FBIII

Looks good. The body appears very straight. You should however remove the side strips before painting. They are double sided tape and a clip or bolt at each end.

Fabio421

I agree, a side strip delete makes the lines of the car so much more sexy.

Tampa 928s

Side stips gone = holes in body is that correct?

Mrmerlin

yes but they are relatively easy to fill with aluminum welding IIRC there will be 3 holes per side.
Sides strips should be removed B 4 you paint strip them with a media blaster and refinish then just like the PU covers

Fabio421

A few cars w/ sidestrip delete for your viewing pleasure.

dr bob

The idea of masking the edges of the doors is a bit strange to me. IMHO, you'll want to mask right in the middle of where the door gasket normally lives. This makes the hard edge hidden under the new gasket. On the fenders, it might make similar sense to do the same on the vertical face of the mounting along the top edge, so you can sand and blend the new and the old along that face. That's if you don't plan to remove the boilts alog that flanged edge. The whole exposed outside face of the fender really need to be stripped completely, no blended edges on the outside finished faces at all. The idea is to mask just the edges is to keep stripper from running into seams and other places where you can't do follow-up prep like samding and priming/sealing. Along the fender edges. for instance, I'd be tempted to unbolt all the lip bolts during stripping, but use masking between the outer and inner fenders to completely protect the inner fender and engine bay stuff. The bolted flange would be stripped and sanded, primed once, bolts stripped separately then reinstalled, then primed and sealed with the flange so that the bolts are exactly the same color and finish as the flange and fender top. Like it was originally. Just keep the stripper out of the inaccessible regions.

And be sure to use the right prep coatings on the raw aluminum, and don't breach those while sanding.

Larry Velk

My experience relative to German enamel cars includes about 4 XR4Ti's (painted by Karman). If it is a garaged, Northern car in a solid with minimal sun exposure a sanded factory finish is very good. My painted cars have sat outside and have had salt and daily exposure for many years - they held up great (ppg single-stage-to-color). They will 'die-back' or sand scratch swell like laquer jobs - but to a much lesser extent, so you need to let them sit in primer and maybe give them a mild sun-tan before final color. Put plenty of color on and sand after several days to prevent this moderate die-back. Guys who base/clear won't put as much color on (by a long shot) and need to address this differently. I don't use sealer as I am into minimal different coats. Even original English paint from the 60's can be done this way if the environmental exposure is gentle = although I did these many years ago when the paint was "younger". Bets are off if it's a metallic or sun damaged.

Tampa 928s

Point well taken, bolts are off of the inner fender. I could remove the hatch and the windows are out so maybe less taping might be in order.

Tampa 928s

One more thing, search is not my friend I remember a post on removing the side strips anyone have a link?

dr bob

For the side strips, the technique included using a piece of nylon fishing line, drawing it parallel to the paint and through the tape to get it to release. That's to eliminate damage to the paint and avoid bending/warping the moldings trying to pull them off. Acetone makes short work of the tape used, and since you aren't real concerned about the survival of the strips (are you going to put them back on?) you can just put acetone on the top pf the body-to sidestrip seam and let it do all the work for you. It takes a while to go through all that take and it flashes fast so it takes a bit of time to get it all off. maybe that nylon string trick really is better.

Earl Gillstrom

To remove side strips, use heat. A hair drier to heat the body and strip and putty knife to help. Remove the glue with acetone. Be sure to remove the nuts first. If you are careful, you can reuse them after painting. Paint separate from the car.

Tampa 928s

There off, I tried the fishing line and it broke, light up a cigar and went to plan B. I am building a cage for my son's new iguana and remembered it had some thin wire that held the rolled screen, sounded like a good idea. Well got it started and it was like flossing teeth, now I know why I don't throw anything out.
Any recommendations what to use to sick it back on? Also the rubbers have some type of Rtv type glue for sealing and recommendations on that?

dr bob

Tampa--

A good autobody supply place will have the thin double-sided tape made for this purpose. Be Sure to use guide tape stretched straight to make sure there are no wiggles. The easiest way to install side moldings that I've found is start at one end with the bumper strip, and pull the facetape off the bumper strip slowly as you press the bumper strip into place. Put the guide strip of tape above the bumper strip, for instance, and pull the paper facetape off at an angle down so you can see the guide tape as you press the bumper strip into place. Masking tape to hold the bumper strip lined up while you install makes it easier, and another pair of hands makes it even easier beyond that.

Fabio421

Mark,

Regarding the Iguana cage, call me. It sounds like you may need to modify that cage to eliminate cage rub.

As for the rub strips, your on your own.

Mrmerlin

the side strip tape comes in different widths and the one used on the 928 also is a bit thicker so you should test your tape as if its too thin it wont fully adhere.
I dont know if you can buy new tape at the dealer, but if so then thats where I would get it, I have not found any tape that is the correct thickness aftermarket.
It also helps to lay the side strips in the sun for a while to warm the tape up and make sure the car body is also warm. I would wait a few weeks B4 applying the strips to your new paint

Pet shows 3 different tapes, you will need 2 of each, Like i said you may find that the 3M aftermarket tapes are just a hair thinner than what comes on the car, I did find some 3M tape at an Autozone that looked to be about the right width but I didnt test for thickness.
Otherwise you may need to run 2 seperate strips down each molding one on either side of the center to get a better fit.

Fender PN 928 559 175 03
Door PN 928 559 165 03
Quarter PN 928 559 181 03