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Amount of paint needed for complete repaint

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Old 02-26-2009, 09:28 AM
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Default Amount of paint needed for complete repaint

Trying to get a handle on the amount of base coat and clear coat needed for a complete repaint. One gallon base coat 1/2 gallon of clear coat is that about right?
Old 02-26-2009, 10:33 AM
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Sailmed
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Originally Posted by Tampa 928s
Trying to get a handle on the amount of base coat and clear coat needed for a complete repaint. One gallon base coat 1/2 gallon of clear coat is that about right?
It depends on how many times it takes to "get it right" with no runs or overspray...

That sounds about right mark IF your not changing from a dark to a light, or light to dark....
I'm re-painting the 87 and using 1 gallon for red on red...
Old 02-26-2009, 10:47 AM
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Dark to dark 1-gal sounds about right crap is very expensive!
Old 02-26-2009, 11:13 AM
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Originally Posted by Tampa 928s
Dark to dark 1-gal sounds about right crap is very expensive!
I had a friend that would paint his boat every year and complained about the price of Awl-grip I was selling. It's the best marine paint ( a few grades above Imron) and last at least 7 or 8 years in salt water enviroment and you never wax or buff.
You could always do what he did....
Use Rustoleum...
Old 02-26-2009, 11:19 AM
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Base is usually mixed 1:1 and clear is 3:1, I painted my 68' Road Runner with a half gallon of base (1 gallon total mixed). Base is just the color all the work is in the clear wet sanding, any orange peel, runs, etc then buffing so have more than a half gallon of clear.
Old 02-26-2009, 01:00 PM
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I'm sure you know that you can easily spend an equal amount on sealers, primers, abrasives and other prep chems. Plus all the sacrificial trim parts that need replacement like window, hatch, hood and door seals, beading and welting, etc. Masking, tacking, thinners and cleaning solvents. Finish coats may seem like the largest single-line items, but are only part of the total material costs of painting.

No need to ask me how I know...
Old 02-26-2009, 04:45 PM
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Some basecoats mix at 1:1, and others at 2:1. The other thing to consider, as dr bob mentioned, was that all the other stuff costs money as well. About the only thing that can be purchased in very small quantities is base coat. Most primers are sold in fixed amounts. For some things, you'll be able to buy products by the quart, and for others, you have to buy a gallon.

Changing from one color to another should not be an issue. Only lazy and/or cheap people have a problem changing from one color to another because they don't bother to use a sealer over the old paint. A lot of people think it's perfectly acceptable scuff it with a scotchbrite, wipe it down with prep-sol and then paint right over the old paint. Then they wonder with things are peeling and flaking 6 months later.
Old 02-26-2009, 05:52 PM
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Five gallons of Lucite and you can make a progressive pour and include tropical memorabilia simultaneously. G
Old 02-26-2009, 06:16 PM
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I am doing this right now, only not backyard painting. Very well equipped and professional shop. That being said, I have 1200.00 just in paint ,sealer, epoxy primer, etc. Not to mention 200.00+ in discs (paper). The job my car is getting, we would charge around 7500.00 for. If you don't know where to get the proper materials, you'll get a **** job. I have two weeks just in takedown, prep and finally primer, which I completely blocked down today. That alone is an 8 hr.job. I will be using the original single stage paint for the black car as there is a good reason Porsche did not use waterborne paints for many of their colors. If you are doing base/clear prepare yourself that you will not have the depth of color that the original paint had. Doesn't look too bad though.
My car will have multiple coats of single stage and CLEAR. You have to know the technique and products to do that though! Ever wonder how those hot rodders' get their showcar paint so deep and glossy? Anyway , that should be enough product to get you done, but better not forget to block your primer and use a good sealer before painting, and don't be afraid to spend some money. It makes a huge difference.
Old 02-26-2009, 06:37 PM
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Originally Posted by dr bob
I'm sure you know that you can easily spend an equal amount on sealers, primers, abrasives and other prep chems. Plus all the sacrificial trim parts that need replacement like window, hatch, hood and door seals, beading and welting, etc. Masking, tacking, thinners and cleaning solvents. Finish coats may seem like the largest single-line items, but are only part of the total material costs of painting.

No need to ask me how I know...
I've easily invested $1800 in the blue cars paint and materials... @ 3 coats base and 3 coats clear.
If you think that is expensive - you should see the materials listing for a 52' boat. Well over $100 a foot.
I would venture that the $100 foot cost in materials is a great estimate for anything.
How long is a 928.
Old 02-26-2009, 08:32 PM
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Originally Posted by Firemed
I've easily invested $1800 in the blue cars paint and materials... @ 3 coats base and 3 coats clear.
If you think that is expensive - you should see the materials listing for a 52' boat. Well over $100 a foot.
I would venture that the $100 foot cost in materials is a great estimate for anything.
How long is a 928.
BTDT on painting boats as well as cars. The boat painters, at least big boat painters, didn't seem to have the same interest as I did in getting stuff "just right". It takes some work to get it 'good', 10x that to get it 'great' and 5x that 'great' to get it 'just right'. The $100/ft for materials is an interesting way to estimate. For a first class "just right" job, labor will be worth another $300-$500/ft easily. Or just roll it over to Maaco, and let them paint it. Ouch!
Old 02-26-2009, 08:40 PM
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Bob, funny you should mention Maaco. I just bought an 82 for 500.00 that has a Maaco job on it. Receipt was in the glove comp. for 1140.00. It started as a 299er' then went up. IE; Ya want it taped? How 'bout your lights and glass? Ya want em' masked? and so on!
Old 02-26-2009, 09:09 PM
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So is it passable at 6 feet (the next lane)? $800 in masking and taping? That would be the Presidential Paint service, right?


I remember as a young student seeing a friend's car with one of those cheapo Earl Scheib specials. Choice of any color you want, so long as it's one of these six generaics, so every job was a color change. Two year warranty against everything except poor product or workmanship or damage or anything within or beyond the control of the painter. And you really got your money's worth because they painted EVERYTHING for you. They masked the glass but painted the trim and the rubber around the glass, lights, they painted the metal door handles and locks, the rubber door seals matched the rest of the car now, wheels and wheel covers, gas cap, antenna base, wiper bases, etc. Scuff, wash, spray, bake, drive away. Next!

I did a project in Riverside a few years ago, a power plant next to one of those Maaco shops. There was a grizzled 928 in the storage lot for a while. Then one day it was gone. They may have actually improved that one. It happens.
Old 02-26-2009, 09:32 PM
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Sterling, it could be base/clear with that color. you can acheive a similar effect to the single, but it requires many coats of base and even more coats of clear, and a lot of color sanding. Super expen$ive. Is this what they did? Another thing, in the brightest of sunlight does your car seem to "lose" a little color or some of its pop?
Old 02-26-2009, 10:26 PM
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I understand what this will take to do, I have the painting covered by MK he just did his car and it came out great. I have an expert to guide me and don't mind the grunt sanding. Seems like at a minimum, rear and front bumper sealing bead, sunroof seal, door seals and hope nothing gets bent when removing the trim.


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