Jsulli

I live north of Austin in Round Rock. I will be doing all the work myself and have already started to pull the engine. I also watched that video someone posted of the original mechanics guide to pulling the cams and like I've said before, Im golden till it comes to the fine-tuning timing. It appears I will need to replace about 4 intake valves, although I cant see the exhaust valves, any ideas about exhaust valves bending in relation to the intakes?

M. Requin

You are going to be here a lot if you keep that car. Add your year to your sig and that will get you about 3X more responses to your questions (everybody gets tired asking what year? AT/Manual? etc.), and your location might even get you a couple of volunteers (or at least a peanut gallery that drinks beer). And if you doubt Fraggle's advice about pulling the engine, check his posts - he's BTDT. And BTW - how is the project coming Fraggle?

Jsulli

Heh Yeah I know what you mean, I was able to just read posts for weeks until I finally needed to post. Also added my location and year, thanks for the info. After watching that video again I guess the hard part is measuring the openings of the valves with the dial gauges and such. Oh well. have to pull the engine regardless so I guess Ill get busy.

James Bailey

Odds are MOST of the valves are bent some so little that it is hard to see, trust me on this .... also do not be surprised if the cylinder bores have a few small scratches MOST do.

928autobahndreamer

Don't do that unless you know what you are getting into with an engine conversion. In order for this to be done right, you will end up with a lot more work than just redoing your existing engine. And, much of this will be fab work.

Jsulli

well yeah but they sell all the conversion kits to do that, i just want something a little more reliable I guess

86'928S MeteorGrey

I have right now 2 heads with matched cams from an 86. You can see the related threads here...

https://rennlist.com/forums/928-foru...ecking-in.html

https://rennlist.com/forums/928-foru...my-engine.html

https://rennlist.com/forums/928-foru...rama-help.html

If you are interested, PM me and we can work a deal. I can have the heads inspected by someone local if you wish.

Jsulli

Alright Im going to pull the engine this weekend and see how much damage is done, If most of the valves are still good and I dont have to replace the pistons then I will just rebuild. Once again though, does anyone know where to find those cam templates, if they are even needed?

SteveG

Yeah, you won't get much support along those lines here. The stock engine, maintained properly is thought of as bullet-proof. If you are experienced enough to pull the engine (but didn't id the crank bolt or torque to 219) most would replace the valves and gitr' done. A Vette engine might be cheaper, but as people have noted, you are not looking at replacing the engine, just the valves.

Also, a very knowledgable person here has suggested that all should be replaced. You risk going in again after it is back together and a compression check shows?? You were going to to do that right? Good luck. We like to see them saved. OTH, if she dies, it raises the value of those remaining.

Jsulli

So you do think it necessary to replace all the valves? Would the exhaust even come in contact?

SteveG

OK, now I'm begining to think we are being punked. Please see post #20. You are new here and apparently to the 928. Jim Bailey knows what he is talking about. Resist at your peril.

Jsulli

Again, not resisting, Just trying to get info from as many users as I possibly can, is that not the purpose?

Looks like its in my best interest to let this thread die. Maybe Ill try again later.

Mako 928

Here is what I would do if I was in your situation.
1. WSM or cd version. You will need this since you will be re-doing heads and setting timing. Also for 85' 86' you torque the heads in 3 seperate 90 degree stages.
2. I used the "special tool" 9226/3 jig to set the cams and also used the special tool to hold/lock down the cams while re-installing the cams/bearing caps so as not to bend/crack the cams. I was able to borrow the tools from a shop here in the Bay Area.
3. Go to http://members.rennlist.com/bigdave/index.html to help explain how to time/set the cams. (Thanks Big Dave) Also get a good dial indicator and you will need to fabricate a stand for the dail indicator to use on these heads.
4. Get John kelly's timing belt manual. It is a step by step for MY 85' 86' which helps unless you do TB/water pump jobs on a daily basis.
5. Get the 32Ver from Porken to help dail in setting the cams.
There is a recent write up on the cam chain tensioner pads for MY 85' 86' as these are unique to these years. (87' forward pads DO NOT fit on MY 85' 86' cam chain tensioners)

Jsulli

Now thats the kinda help I was looking for. Thanks alot