Need help with another smog test issue
#31
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Sounds good
From what ive read on the process in other threads, it was also suggested that you look for a place OTHER then that vacuum line as like you said it wouldnt give you the coverage your after.
The place i called for $90 is so cheap i would check the shop out. Im now familiar with the tools used, the chemicals and the process that i could take a look at the shop and if its what im expecting just having them do it this time. I got the name off the BG website FWIW
From what ive read on the process in other threads, it was also suggested that you look for a place OTHER then that vacuum line as like you said it wouldnt give you the coverage your after.
The place i called for $90 is so cheap i would check the shop out. Im now familiar with the tools used, the chemicals and the process that i could take a look at the shop and if its what im expecting just having them do it this time. I got the name off the BG website FWIW
Hooking up to a vacuum line does not give good results IMHO.
If you see them walking out to the car with this, say I do not want it done. (this is a BG tool BTW)
![](http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g239/ac4vette/misc/bgtools003.jpg)
No way in the world would I do one on a 928 for that.
Think about it.
You have to disable the fuel pump and block the return line, hook up a injector cleaner like this and run it till it is gone.
You also have to hold the idle up for the next two steps.
![](http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g239/ac4vette/misc/bgtools004.jpg)
Then the atomizer has to be put in after the MAS.
This thing.
![](http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g239/ac4vette/misc/bgtools002.jpg)
Then take it out and run it hard to blow the carbon and the goo out.
Then the 44K goes into the tank and it must be filled after the 44K for it to mix well.
#32
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Ryan--
When/where are you having the cleaning done? If it's close/convenient I'd like to visit some while they do the work on it. You are right that the cost is too good for a one-shot to fuss with making a whole DIY setup. That has never stopped us before, but has slowed us down just a tad. I'm due for smog this fall, and barely squeek by on NOx. If the BG is the answer-in-a-can, I'm all for it.
When/where are you having the cleaning done? If it's close/convenient I'd like to visit some while they do the work on it. You are right that the cost is too good for a one-shot to fuss with making a whole DIY setup. That has never stopped us before, but has slowed us down just a tad. I'm due for smog this fall, and barely squeek by on NOx. If the BG is the answer-in-a-can, I'm all for it.
Its a certified BG facility (for whatever thats worth) which came off the of BG website. I called around and got prices of $200 plus but Van Nuys is notorious (in a good way) for deals. I regularly find myself calling around and finding some shops that are really cheap, wether its mounting and balancing tires or other stuff i dont have the ability to do. No one seems to use the phone anymore, but in this case it seems to have been ok.
I was at a tire shop that wanted $80 to mount and balance 4 tires, I thought it was high, i was willing to pay $60. I opened up Google maps on the iphone, typed in "tire" in that area and made 2 calls, the second place said $40, and thats where i went.
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#33
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If they are doing the whole BG 3 part cleaner for 90 bucks, my guess is they are not doing anything but hooking up to a vacuum line to the intake cleaner and then dumping the 44K and injection cleaner in the tank.
Hooking up to a vacuum line does not give good results IMHO.
If you see them walking out to the car with this, say I do not want it done. (this is a BG tool BTW)
![](http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g239/ac4vette/misc/bgtools003.jpg)
No way in the world would I do one on a 928 for that.
Think about it.
You have to disable the fuel pump and block the return line, hook up a injector cleaner like this and run it till it is gone.
You also have to hold the idle up for the next two steps.
![](http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g239/ac4vette/misc/bgtools004.jpg)
Then the atomizer has to be put in after the MAS.
This thing.
![](http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g239/ac4vette/misc/bgtools002.jpg)
Then take it out and run it hard to blow the carbon and the goo out.
Then the 44K goes into the tank and it must be filled after the 44K for it to mix well.
Hooking up to a vacuum line does not give good results IMHO.
If you see them walking out to the car with this, say I do not want it done. (this is a BG tool BTW)
![](http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g239/ac4vette/misc/bgtools003.jpg)
No way in the world would I do one on a 928 for that.
Think about it.
You have to disable the fuel pump and block the return line, hook up a injector cleaner like this and run it till it is gone.
You also have to hold the idle up for the next two steps.
![](http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g239/ac4vette/misc/bgtools004.jpg)
Then the atomizer has to be put in after the MAS.
This thing.
![](http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g239/ac4vette/misc/bgtools002.jpg)
Then take it out and run it hard to blow the carbon and the goo out.
Then the 44K goes into the tank and it must be filled after the 44K for it to mix well.
Sorry I dont know your name
Yeah i found your post in another thread particularly helpful as you posted similiar info and pics. As i said, i am familiar with the tools now based on your other posts, THANKS
It was just a place i called but when i heard "yeah its like $89" i questioned it cause i expected $150, in which case i was planning on doing it myself and then would be able to do it on future cars mainly a DD car i have that seems to ping allot! I will check the place out shortly and if its what im expecting then cool if not, well ill figure it out then.
#34
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Ryan--
I have the can tapper that Greg shows, looks a lot like a vintage Freon tapper right down to the hose and fitting sizes. We'd need to come up with that atomizer nozzle but we may have an option of using some brass drip irrigation fogger/mister parts. Greg, any idea on how much/how fast the stuff is blown into the intake airstream? Open the needle valve until the engine stumbles on too much, then back it off? I could see injecting a water mist in there to thermal-shock a few carbon deposits, and steam-clean the combustion chambers. The little worn brain gears are clinking along slowly this morning, but at least they broke free from their stuck/sleep position for a change.
I have the can tapper that Greg shows, looks a lot like a vintage Freon tapper right down to the hose and fitting sizes. We'd need to come up with that atomizer nozzle but we may have an option of using some brass drip irrigation fogger/mister parts. Greg, any idea on how much/how fast the stuff is blown into the intake airstream? Open the needle valve until the engine stumbles on too much, then back it off? I could see injecting a water mist in there to thermal-shock a few carbon deposits, and steam-clean the combustion chambers. The little worn brain gears are clinking along slowly this morning, but at least they broke free from their stuck/sleep position for a change.
#35
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The time it takes is dependent on the engine size, I usually run about ten PSI per cylinder, but about 6-10 minutes on one of our engines.
The engines do not like the intake cleaner, I usually set them up with a throttle stop to run at 2000 RPM before I start the cleaning, during cleaning the RPM will drop down to about 1750 and after it runs out the rpm will be higher than it started at.
The answer to the needle valve question is it depends on how much it is open, but I almost never use the can piercer anymore.
They both are for the same thing, the one with the nozzle uses shop air to force it into the throttle body and the can piercer uses manifold vacuum.
I hope this helps.
PS, I really am a fan of the BG stuff, it may not fix the problem, but it always seems to help.
The other Greg
The engines do not like the intake cleaner, I usually set them up with a throttle stop to run at 2000 RPM before I start the cleaning, during cleaning the RPM will drop down to about 1750 and after it runs out the rpm will be higher than it started at.
The answer to the needle valve question is it depends on how much it is open, but I almost never use the can piercer anymore.
They both are for the same thing, the one with the nozzle uses shop air to force it into the throttle body and the can piercer uses manifold vacuum.
I hope this helps.
PS, I really am a fan of the BG stuff, it may not fix the problem, but it always seems to help.
The other Greg
Ryan--
I have the can tapper that Greg shows, looks a lot like a vintage Freon tapper right down to the hose and fitting sizes. We'd need to come up with that atomizer nozzle but we may have an option of using some brass drip irrigation fogger/mister parts. Greg, any idea on how much/how fast the stuff is blown into the intake airstream? Open the needle valve until the engine stumbles on too much, then back it off? I could see injecting a water mist in there to thermal-shock a few carbon deposits, and steam-clean the combustion chambers. The little worn brain gears are clinking along slowly this morning, but at least they broke free from their stuck/sleep position for a change.
I have the can tapper that Greg shows, looks a lot like a vintage Freon tapper right down to the hose and fitting sizes. We'd need to come up with that atomizer nozzle but we may have an option of using some brass drip irrigation fogger/mister parts. Greg, any idea on how much/how fast the stuff is blown into the intake airstream? Open the needle valve until the engine stumbles on too much, then back it off? I could see injecting a water mist in there to thermal-shock a few carbon deposits, and steam-clean the combustion chambers. The little worn brain gears are clinking along slowly this morning, but at least they broke free from their stuck/sleep position for a change.