Why do I consider it to be a superior method? It works, when other methods didn't yield the intended results. It's not a vacuum bleeder. It's basically a little gadget that works similar to doing the traditional two man bleeding procedure, except you only need one person. You attach the little bottle to the bleeder screw, open the valve and pump away. I'm not sure why I've had better success with it, then through other methods, but I have, and that's good enough for me.

What I consider to be the most expensive solution is having a dealer bleed the system at $100/hour with results that aren't guaranteed. I consider replacement master cylinders that may or may not have failed to be expensive solutions.

As for peace of mind about running the reservoir dry, I don't really worry about that because I possess common sense. I pump the pedal about five times, get out, have a look at the hose to see if there's air in it, look at the bottle to check that it's not overflowing, and top off the reservoir. It sounds more difficult then it really is.

Here's a bigger image that might be easier to see.
http://www.alltradetools.com/index.h...product_id/673

As I said before, I like it, because it has worked when other tools haven't. I'm not sure why. To be honest, I don't really care why. For $7 or $8, it's definitely something I'd try before shelling out money to the dealer, or spending it on a new master cylinder.

 

How would you "run the ABS"? I know there are relays in the driver side wheel well. And I see from the wiring diagram that they output to the ABS brain. Do you just pull one of the relays and do 30-87? Which one? I'd hate to fry the brain inadvertently.

 

I can't tell from the pictures what that is, and your description of a one man non-pressurized bleeding session makes no sense to me. But you sure have me curious. Is there somewhere else that devise is advertized that may have a description of it's use?

 

Charley,
It's called a "One-man brake bleed kit" availabe at just about any good autpparts store and Harbor Freight for around $5.

I have to agree that the power bleeder is good for swapping fluids, but I could not get a hard pedal using mine. I switched to using this one-man brake bleeder kit and had instant hard pedal. In theory, the ol' 2-man method should also work just as well.

As for Nicole's issues, don't forget that besides the 8 bleeder ports, each piston on the calipers is also a potential source for leaks. But t doesn't sound like fluid loss is the issue.... more like air in the system. I think you need to resort to the one-man or two-man method and pump the pedal like crazy.

 

Maybe a combination of both systems? Pressure bleeder attached and pumped up a little to maintain fluid in the reservoir after basic flushing, then attach the hose to a bleeder screw in the usual way. Make sure that the hose goes upward from the caliper to a bottle suspended on the coil spring. End of the hose needs to be submerged in fluid at the bottom of the bottle-- that's the method used by the little one-man bleeder here. They also make the hose inside very small diameter so the bubbles pass through that part quickly. Once rigged, you can jump on the pedal as fast and often as you like. Same old warning applies though: Bleed the MC first, and be aware that moisture absorbed in the fluid in an under-maintained system any time in its life, can cause corrosion and pitting in that normally-dormant area at the front of the master cylinder. When pedal bleeding, you always run the risk of pushing the fromt cylinder cups into those corroded areas where dirt and flakes also tend to gather.

I would like to use vacuum on my system to draw air bubbles out. I'm concerned about sucking air in past the master cylinder cups. It would be rearl simple for me to attach a pump to my cap adapter, the one I made for my home-brew pressure bleeder. It would also be way cool to get the ABS pump to run a little with bleeders cracked and the pressure bleeder attached. Need to figure out a way to dislodge bubbles in the cavities of the ABS unit, and that may be the way.

Like lots of things, the brake pedal has never been as high and hard as the first time I cycled new fluid through it.

 

First off, re-read post #6. Assuming there are no leaks elsewhere, it sounds like his MC is shot.

OK, I know exactly the kind of device you are talking about. When they work, they work well, but sometimes air can get sucked back in past the threads on the bleed screw. Sounds like it worked out well for you.

Bill, it's a bit more complicated than that. I would disconnect the ABS brain, then provide power to the pump and activate the solenoid for whichever circuit you are bleeding. I have an idea for a way to simplify this, will get back to you after I do a bit more head-scratching on the subject.

 

I'm very interested too, Dave.

Careful on that head-scratching though. I'm living proof that, after a while, all that hair that you scratch off thinking or tear out in frustration, it grows back looking a lot more like pink skin that hair. Trust me on this one.

 

Thanks for the advice Bob.

 

You could be quite right to suggest that the master cylinder is shot. But part of my reasoning for suggesting this method is that in case it isn't, purchasing this tool for a few dollars and giving it a shot isn't really a high risk gamble, and maybe it will solve the problem.

The only time I've ever had an issue with air entering around the bleeder screws is when I use a vacuum pump. That's part of why I stopped using the vacuum pump

 

Ive bought one of those one man brake bleeding kits from Halfords for £5.99 and I will give it a go. The brake master cylinder was fine before so there is always a chance Ive just got bubbles in the system.

 

Dr Bob remember, the more hair you lose the more head you get.
My guess is that your MC seals are now damaged from fully stroking your cylinder.
If the MC is older than lets say 5 years it s a good chance that its got corrosion on the bore, and uaully a full stroke drives the seals into the corroded area, I would suggest that use only ATE brake fluid either the super blue or the golden

 

You can also pressure-bleed from the other end...

This is not for normal bleeding - this is for those problem cases.

Get a trigger-operated oil can and some small plastic line. Fill the (clean) oil can with your choice of brake fluid. Snap one end of the line on the snout of the oil can, the other end onto a bleed screw.

Use a baster or similar bulb-type device to suck most of the fluid from the brake reservoir.

Open the bleed screw and pump fluid up thru the system into the reservoir. Close the bleed screw. Empty the reservoir, move to the next bleed screw. Repeat as required.

When finished, empty the oil can and wash it out.

 

One of the techniques we had tried was to use the PowerBleeder AND pump at the same time. It got a few more tiny bubbles out, but the improvement in pedal feel was minimal.

I hope someone can educate us enough in how to trigger the ABS pump while bleeding.

 

Stay tuned...

 

Im using the ATE racing blue, but Im thinking I should be bledding it with cheaper stuff as its £13 a pop. I might just change the seals in the cylinder anyway just to be sure, do you know the name of the kit, Im sure ive seen it on here before but the link didnt work. I reckon the master cylinder in mine will be about 20 years plus. Do you think I should just buy a new one, I can get it for £160ish probably