SharkSkin

Not saying this is the best way, but it worked very well for me(Starting with the rack removed):

1. Remove key and lock steering column.
2. Position wheel so it is straight with the column locked.
3. Place centering bolt in rack.
4. Lift rack into place, engaging u-joint as it goes up. If everything is centered and you are on the correct spline, it will slip right into place.
5. Create slot for pinch bolt in rack input shaft using dremel through bolt hole(be careful you don't grind the threads)
6. Insert and tighten pinch bolt.

This eliminates any guesswork as to whether the wheel is centered or whether the total assembly will end up centered. If the rack will slip into position easily, you have everything centered. If you're off a spline, the rack will bind against the mounting studs and it will be obvious at step #4 that you need to try a different location.

dr bob

I'm not so hot on the idea of dremeling the shaft through the bolt hole. Not enough room in my car with the rack in place, that's for sure.

One one out of several rack R&R's as part of MM & OPG projetcs, I had to drive/tap/hammer a flat-blade screwdriver end into the u-joint slot to get it opened a bit and started on the shaft. This was putting the original rack back in to the original coupling, no deformation of the shaft splines. FWIW, I usually take the top bolt out and remove the coupling with the rack. That way I can use a long brass drift to gently drive/tap/hammer the coupling back onto the intermediate steering shaft from the bottom. Tapping onto the coupling to drive it onto the pinion risks damage to bearings and seals, so it's generally frowned upon.

Getting the wheel ceneterd first time on a rebuilt rack is a crapshoot. The slots in the shafts need to be lined up so the bolts through the coupler pass through the slots. There is one correct and maybe two 'close enough' positions where the splines and bolts work just right. Once it's all together with the coupler and the slots in the shafts correct, center the rack with the centering bolt, and get the steering wheel as close to center as possible by pulling it and reinstalling it on the shaft splines on top. It may not be perfect, but if it's within half a spline there's no problem trimming the mismatch out during alignment.

Lloyd

The first time I replaced the rack, everything went very smooth. The second time it was a disaster. I believe I was more cautious the first time.

A. Don't worry about lining up the steering wheel. That can always be resolved later with a simple front end alignment. Drop the steering rack down. You may have to have it completely disconnected so you can SEE how it lines up.

B. It is VERY easy to bugger the splines. I screwed my splines up twice. If they are slightly damaged, the shaft will not go on. First, Remove the coupling from the steering shaft and inspect your coupling. If there is any damage, buy a used coupling for about $60. Test fit the new coupling. Spread the slot so it slides on easily. Lather it up with anti seize. The bolt must line up with the flats.

C. Mount coupling to the steering shaft. Slowly line up the steering rack to the coupling noting the location of the flat. Slide it in. Do not muscle it on.

928worldwide

I have done this job a few times and never had to unbolt the rack or the lines. Always did it with some good old fashioned elbow grease, a pry bar, and rubber mallet. Obviously it's not an easy job

GOOD LUCK! I hope you get it done quickly and painlessly.

SharkSkin

I assumed that the steering shaft had a similar groove for the bolt in the top part of the coupler. Looking at it, it definitely appeared that the bolt intersected the shaft. Not so? Anyway, I chose to alter the rack input shaft rather than the steering shaft, and I had no confidence that I could get it together as you described with everything lined up. I didn't want to disassemble the rack to attempt re-clocking the input shaft either. It was clear that it was clocked at an odd angle compared to the rack that came out. The second rack(first one leaked on installation) was clocked in yet another odd position.

It was tight getting the dremel in there, but I managed without damaging the u-joint. The bit kissed the inside of the bolt hole in a couple of spots but did not alter the shape of the hole. It's definitely not a spot where you want to get impatient or ham-fisted.

dr bob

Try not to depend on the alignment resolving significant errors in steering wheel position. Pll the steering wheel and get it as close to ceneters as you can, with the rack centering bolt installed and the rack pinned in centered position. Significant differences in tie rod lenghts will affect tire life, even though the wheel is centered and toe is set perfectly with the wheel centered. Why not finish your part of the job and center the wheel before you give it to the alignment shop?

OBehave

I removed the coupler like Dr.Bob from the int.shaft upon removal.Locked the steering wheel on center,centered the rack with centering bolt and installed it tapping with a brass punch.Worked out fine.Ed

redpathtribe

Is there a notch on the splined steering shaft that connects to the upper part of the u-joint that needs to be lined up like the lower one to the steering gear splined shaft?

928worldwide

Both stubs have grooves for the bolt. Other than that I don't think so. Where are you getting stuck? Are you using something like a prybar to wiggle the lower universal on? Need leverage there, unless you want to unbolt the rack like they are saying. Maybe just cut your losses and unbolt the rack if you can't get it done. No use having two bad nights in a row

redpathtribe

It's "stuck" with the rack bolted up, pressure lines on and the u-joint about 1/4" on the splined shaft (bolt is out of the u-joint). It's engaged enough that I can turn the rack with the steering wheel. I've tried prying carefully with a bar (old tire spoon, anyone remember those?) and tried tapping with a brass drift. Does not seem to want to move.

I hate to do it (take it all apart again), but I think I'll go with Bob and Stan's suggestion and after looking hard at the splines on the rebuilt rack, try lining it up and sliding it on with everything loose. Sounds like I should have expected to need to play with the steering wheel when I'm done. Need to search and find out how to pull the air bag and wheel to center it when I'm done.

928worldwide

Sorry I didn't realize you already had it on the shaft. YOU'RE ALMOST THERE!!!! Use a bigger pry bar and the job is done.... SO CLOSE You need to pry on one side, then switch 180deg and keep doing that until it's all the way on. If that doesn't work....I guess you'll be wrenching some more.

Bill Ball

Number two is the trick. The steering wheel will likely have to be removed and repositioned to get it to lock dead centered.

Bill Ball

I've had to do the same thing to spread the u-joint a few times. I agree about the crapshoot and it looks like the factory did as well based on my observations of two untouched racks being off a tooth. Even though the tie rod adjustment to correct this is miniscule, I still go the extra step to get the rack and steering wheel centered by shifting it over a tooth before I button it up if needed. It's funny - on a lot of other things I am "that's good enough".

jcorenman

It sounds like either the splines are either pre-buggered and not "splining", or the u-jount body is a bit cocked on the stub-shaft and binding under pressure. My concern with just pushing harder is that the u-joint body is aluminum, it would not be hard to chew up the splines if they are not lined up straight.

I really think you want to at least loosen the rack mounting (and disconnect hydraulics), so that you have a little wiggle-room.

I'm probably the minority here, but I don't see the need to fiddle with anything except the last u-joint fitting onto the steering rack. The racks are all carefully machined and all the same, the u-joint can only fit one way (+/- a spline, without dremeling), and the factory put the wheel on straight. So if you take out one rack and put in another, why should you need to change anything else?

There are two problems with that theory: One would be if you got a rack that was not indexed correctly, i.e. with the flat not at 9-oclock with the rack centered. If that's fixed then everything else should go back correctly. At worst you will be off one spline at the u-joint which is easily fixed-- just slip it apart, shift it one spline and reasemble.

The other possibility of course is that some PO has been down this road already and things have gotten a bit messed up.

jcorenman

Bill, I am thinking that the wheel is not supposed to be centered when locked. On our '88-- which I am certain has never had the steering wheel off-- the wheels locks at 45-deg left of center.

So if you rotate the steering shaft to lock it, then straighten the wheel, won't the u-joint be off at the rack? I'm confused...