New Member- SoCal Stroker Society
#302
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#303
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Greg knocked me off the fence- I still need to bleed the clutch hydraulics on the GTS, might as well stick one of these in there now, WIAAT....
#304
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Some more reassembly this weekend, I put the wheels on it so it can be rolled out and turned around in the garage.
Rear end went back in today. (Still more cosmoline to clean
)
![](https://webfiles.uci.edu/redwards/public/GTS%20rear%20susp%20and%20tranny%20LR%201-24-10.jpg)
295's with the stock 38mm GTS spacers:
![](https://webfiles.uci.edu/redwards/public/GTS%20with%20Cup%204%27s%20rear%201-24-10.jpg)
I think they'll fit once it's on the ground......
Rear end went back in today. (Still more cosmoline to clean
![grr](https://rennlist.com/forums/graemlins/cussing.gif)
![](https://webfiles.uci.edu/redwards/public/GTS%20rear%20susp%20and%20tranny%20LR%201-24-10.jpg)
295's with the stock 38mm GTS spacers:
![](https://webfiles.uci.edu/redwards/public/GTS%20with%20Cup%204%27s%20rear%201-24-10.jpg)
I think they'll fit once it's on the ground......
![](https://webfiles.uci.edu/redwards/public/GTS%20wheels%20on%20left%20side%20profile%201-24-10.jpg)
#305
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295's will fit on a GTS.....in fact I think 295's will fit a stock S4 with the Carrera III 18x10x58mm wheels...I had 265/40 rears with plenty of room....take the spacer off and you can fit serious steam rollers like the widow has....thats just rolled GTS flares
#306
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The last major engine piece is in hand, got the ported intake from Greg last week and picked it up from PC yesterday.
![](https://webfiles.uci.edu/redwards/public/PC%27ed%20intake%20and%20VC%201-29-10.jpg)
![](https://webfiles.uci.edu/redwards/public/Stroker%20intake%20ported%20and%20PC%27ed%201-29-10.jpg)
![](https://webfiles.uci.edu/redwards/public/PC%27ed%20intake%20and%20VC%201-29-10.jpg)
![](https://webfiles.uci.edu/redwards/public/Stroker%20intake%20ported%20and%20PC%27ed%201-29-10.jpg)
![](https://webfiles.uci.edu/redwards/public/Stroker%20intake%20underside%20PC%27ed%201-29-10.jpg)
#307
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Now the frogs are all shiny.
Looks fantastic Rob! Why did they coat the mating surface (middle pic and no pun intended)?
Looks fantastic Rob! Why did they coat the mating surface (middle pic and no pun intended)?
#308
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Its ok, they can use the flappy diaphragm for protection.
As to the coating of the mating surface - I recall from the other thread that Rob's got some intake spacers too, blended to fit the covers and runner-side, so won't be using the stock gasket anyway? I'd guess that as they're using goo to seal it up, having a more durable coating on the intake was preferable (no edge to lift)?
#309
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The powder coating looks great.
My 88s intake had powder coating inside and on the sealing edges, I think they did it to prevent corrosion?? Or maybe it was just cheaper to paint the whole think without wasting time masking.
Rob
How does your valve cover look on the side that will be in contact with hot engine oil, is it powder coated too?
The original ones are powder coated, when I took mine off some of it was chipped off and probably mixed with engine oil.
I would love to powder coat but going to paint the outer surface with Duplicolor, have no idea what I should do with the other side of the valve covers.
My 88s intake had powder coating inside and on the sealing edges, I think they did it to prevent corrosion?? Or maybe it was just cheaper to paint the whole think without wasting time masking.
Rob
How does your valve cover look on the side that will be in contact with hot engine oil, is it powder coated too?
The original ones are powder coated, when I took mine off some of it was chipped off and probably mixed with engine oil.
I would love to powder coat but going to paint the outer surface with Duplicolor, have no idea what I should do with the other side of the valve covers.
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Dan-
Greg wanted the mating surface coated, partly 'cause its easier to seal against and partly 'cause it assures that you don't get any chips or parting lines along the edge when the tape comes off.
None of the internal surfaces of the intake or the valve covers are PC'ed, they're naked.
Greg wanted the mating surface coated, partly 'cause its easier to seal against and partly 'cause it assures that you don't get any chips or parting lines along the edge when the tape comes off.
None of the internal surfaces of the intake or the valve covers are PC'ed, they're naked.
#311
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That Greg and Xlot, are wise ones. That surface looks a little orange-peely though. Do you think there will be any surface mating issues?
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Hope not!
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#313
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In regards to the finish on the cam covers. I was wondering if we can find some type of filler material before paint or powder coating. For paint i think this would be easy, but maybe not so for PCing because of the heat that comes from that process.
When you plate something like a bumper, you fill in holes and imperfections with copper or some other alloy. I was thinking maybe we could do this to valve covers and intakes. Well at least the tops of the intake that you would see. The factory mag castings are rought and often imperfect. When you put as much time and effort into painting the thing it would be nice to have the base material nice and smooth.
Can anyone think of a way to fill the imperfections in these covers? I think the problem is that were using magnesium and you cant really weld onto it. But could we melt some type of solder into the rough areas and sand them down before paint? Or is there something else, perhaps a type of metal filler thats not metal but more like a bondo, although formulated to stick to magnesium and which would be strong enough to take the powder coating process and the daily grind of being underhood.
Any suggestions ?
#314
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Interesting comment from the PC'ers: Use JBWeld. It's rated for 400º+ so survives the heat setting as well as the engine temps, bonds well, shapes with a Dremel if needed.
#315
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hmmm never heard of it but ill check it out
Thanks Sterling
if this stuff so hard that you have to use a dremel or can it be shaped to fill with something like sandpaper?
Im wondering if it would be best to prime the bare covers first then apply then prime again to sandwich any fill material or if it would just stick best to the bare cover. I guess it depends on what you use to fill. What sterling suggested my have a different prep process than would JB weld.
Personally i am not a big fan of powder coating, although for the idea in question the powder coating is available in the surface texture and finish and color im looking for. Although I still think I would just use paint.
Thanks Sterling
Im wondering if it would be best to prime the bare covers first then apply then prime again to sandwich any fill material or if it would just stick best to the bare cover. I guess it depends on what you use to fill. What sterling suggested my have a different prep process than would JB weld.
Personally i am not a big fan of powder coating, although for the idea in question the powder coating is available in the surface texture and finish and color im looking for. Although I still think I would just use paint.