Kevin in Atlanta

Well, I already bought 4 6.5's. Is it really important to up size the diodes?

Alan

They should be OK.

Kevin in Atlanta

Here's where I am at with the installation.

Unused wires are bundled to the left of the alarm unit.

Jumpered 30 and 86 at the relay to simplify the wiring.
Split the parking light wiring at the connector and add the diodes just out of view in the bottom right corner.

Question for Alan: Are rectifiers bi-directional? (don't ask)

Alan

No they are uni-directional - the end with the white ring is the negative end - thats the end with the point of the triangle and the bar on the circuits diagrams.

Alan

Kevin in Atlanta

I have the arm / disarm and hatch wires to connect.

From Alan:
Connector II pin 1 Activate/Closed = Arm/Lock - BROWN/RED STRIPE
Connector II pin 2 Deactivate/Open = Disarm/Unlock - BROWN/GREEN STRIPE
Connector II pin 4 Tailgate Lock(eh!) = Hatch Disarm - BLUE/BROWN STRIPE

Connector I Pin 8 Turn Signal Left = Left Turn Signal - BLACK/WHITE STRIPE
Connector I Pin 9 Turn Signal Right = Right Turn Signal - BLACK/GREEN STRIPE
Connector I Pin 10 Horn = Horn - RED/WHITE STRIPE
Connector I Pin 1 Term. 30 = +12v battery power (30)
Connector I Pin 2 Term. 31 = Ground (Gnd)
[Connector I Pin 6 Term. 15 = Ignition]

Alan

So what is the question?

Alan

Kevin in Atlanta

No questions as of now. Reviewing the schematics. All the wires are identified. On to the hatch release, hatch motor wiring.

Kevin in Atlanta

Alan, The wiring schematic you provided for the horn differs from the Commando.

Yours: 30/86 together to a 12v source
85 to the horn on the KE
87 to the alarm unit

Commando: 30 to the 12v source
87 to the horn
86 to the alarm unit
85 to the 12v on the alarm unit
Diode between 85 and 86.

And there are similar differences between Commando and your trunk schematic.

I used yours and the keyless entry does not work.

Which version takes precedence?

Alan

Ithink you must have the commando wrong because you listed no connection to 85 and 2 to 86 - what does 85 connect to.

When you say KE does not work what do you mean - this just relates to the hatch and horn right? Those shouldn't affect basic lock/arm / unlock/disarm...

If those don't work fix that first...

You will need to configure a negative output on the horn for my schematic - if it only offers positive then you will need to connect 85 to ground and 86 to the horn output instead. I actually thought your KE might have had the ability to drive the horn direct ? check that ?

My schematic also assumed negative outputs for the hatch also - I believe those were the only options on my unit some may be the opposite or programmable.

The diode is a protection device - these are not usually needed but it will do no harm to add them. They must be reverse biassed under all normal conditions and connected between the coil connection 85 & 86. By convention 86 should always be the more positive coil terminal so if that is followed - the diode should be negative to 86 and positive to 85.

Alan

Kevin in Atlanta

Sorry, I edited my earlier response.

I click the buttons and I hear nothing. I confirmed 12v to the unit and to the ground.

Missing something obvious like programming the transmitters.

Kevin in Atlanta

As soon as I connected the valet switch the keyless entry started working. Woohoo.

I need to review the horn wiring because I am only getting the turn signal lights to work right now. But this is amazing progress.

Thanks Alan.

Alan

I added some notes below ...

The wiring schematic you provided for the horn differs from the Commando.

Yours: 30/86 together to a 12v source
85 to the horn (output) on the KE
87 to the (horn connection on the) alarm unit

Commando: 30 to the 12v source (same as mine above)
87 to the horn (connection on the alarm unit - same as mine above)
86 to the alarm unit (this must go to the KE surely? same as my 85)
85 to the 12v on the alarm unit (same as my 86)
Diode between 85 and 86.

So I think everything is probably the same except they have swapped 85 & 86 - this goes against regular usage convention - some relays can have built in protection diodes - and using it this way will blow them up)
And there are similar differences between Commando and your trunk schematic.

I used yours and the keyless entry does not work.

Which version takes precedence?

Obviously I'd use mine - they are botching it a bit - but both are basically functionally equivalent.

Again - get the basic module working before you worry about the relay

Alan

Kevin in Atlanta

Thanks for your patience. The lock unlock works flawlessly. I need to review the horn wiring first. I suspect I don't have that quite right. Again, thanks. I am having fun now!

dprantl

Told ya it would be easy. The hardest part is overcoming the anticipation and just doing it.

Dan
'91 928GT S/C 475hp/460lb.ft

Alan

Good - just keep adding features one at a time...

Alan