davek9

When I did the TBWP this spring I had a small coolant seepage that I hoped was my upper radiator hose, changed the hose, no good it only slowly got progressively worse, luckily it made it through most of the summer.

I pulled the radiator and could not see any cracks but it was very wet around the seal near the upper main intake hose, a quick search of Rennlist showed that this is the most common leak point, where the radiator gets the hottest…great!

The common consensus seems to be that one can have the tank resealed at least once, after that the tabs start to break off and the unit is toast.

I spoke to a few of the guys at our local meeting, Andrew O. suggested removing the old tank to see what I had to work with before deciding to repair or replace.
Good idea, so I gave Matt B. a call knowing he had a most of what would be needed locally, Matt said sure bring it over and lets take a look.

davek9

Not wanting to damage the tank and seeing that the seal or tank was repaired once before as one tabs was already broken off and another broke when we tried to bend it... so we proceeded to just cut them ALL off!

davek9

The tank then pried off with a little screwdriver to get it started.
You can clearly see where the seal was leaking near the top main hose.

I then ordered a replacement seal from 928 International and some other do-dads.

davek9

Now how to re-clamp the tank to the core…?
For the next week I drew up a few ideas and Matt gathered up some steal, we were both coming up with some good methods but decided to keep it simple.

davek9

We started with a “C” clip type of fastener, but could not see how they would stay on.

davek9

Here is what we came up with, they are tapped on and go on tight, but first the tank was compressed on to the core.
The stainless steel tie-raps are just to ensure they stay in place.

Randy V

OK.

Rob Edwards

The guys at Behr will be working tomorrow, then will serve you with papers next week after they patent 'their' repair kit on Monday....

davek9

Well what do you all think… will it leak..?
We all will have to wait until tomorrow when I install it and see…

davek9

"The guys at Behr will be working tomorrow, then will serve you with papers next week after they patent 'their' repair kit on Monday...."

thats too funny...

Thanks Randy... !

Mrmerlin

Well nice work and a good idea. Now since you know how things work get a new side tank and replace the old tank along with a new side seal.,
The plastic tanks will usually fail along the top edge seal where the tabs hold the top of the tank to the core. this usually happens due to 2 things one this is the hottest part of the radiator and 2 this is also the place where there is a small amount of air in the top of the tank IE the coolant cant purge out the air pocket so the tank will get brittle from the heat and eventually start a hairline crack, if you look carefully you will see this as a white line near the top of the end tank. This would all go away if the bleeder line was connected to the HOT side of the end tank

6mil928

Excellent!!!!!

davek9

Thanks guys, and I did not know that about the air bubble, makes sense to me.

I went the $10. and labor route (thanks again Matt) as it is too late in the season to sink $1k in a new rad and then let is sit all winter..!
Depending on how well this works a new tank would be the way to go, too early to tell.
I really intended this just to last for the next 2 months and to get the car back up North where I store it (225miles) and rather drive it there than tow it

6mil928

This is so good I think it should be added to the read this first post.

AO

Nice work Dave. It will not leak...

















much.