Almost had BBQ Shark today; Injector Questions
#1
Racer
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Well, I almost had a shark BBQ today. I started her up and smelled fuel, opened the hood and saw that an injector hose had cracked, on the passenger side (US Model). I was thinking if it had happened on the drivers side, well fuel hitting the distributor can not be a good thing!!
So, a couple of questions:
1. My injectors seem ok, always firing, no missing, using techron a few times a year.........
2. The hoses are all showing age though.
3. So I am thinking about just replacing the inner bushing and the fuel hoses.
4. What do you use to cut off the hose sleeve, I have a tin snip, but it seems like the blades are too large...........is there a better tool and how to attack it without messing up the line.
3. Can I use fuel injection hose from a local parts house like NAPPA, if so what size.
4. Can you use FI clamps in place of the metal hose sleeve.......
Any advise would be fantastic, and yes I will be doing both rails!!!
Thanks.
Shawn
84' 928S
89' Jaguar XJS
74' Triumph TR6
So, a couple of questions:
1. My injectors seem ok, always firing, no missing, using techron a few times a year.........
2. The hoses are all showing age though.
3. So I am thinking about just replacing the inner bushing and the fuel hoses.
4. What do you use to cut off the hose sleeve, I have a tin snip, but it seems like the blades are too large...........is there a better tool and how to attack it without messing up the line.
3. Can I use fuel injection hose from a local parts house like NAPPA, if so what size.
4. Can you use FI clamps in place of the metal hose sleeve.......
Any advise would be fantastic, and yes I will be doing both rails!!!
Thanks.
Shawn
84' 928S
89' Jaguar XJS
74' Triumph TR6
#4
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#6
Administrator - "Tyson"
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I've done this job a few times now..![banghead](https://rennlist.com/forums/graemlins/banghead.gif)
Sent them out to be cleaned anyway. L-Jet injectors are quite expensive compared to the S4 versions.
Replace all of the rubber hoses - even those at the back of the motor connected to the fuel pressure regulator. I would even replace the hoses that connect the solid lines from the tank to the fuel rail.
Remove the metal cup on both end of the hose and use a good quality, Eurospec Norma band clamp. Wurth makes the most common found at European repair shops.
To remove the little metal cups, use a hack saw. Cut on the flat portion, or the top of the cup part (hope this makes sense). Be careful not to cut into the fuel rail or injector. Once you are most of the way through, you can usually work it the rest of the way off with a needle nose. I usually make 2-3 cuts around the top.
Once those cups are off, you should be able to slice the hose length wise with a razor.
I wouldn't - our 928 vendors sell the correct hose for the job. 928 International sells a kit for this. I'm sure Roger does as well.
You also want to replace the two rubber gromets on the injector. One seals to the manifold. The other seats the injector into the holder that keeps the injector on the rail.
See above. I'll post a link to the clamps I'm talking about once I find them.
EDIT -
Here is the hose kit for the injectors. 928 International sells one piece of hose, once C-cup and one norma clap per injector. I use two norma clamps per injector, no C-cup. Doesn't really matter:
http://www.mailordercentral.com/928i...110%20903%2000
This is the larger gromet:
http://www.mailordercentral.com/928i...11%20133%20263
This is the small gromet:
http://www.mailordercentral.com/928i...0133%20261%20A
Good place to send your injectors (there is another place in Michigan I've used, cannot remember the name):
http://www.witchhunter.com/
Here are the Wurth clamps - The Domestic units work the same, the "regular" ones (bottom) look more appropriate on a P-Car:
https://shoponline.wurthusa.com/wurt...2296/catalog//
![banghead](https://rennlist.com/forums/graemlins/banghead.gif)
Replace all of the rubber hoses - even those at the back of the motor connected to the fuel pressure regulator. I would even replace the hoses that connect the solid lines from the tank to the fuel rail.
Once those cups are off, you should be able to slice the hose length wise with a razor.
You also want to replace the two rubber gromets on the injector. One seals to the manifold. The other seats the injector into the holder that keeps the injector on the rail.
See above. I'll post a link to the clamps I'm talking about once I find them.
EDIT -
Here is the hose kit for the injectors. 928 International sells one piece of hose, once C-cup and one norma clap per injector. I use two norma clamps per injector, no C-cup. Doesn't really matter:
http://www.mailordercentral.com/928i...110%20903%2000
This is the larger gromet:
http://www.mailordercentral.com/928i...11%20133%20263
This is the small gromet:
http://www.mailordercentral.com/928i...0133%20261%20A
Good place to send your injectors (there is another place in Michigan I've used, cannot remember the name):
http://www.witchhunter.com/
Here are the Wurth clamps - The Domestic units work the same, the "regular" ones (bottom) look more appropriate on a P-Car:
https://shoponline.wurthusa.com/wurt...2296/catalog//
#7
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Thanks Hacker................that is the info I was looking for.
I am a little worries about using a large hacksaw on the small cups though.
So the flat part, you mean the part of the cup that is closest to the rail as it sits on the line.
Make cuts horizontal then (cutting the same direction as the rail, horizontal to the hose).
Is there a more idiot proof method of removing the cups?
Thanks bunch!
I am a little worries about using a large hacksaw on the small cups though.
So the flat part, you mean the part of the cup that is closest to the rail as it sits on the line.
Make cuts horizontal then (cutting the same direction as the rail, horizontal to the hose).
Is there a more idiot proof method of removing the cups?
Thanks bunch!
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When I cut the cup, the flat part of the blade is rubbing on the rubber hose, with the teeth cutting down into the cup. I usually only cut about 95% of the way down (to avoid going through and hitting the rail) then work it the rest of the way off with a needle nose. It sounds odd until you try it.
Put the fuel rail in a vice with a lot of cardboard or something similar to protect it, hack away!! I usually use an air saw with a new blade.
If you know someone with a bead-blasing booth, I taped up the holes and blasted the rails, then painted them silver.
Put the fuel rail in a vice with a lot of cardboard or something similar to protect it, hack away!! I usually use an air saw with a new blade.
If you know someone with a bead-blasing booth, I taped up the holes and blasted the rails, then painted them silver.
#11
Nordschleife Master
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I actually don't cut the cups and then I reuse them (ones on the rail and inj that is).
So long as you ensure the hose you're buying is Gates 30R9 you will be fine.
Replace every rubber line in the engine bay!!!
So long as you ensure the hose you're buying is Gates 30R9 you will be fine.
Replace every rubber line in the engine bay!!!
#12
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I just used a sharp knife and needle nose pliers to remove the old fuel line from the injectors. The hose was so brittle it just split in half one you cut a small slit and pulled using the pliers. Then you can reuse the cups or take them off and use fuel clamps.
#13
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Funnelmaster: Member since 2010, thread resurection for his first post in May of 2012.
Contribution: "Use a dremel tool."
Thread win.
Contribution: "Use a dremel tool."
Thread win.
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