LT Texan

The crack above my radiator inlet hose when from seep to spurt.

I called around and found no one interested in replacing the end tanks

So, I figured I'd give it a go.

First, make an inexpensive and easy press.


Then heat up the aluminum tabs and carefully break them off.


The tabs are thick and very brittle. I don't think it is possible to bend these back without breaking them. I bet that is why I could find no one that wanted any part of it.

(Yes, the inlet is broken.)

BTW, i tried sealing the crack with 2 part epoxy - the heat and antifreeze turned it to mush.

I do not look forward to telling my wife I need a $900 radiator.

Mike Frye

Dude. I'm sorry. Nice post though. I hope it was intended as humor because I laughed my *** off when I read it.

They can be bent back, although missing the ones you've got broken off, you might not be able to save it. I used a paint can lid remover and grinded it down with a dremel to give it a hook with some meat on on it and the right angle to pull them out.

You should drop an e-mail or PM to Heinrich, I think he said he's got a couple of used radiators laying around.

Good luck.

brianrheffron

I might be wrong but I think I recall a post where someone removed the end tanks, ground off all the tabs and reclamped them using aluminium channel sections crimped tight using mole grips or similar.

Imo000

Yup, I remember reading that too. I'm sure it's here somewhere.

Hilton

If only those two are broken off, then it may be salvagable still. Being at the corner, there's enough compression from nearby tabs to keep a seal.

Saw through the plastic end tank to remove all of it except the rim that is held down by the tabs - that'll improve the access to the tabs, and you can heat then with a blowtorch. Then bend the tabs gently upwards using a flatblade screwdriver (easy to do with a screwdriver once you've cut the tank body off its rim). You don't need to bend them up to 90 degrees - once both sides are up 60 degrees or so you'll have enough play to get the rim out, and put the new tank in.

Once there's no rim, go have a beer - you'll deserve a break

Then come back, heat up all the tabs again with a blowtorch to make sure they're as pliable as possible, and then put the new tank in place and clamp it down. You don't need to clamp the radiator until you're squeezing the new tank on to compress the gasket and fold tabs down again.

For the tab folding, I use a pair of channel lock pliers and do several passes of small squeezes.

LT Texan

yeah it was intended to be a bit tongue in cheek. This just seems like territory no one wins in.

I've done a good job of breaking and tearing off (most of) the end tank with a pair of channel locks and a screw driver. This exposes the tabs.

WE"LL SEE HOW THE BEND NOW!!!!!!

What the hell. Nothing to lose.

And bad timing, just gave my wife hell for spending too much money.

ps, I did see the thread on the homemade tabs.

Mike Frye

I almost pissed myself when I read that line: "Carefully heat up the tabs and break them off." I may have to sig that one.

Good luck and keep us posted.

AO

Search for user davek9. He did a complete writeup on how to repair the end tank.

Hilton

Here's the link to the no-tabs repair - had it filed in my subscriptions' "Cooling" folder.

https://rennlist.com/forums/928-foru...h-no-tabs.html

Bill Ball

Yeah, Dan, I'll rub it in. I had my passenger sidetank replaced twice by a radiator shop. No broken tabs. Apparently they have some nice tools for this.

LT Texan

Bill, I'll call around some more on Monday to find a taker on the work. (Before I do too much damage) Online I did see a few I could ship it off to.

LT Texan

The secret is to remove the tank before you bend the tabs. I used channel locks to crush it and break it. Dikes to trim what I could and even a razor knife.

The trick is to get the tank off to get good access to the tabs.

Using channel locks, bend not just the tab, but the tab and frame back. Channel locks on the end of the tab and under the frame works just fine. The tab will bend a bit and the frame will bend a bit, not stressing anything too much.

Fit the end tank without the o-ring to ensure the tabs do not restrict the tank from seating properly. Be careful to allow just enough access.

I put in the o-ring, tank and used my press to compress the tank where it belonged. I could see this by looking at the other tank.

Once in place and under pressure from the press, I used a hammer (yes, for the weak at heart, a hammer) to tap the frame back up against the tank. I took my time and held a 5 lb sledge on the other side of the frame to absorb the impact.

The tabs closed in as you tap the frame back. I finished the tabs off compressing them into place with channel locks.

Obviously, I took my time and did this in many rounds, not trying to complete one tab all at once.


Since I am installing a 16" electric fan, and understand the temp switch on the rad is a bit on the high side, I will not pressure test the radiator until this is done.

And that is because my pressure tester happens to be a 1978 Porsche 928 supercar!

Bill Ball

You shouldn't need to ship it. Just find a shop that has experience with Behr plastic sidetanks. Most shops should. The one I used was good, but I needed to provide the tank and gasket.

I'm a staunch DIY guy too, but I left this to the pros.

Mike Frye

Bill, I checked around by me and got attitude when I brought the radiator in along with the side tank and gasket. No one wanted to mess with it so I did it myself.

Maybe it depends on where you are.

LT Texan

ditto. everyone wants to make the big bucks. no time for the bread and butter jobs around here.