MK
I'm thinking that pulling the motor is the only option....so the car is down for a little bit....but in the long run it is the best option...once again the motor might have been toast when I got it...who knows how it was driven-maintained by the PO's...& I know for a fact that the guy that built it seriously overheated it at least a few times (he said 230F water temp) so that might contribute as well.....

Once the motor is out it will be easy to inspect it and determine the extent of the damage and most cost effective way to get it running properly again.....

 

Please let us know when you decide to tell the wife....so we can commemorate your final post.

Rich

 

Rich
Gee thanks.....

 

Check the oil overpressure bypass and the oil filter bypass for shavings. If shavings made it into the oil galleys you're looking at at least a heads-off teardown.

 

Sorry to hear this Brian. The good news is that you've caught it early enough that this is almost routine maintenance. This'll just be your yearly rod bearing replacement. Blowing up a motor would have been a way bigger bummer.

Once the motor is out, it's pretty easy to install the new rod bearings & scraper kit. Let me know if you have any questions. I've been down this road . . .

-Dennis

 

Bearings should be relatively cheap, it's all the other stuff that you might as well do since you're in there anyway that really starts to add up.......

I hear these things pull really good with a pair of turbos

 

Dennis
I do hope I caught it early enough that the scrapings didn't get everywhere and essentially ruin the engine...

I've already got my "list" of parts to buy
1: Rod Bearings
2: Scraper-windage kit & spacer
3: setrab oil cooler (20 row already have)
4: accusump...or drysump (debating this one)

 

Dave
I really hope its "not that bad" a clean up.....& since I do not plan on re-using the factory oil cooler in the radiator that makes the clean up a bit easier too

 

Only way to tell is to inspect....

 

You risk breaking a bunch of parts if you do that. At least you have all of the good parts to do a rebuild with what you have. You run the risk of doing big damage when something breaks. If you need to see what one of these motors looks like with two broken rods, shattered piston skirts and a fried crank, let me know. I have a motor that got a big dose of Mark Anderson..

 

You do need more options:

Drill crank, or not

AND either

Windage system and/or accusump

OR

Dry sump

OR

No oil control changes

AND

Spacer or not



Now I went for the windage system alone. This is because I didn't have the scratch or time for a drilled crank. My car is streeted and I can't see how to mount the tank for a dry sump. Instead of a better ($$$) approach I'm checking the oil filter and getting the oil tested periodically. I don't have data on this as I've switched to tracking my 944 for a few reasons unrelated to oiling problems.

 

Put a Chevy in it. Just kidding.

But seriously. We are trying to fit bandaids to problems that were engineered INTO an engine before real computers were in use.

 

Brendan, it's some metal .... like any other V8. It is a problem, and it can be solved ... no voodoo. I agree with you. RKD I think has a good point. All the rest are bandaids. Target the problem and solve it. If the issue is not enough oil to 2/6, give them more oil dammit And if the issue is aeration, make it harder for oil to be winded. Deeper pan, slanted somewhere else, drysump, no more aeration, no more windage.

 

How does one properly open up up the filter to inspect it? Obviously sawing is out, do you just punch a hole and cut the rest open with tin snips?

 

There are actually oil filter openers. I puncture and snip to get the guts out

OK, ok, okay...

Your best option is a drilled crank and a dry sump system. If you're not up for that then it's time to compromise.

BTW - The "scaper" is a very complex system of baffles and channels. There's a scraper in there. There's also a cool sump cover with trap doors.