Step 24 states:

"Pull underpressure line for automatic transmission from underpressure distributor."

There is no photo, and I have looked around the WSM, and PET. Also did a search on RL. Please help me identify the line they are talking about.

I know it's going to be something stupid.....

Also, step 6 had a line that read "Unhook accelerator spring retaining clamp at bottom" (before removing the hood)... I couldn't identify where this clamp was either(no photo in WSM)... I've skipped it for the time being.

I'm going to continue throught the steps. Hopefully I can come back in here in a while and figure out what I'm missing... It's been quite a while since I pulled a 928 motor... And I've never pulled a 32V before...

Thanks in advance,

Mike

 

I think the WSM is referring to the throttle pressure cable (connected to the bellcrank under the hood). As you have an auto trans, there should be three cables at the bellcrank - throttle, cruise control and throttle pressure to the trans.

 

I used this step.

1. Just disconnect everthing.

I think Adam is right. I don't think there are any trans lines that would get in the way.

 

Substitute "vacuum" for "underpressure".

Or in other words, disconnect the vacuum line that runs from the five-way connector at the rear of the intake manifold down the torque tube to the vacuum modulator.

As a hint - there will be a wire harness clamped on the bottom that will try to pick up the car with the engine...

 

"Unbolt the motor mounts and bellhousing. Lift engine while removing other wiring and hoses that impede progress."

What else do you need to know?

And, Wally, this is supposed to be a secret step.

"Lift car by wiring harness attached to cross-member. Curse violently then unbolt it."

 

The wire harness Wally refers to is bolted to the the engine x-brace............its a 10mm nut and bolt so with the strg rack loose/removed its location is evident to the left of the motor mount location.

Can you tell I was just in there

 

X2
biggest thing you need is a Spec book for the Tq values putting stuff back together

 

yup...just when you think you have everything.

Guilty of that one.
Single ground wire

 

Those German bastards!!! Its funny to me that they have an arrow and a photo on "almost" all the steps... The photos they forget they also use cryptic language...

Thanks for the advice!

 

That might be....

But we began deducting man points the minute you mentioned reading the manuals.





Now if your just looking at the pictures....

 

What's even funnier, when I read the manuals..it's never 24 steps..usually just four....Step one...remove key from ignition... Step 2...remove engine from car.... Step 3.....fix problem.....Step 4 ....return engine to car... See...that was easy ..right ???

 

Yeah RIGHT! These cars are such a pain... I spent the morning, 8am till around 1pm getting to step 24. came in had some lunch made a post. Started back up at 2pm. Got to the 4 bolts that attach the bellhousing to the engine....

F*$!%#$ Piece of S&@$! G@& D&@%^@ DIE COMMIE BASTARD!!!!!

that was all leveled at the one bolt on the top drivers side. I know I've read about this particular bolt, and thought I was completely prepared. I tried everything in the toolbox. I was even prepared with a newly purchased (for purpose) flex head ratchet, and 19mm dog bone. I've never had this much trouble with a single bolt. (well, at least not with one that had not broken off) I'll post some photos tonight of how I finally got that damn bolt loose. When I finally did get it loose, guess what? It was slathered with copper anti seize. It was the only bolt like this out of the four. I swear, I want to add some rivnuts to the firewall and have a removeable access plate to enable removal of this bolt from the cabin.... When I finally came into the house. Cut, bruised, and sore, it was 9PM.... I guess I will get it the rest of the way out this week. I was going to wait until done, but I'll be sure and post some photos tonight.

 

Well, here are the first photos of the pull. Hood removed. Air cleaner, tubes and MAF removed. UGLY. And my "special" wrench. After the long struggle with sockets, wrenches, crows feet, dogbones, and cursing, I could tell the bolt was getting worse for wear. All my wrenches were 12 pt. I fell back and droped by Sears (it was the only thing open after 7pm on Sunday). I bought a 19mm 6 pt. flex socket. It wouldn't work in it's standard form, so I took a old cheapo 1/2" drive breaker bar, removed the jointed section, drove the hinge pin out of the Craftsman universal 19mm socket. milled approx. .045" of each side of the 1/2" jointed section, drilled the swaged in ball detent out, drilled a .173" hole through it, put it all back together and Viola! I created the FrankenWrench. I suppose I could have opted to buy some 6pt. dogbones and got it out as well... Well they didn't have any of those at Sears, and I was on a mission to get that bolt out that night. Instead of having to buy a whole set of wrenches though, I only had to buy the one flex socket. And you want to know how much it cost with tax? $9.28!!! It was a sign!



Then I ground off the flared section of the socket end, and radiused the breaker bar head corners so it would completely seat on the bolt head and give even more room to turn. Bolt broke right away. Unfortunately, the socket also cracked in the process (should have milled the socket face instead of grindiing... Lost it's temper) You can see the crack in the last photo of the tool.... At least the bolt is out now.

Soooo... anyways... I will work on welding the wrench up (or start fresh with a new universal socket) so I can make the wrench available to anyone in the area that needs it... I think the last person who put this bolt in either over torqued it, or there was a reaction to the copper anti seize...because that bolt was F%$#@&! IN there...

Spent tonight getting through step 33 of 49...I'll post more photos when the engine comes out.

 

Well, since Craftsman sockets are warranted for life, I assume that you will be taking it back to Sears...

Neat tool!

 

Neat tool. That particular bolt is trouble on the S4 too. It helps a whole lot to have someone back the tool head with a long prybar so that it cannot back off the bolt head.

Here was my first attempt. This long 19mm offset box end wrench fit perfectly on the bolt head, but there was not enough range of motion, less than 15 degrees, to use it.



The solution that worked was a flexhead Gearwrench, as it only requires 5 degrees of motion and is plenty strong enough. This pictures shows it being held by a Vicegrip, but I used an interlocking box end wrench to provide extra length/leverage.