For Sale Cup I,17"Wheels W/RDK sensors
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Nice wheels, but WOW on the price! Good luck with that... I am a buyer on a nice set of Cup I w/ functional RDK's, but not at that price! YOWZA! Read the paper lately? The US is in a pretty big economic crunch...
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FWIW I paid $1K for an identical set and then paid $400 and 2 months waiting for straightening and refinishing, so $1500 for a set that's ready to go onto your '93 GTS seems like a reasonable ballpark price, not to mention a spare RDK ECU. These are only found on '93's and early '94's- how many sets can there be?
And they do look great:
And they do look great:
![](https://webfiles.uci.edu/redwards/public/Cup1%20rear%20refinished%201-14-08.jpg)
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I agree with Rob. If the wheels are true and don't need refinishing then $1.5k US is an OK deal.
Random, question to which I think I may already know the answer: Do the RDK sensors need to be removed before the wheels are refinished? If so, is there any brain surgery or NLA parts involved in the R&R?
Random, question to which I think I may already know the answer: Do the RDK sensors need to be removed before the wheels are refinished? If so, is there any brain surgery or NLA parts involved in the R&R?
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Dave-
To do it 'right', the sensors should probably come out- a lot of road grime/brake dust builds up around and under the sensor covers, which get brittle/warp with age. There are red rubber o-rings that seal the sensors. You'll note there are five (four?) little holes around the tire side of the sensor- Mark A. has a special tool that holds the sensor while you use a pair of channellocks to loosen the mouting ring on the rim side of the sensor. Honestly you can probably just use the channellocks alone- The rings are usually on really tight (and corroded if the covers are warped or lost) , you may need to start with a hammer and drift to get them loosened.
I bought sensor covers and o-rings from Mark about a year ago, so they should be still available.
The rims get cleaner if you remove 'em:
![](https://webfiles.uci.edu/redwards/public/Cup1%20RDK%20holes%201-14-08.jpg)
EDIT: Sensor pics for posterity:
![](https://webfiles.uci.edu/redwards/public/rear%20RDK%20cup%20I%20rim%20-tire%20side%20of%20sensor.jpg)
To do it 'right', the sensors should probably come out- a lot of road grime/brake dust builds up around and under the sensor covers, which get brittle/warp with age. There are red rubber o-rings that seal the sensors. You'll note there are five (four?) little holes around the tire side of the sensor- Mark A. has a special tool that holds the sensor while you use a pair of channellocks to loosen the mouting ring on the rim side of the sensor. Honestly you can probably just use the channellocks alone- The rings are usually on really tight (and corroded if the covers are warped or lost) , you may need to start with a hammer and drift to get them loosened.
I bought sensor covers and o-rings from Mark about a year ago, so they should be still available.
The rims get cleaner if you remove 'em:
![](https://webfiles.uci.edu/redwards/public/Cup1%20RDK%20holes%201-14-08.jpg)
EDIT: Sensor pics for posterity:
![](https://webfiles.uci.edu/redwards/public/rear%20RDK%20cup%20I%20rim%20-tire%20side%20of%20sensor.jpg)
![](https://webfiles.uci.edu/redwards/public/2-5%20bar%20RDK%20sensor%20in%20Cup%20I%20rim.jpg)
Last edited by Rob Edwards; 03-15-2009 at 03:52 PM.
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Thanks Rob.
So the answer is "you ought to use a special tool?"
So the answer is "you ought to use a special tool?"
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Dave-
Sorry, i didn't word that clearly. You ought to be able to remove them WITHOUT the special tool- a pair of big channellock pliers on the threaded rings should get them off. My WAG is that the special tool is used on assembly- It ensures that the sensor doesn't rotate (and possibly mung up the o-ring) while the threaded ring is torqued to some unknown spec using yet another special 'threaded ring tool' that I've never seen/heard of. When I put mine back together I didn't use any special tool on either side- I just used pliers till they were tight- no air leaks.
Sorry, i didn't word that clearly. You ought to be able to remove them WITHOUT the special tool- a pair of big channellock pliers on the threaded rings should get them off. My WAG is that the special tool is used on assembly- It ensures that the sensor doesn't rotate (and possibly mung up the o-ring) while the threaded ring is torqued to some unknown spec using yet another special 'threaded ring tool' that I've never seen/heard of. When I put mine back together I didn't use any special tool on either side- I just used pliers till they were tight- no air leaks.
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When I had mine refinished I didn't want to take a chance of an eventual leak,so I ask the shop to just leave the sensors in place and cover them with masking tape.Worked fine.