acceleration enrichment parameters work?
#352
Nordschleife Master
What's the best way to deal with the CO Pot on a non-cat car for Sharktuning?
I know all the US guys will say disable the CO Pot - but thats because they have no choice when tuning as they don't have one
So.. should I:
a) disable the CO Pot in the settings, shark tune the non-cat base map, then re-enable the CO Pot and adjust it to calibrate my MAF at idle to factory spec. of 1% CO?
b) Before I start tuning, adjust my CO pot to calibrate my MAF at idle to 1% CO on stock base map, and then just leave the pot enabled while tuning the non-cat base map?
The car is stock again currently - so option b is still viable, although once the car is non-stock and stuff like exhaust and cams are changed, I suspect option b becomes problematic and tuning against a mid-range default value may make more sense?
I know all the US guys will say disable the CO Pot - but thats because they have no choice when tuning as they don't have one
So.. should I:
a) disable the CO Pot in the settings, shark tune the non-cat base map, then re-enable the CO Pot and adjust it to calibrate my MAF at idle to factory spec. of 1% CO?
b) Before I start tuning, adjust my CO pot to calibrate my MAF at idle to 1% CO on stock base map, and then just leave the pot enabled while tuning the non-cat base map?
The car is stock again currently - so option b is still viable, although once the car is non-stock and stuff like exhaust and cams are changed, I suspect option b becomes problematic and tuning against a mid-range default value may make more sense?
#353
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Hi Hilton
Definitely option b) on all occasions. Also, when you modify the exhaust/cams etc it is perfectly possible to obtain a good tune while in non-cat mode. Non cat mode also gives you much more freedom to set the AFR across the load/rpm range than when it cat mode.
The Sharkplotter makes this easy.
Definitely option b) on all occasions. Also, when you modify the exhaust/cams etc it is perfectly possible to obtain a good tune while in non-cat mode. Non cat mode also gives you much more freedom to set the AFR across the load/rpm range than when it cat mode.
The Sharkplotter makes this easy.
#354
Nordschleife Master
Hi Hilton
Definitely option b) on all occasions. Also, when you modify the exhaust/cams etc it is perfectly possible to obtain a good tune while in non-cat mode. Non cat mode also gives you much more freedom to set the AFR across the load/rpm range than when it cat mode.
The Sharkplotter makes this easy.
Definitely option b) on all occasions. Also, when you modify the exhaust/cams etc it is perfectly possible to obtain a good tune while in non-cat mode. Non cat mode also gives you much more freedom to set the AFR across the load/rpm range than when it cat mode.
The Sharkplotter makes this easy.
So I guess the assumption is that before modifying the engine, the car must have a properly functioning (full voltage range) MAF and have the potentiometer set correctly for idle mixture (and hence MAF signal) in the engine's base pre-modified condition? Thus the resistance of the potentiometer remains constant before and after the modifications, allowing for the map to be "centered" around a baseline which compensates for the age of that particular MAF?
The concern I have is avoiding unnecessary drift in the potentiometer value - I'd like to ensure for a given modified and sharktuned non-cat car, if in future a brand-new MAF is inserted, setting the potentiometer to 382ohms would give 1% CO.
This isn't as much an issue for my own car, as I can always re-tune it if my MAF ages or I need to replace it. However for others' cars, I'd like to make sure I'm not leaving them with a possible future MAF calibration issue (at least one other local with a non-cat car has a set of Colin's cams and we will be applying my ST to his car).
edit: I'm aware that the CO pot doesn't directly affect the MAF load signal, but IIRC, it does affect how much fuel is added (or subtracted) to the base map value by the LH at any cell, which gives a similar net effect of compensating for the tendency of a MAF to get leaner with age?
Last edited by Hilton; 11-11-2012 at 05:58 AM.
#355
Rennlist Member
Hi Hilton
Definitely option b) on all occasions. Also, when you modify the exhaust/cams etc it is perfectly possible to obtain a good tune while in non-cat mode. Non cat mode also gives you much more freedom to set the AFR across the load/rpm range than when it cat mode.
The Sharkplotter makes this easy.
Definitely option b) on all occasions. Also, when you modify the exhaust/cams etc it is perfectly possible to obtain a good tune while in non-cat mode. Non cat mode also gives you much more freedom to set the AFR across the load/rpm range than when it cat mode.
The Sharkplotter makes this easy.
I have the CO pot fitted as I run open loop- I ticked the disable box given I am sharktuning and try to set the tickover at AFR 14.7.
Interestingly, it seems to me that the engine ticks over a noticeably smoother at AFR 14 when warm. I set all the cells around the tick over operating point to the same adjustment setting- seems to dampen the cursor from bobbing around. I kind of figured that with the Shark tuning capability the CO pot was irrelevant, indeed maybe a hindrance as it is applying a correction factor of its own but maybe I have it wrong.
Regards
Fred
#356
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Before tuning any non cat car, set the exhaust idle A/F to 14:1 With a WBO2 in place for tuning that is simple, using the Sharktuner just to monitor the A/F..
You just can't trust MAF calibration from some suppliers. Genuine Bosch exchange MAFs are all over the place. They seem to have lost the skill to do the job.
My MAFs are closely calibrated, but to a CO pot setting of 300 ohms.
You just can't trust MAF calibration from some suppliers. Genuine Bosch exchange MAFs are all over the place. They seem to have lost the skill to do the job.
My MAFs are closely calibrated, but to a CO pot setting of 300 ohms.
Thanks John for the reply.
So I guess the assumption is that before modifying the engine, the car must have a properly functioning (full voltage range) MAF and have the potentiometer set correctly for idle mixture (and hence MAF signal) in the engine's base pre-modified condition? Thus the resistance of the potentiometer remains constant before and after the modifications, allowing for the map to be "centered" around a baseline which compensates for the age of that particular MAF?
The concern I have is avoiding unnecessary drift in the potentiometer value - I'd like to ensure for a given modified and sharktuned non-cat car, if in future a brand-new MAF is inserted, setting the potentiometer to 382ohms would give 1% CO.
This isn't as much an issue for my own car, as I can always re-tune it if my MAF ages or I need to replace it. However for others' cars, I'd like to make sure I'm not leaving them with a possible future MAF calibration issue (at least one other local with a non-cat car has a set of Colin's cams and we will be applying my ST to his car).
edit: I'm aware that the CO pot doesn't directly affect the MAF load signal, but IIRC, it does affect how much fuel is added (or subtracted) to the base map value by the LH at any cell, which gives a similar net effect of compensating for the tendency of a MAF to get leaner with age?
So I guess the assumption is that before modifying the engine, the car must have a properly functioning (full voltage range) MAF and have the potentiometer set correctly for idle mixture (and hence MAF signal) in the engine's base pre-modified condition? Thus the resistance of the potentiometer remains constant before and after the modifications, allowing for the map to be "centered" around a baseline which compensates for the age of that particular MAF?
The concern I have is avoiding unnecessary drift in the potentiometer value - I'd like to ensure for a given modified and sharktuned non-cat car, if in future a brand-new MAF is inserted, setting the potentiometer to 382ohms would give 1% CO.
This isn't as much an issue for my own car, as I can always re-tune it if my MAF ages or I need to replace it. However for others' cars, I'd like to make sure I'm not leaving them with a possible future MAF calibration issue (at least one other local with a non-cat car has a set of Colin's cams and we will be applying my ST to his car).
edit: I'm aware that the CO pot doesn't directly affect the MAF load signal, but IIRC, it does affect how much fuel is added (or subtracted) to the base map value by the LH at any cell, which gives a similar net effect of compensating for the tendency of a MAF to get leaner with age?
#357
Three Wheelin'
ST2 PRICE INCREASE : INTRODUCTORY PRICE ENDS NOVEMBER 30th.
The introductory price of $920 USD price for ST2 with leads and PEMs will end for all orders placed after 30th November. The price after that date will be $990 USD or equivalent in your local currency. Higher component prices and currency movements have forced this increase.
Treat yourself to an early Christmas present before the price increase !
The introductory price of $920 USD price for ST2 with leads and PEMs will end for all orders placed after 30th November. The price after that date will be $990 USD or equivalent in your local currency. Higher component prices and currency movements have forced this increase.
Treat yourself to an early Christmas present before the price increase !
#359
Supercharged
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Location: Back in Michigan - Full time!
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Got a question since this topic is on the front page.
Last week I went to help a friend diagnose his 91 S4. I installed my spare set of brains that have PEMs, and the STer could only find the EZK. I tried swapping out the LH relay and it didn't make any difference. The car ran (sort of - idle switch was being a pain) so the LH was working, but I couldn't connect to it via the STer Mk2. Any ideas where to look?
Last week I went to help a friend diagnose his 91 S4. I installed my spare set of brains that have PEMs, and the STer could only find the EZK. I tried swapping out the LH relay and it didn't make any difference. The car ran (sort of - idle switch was being a pain) so the LH was working, but I couldn't connect to it via the STer Mk2. Any ideas where to look?