veeery interesting

 

This is what I put together. I put copper scrubbers in between the two top rows. This is on my boosted car.

Ken

 

So, being naive in this area, I have no concept of how much it would take to install one of these. Is this something that can be put in relatively easily or is there a lot of tear-down involved?

 

Dan:

Two ways to get at the oil filler neck base where this baffle needs to be installed:
- Remove the intake manifold (this requires removal of the injector rails and throttle quadrant)
- Remove the waterbridge
I think that latter is easier. If the intake has already been refurb'd, then do the waterbridge. If it hasn't, then do the intake. If neither have, do both.

 

Thanks Bill; yeah both my intake and waterbridge need to be done so... I'm not sure I'm ready to take on the intake R&R although Dwayne's pictorial almost has me thinking I can do it. Maybe I'll go the waterbridge route while I'm contemplating the intake job. It might be a good confidence builder?

 

Do it all at once. Beer chilled, friends giving advice, etc. Plus you need another reason to dash over to Dave and Jeannie's place for all the project parts.

One of these baffles should be part of any intake refurb project. I drive like an old white-haired guy and use no oil between changes, but somehow there's still a little in the intake. It's just not fair. Now we have a solution!

 

I have to agree with dr bob on this, if it has never been done, you just know the two hoses that connect to the oil filler housing are going to not like being moved around.

 

I hear ya'. But not until after SITMs! Till then I'm going to keep packing a few quarts of oil in the car for trips.

 

Mark,
Nice part, should help a lot with oil slinging into the filler neck.

One important tip for you and those installing this (plus Mark will get to sell another part :-).

I have had a lot of experience with thin metal plates used at the oil filler neck opening.. and as most know it is also a common problem for the 32V oil filler neck to leak anyway.

Using a thin metal plate long term there will start to leak no matter how much or little sealant you use on it (the Early Twins Screw/Eaton guys can probably back me up on this also). Not sure why, maybe due to the different expansion rates of the steel plate vs the aluminum block, but they almost always leak.

We went to a thicker aluminum plate along with the 16V gasket mentioned below to solve our issues with this. But this is probably not practical in this case as a thick plate might raise the oil filler neck so high that it will cause fitment interference somewhere else.

So, I would HIGHLY recommend that everyone use the 16V Oil Filler neck gasket (with sealant) between this new part and the block. Doing that will lessen the chance of leaks later on and the part is cheap.

Part # 928.107.707.04