morganabowen

I am really surprised that the seats are shot! With only 37K miles, maybe at some point, it was left in the elements. I had a 1982 that I purchased with about 65K miles, and the interior was shot. It turned out that the car had sat with the windows open for over 10 years in a banks lot after they had gone out of business. Your car look terrific, and I especially like the sunroof delete. Good luck and look forward to more updates and post

James Bailey

Cockneybraun is the color of my old very brown 1980 a none metallic chocolate (semi sweet) brown. After nine years I am rather fond of the color. The timing belt was is a none issue when it lets go nothing else happens you just put on a new belt and it is good to go. That 4.5 engine is NOT a valve bender if the current shop said that it was ....... No need for the "updated" tensioner either again a none interference engine. If it down shifts into second easily then the odometer reading might be real ! Fun car now drive the wheels of of it !!!

shmark

Great looking car, and yes you should definitely keep the color! It's unique and is definitely the "in" color these days. Mine has a little more gray metallic laid into the brown color while Sterling's has more of a honey color - can't remember the name of it but it's really nice. [edit] Sterling's color is cognac brown.

And on the seats, you need to check out the work of Paul Champagne or Rob Budd. You can get those seats into amazing shape for a reasonable amount of money.

Thanks! I just wish it looked that good right now. Got to get it out for a good scrubbing.

Korwen

Haha, echoing this statement. You really appreciate how much fun working on cars can be when you only get to do it maybe twice a month, and only then for a couple days!

And don't get too comfortable putting that 82 in your sig Vaark, it'll be headed my way soon

Jadz928

ChiefVA,
Welcome to RL and 928 ownership! Glad to see you are local. Landseer and I are the local contingent of two. Three would be even better.

PM sent.

Chief VA

"The timing belt was is a none issue when it lets go nothing else happens you just put on a new belt and it is good to go. That 4.5 engine is NOT a valve bender if the current shop said that it was ....... No need for the "updated" tensioner either again a none interference engine."

OK, the shop told me IT IS an interference engine. I searched rennlist and I saw several posts saying it's not. So thank you James! I really would rather do that myself but I was scared to put any miles on it without changing the timing belt. Makes me a little irritated with the shop because that was my first question. I just drove it home from the shop. Let the fun begin!

Thanks again for all the replies and advice! I will go with brown paint. Oh and I do want to go with the nice leather interior but that may be later in the year.

Korwen

Not saying that the shop you had work done at was bad, I honestly don't know, but that's the big thing that we all harp on when finding a mechanic for your 928. These are peculiar cars, with lots of little differences between model years, not to mention all the gray market cars that made their way state-side (I'd love to have a Euro S!) so having a mechanic who knows exactly what to look for, and knows the peculiarities of the 928, is a great boon.

86'928S MeteorGrey

Welcome! Good to see another shark back on the road. I know you said you were on a budget, but when you do decide to do the timing belt, it's a no brainer to do the water pump, seals, and rollers at the same time. Being non interferance is great, but a failed belt or water pump will still leave you standed... Start a piggy bank for the whole front of the engine. Then when the time comes, do the whole enchilada... It will make you feel good. Good luck with your restore!

Jadz928

Good talkin' with you, Mike. Sounds like a great car! Would love to stop by and take a look.

Make sure to tell Jeff at DeltaV I sent you...

Chris (Landseer), we need to get Mike a TB tensioner. Used to have one but gave it away (both my 928sd have P'kension'r).

UmmYeahOk

The code should be on the drivers door jam, on the build sheet under the trunk carpet, or if youre lucky and have the original owners manual, its on the first page.

Brown Copper (443) and Tabac - Tobacco Metallic (464) was offered in 1980.

See if you can find the show Wheeler Dealers. They bought and restored a brown 928 of that era in roughly the same color. They were going to repaint it, but like someone said, it ended up buffing out real nice (plus the whole goal of the show is to sell for profit, and with a paint job, they wouldnt have on)

Just know that resprays are a pain if you want the door/hatch jams to match. Plus, if you want the engine bay to match you have the pull the entire engine and accessories.

-Edit-
https://rennlist.com/forums/928-foru...how-928-a.html

Chief VA

Jim, great talkin' with you as well. I really appreciate all of the advice! Come by anytime...I would love to see both of your's as well.

KLVA

You totally gotta check out Jim's 'Perl' probably the nicest pearl white paint job ever. Good luck with the new project .Hope to see all at SITM in June. Kevin 88 S4 AT Guards red, black "Stocker"

Korwen

Hey Chief - got a question for you. I see that you've got the Turbo Twist wheels, those are the ones I'm interested in. They seem to fit nicely on the car, was wondering if you can get me the wheel information. What size tires are you running front/back, and what are the numbers on the wheels by the valve stems? I'd really appreciate it! Good luck.

Jadz928

I'll help you on this one, ChiefVA...

The are two types of Turbos (like ChiefVA's).

Replica Turbo:
Front - 18x8 ET50, no more than 225/35 (because of rubbing)
Rear - 18x10 ET65, 265-285/30

OE Turbo (Hollowspokes):
Front - Same as replicas
Rear - 18x11 ET45, 285-305/30 (295 and above will require some fender flarring, & GT's require a spacer and flarring)

Chief VA

Jim beat me to it. I have 295s on the back but they need to be replaced- so I thought I would go to 285 becuase the 295s are rubbing a bit.