blown 87

No doubt you can see the holes.
No way would I take them off with out planning to weld the holes up (or glue) and paint.

WallyP

For the cutting line, I would suggest getting braided fishing line, such as Spiderwire, in the smallest diameter available. WARNING! Do NOT try to do this with your bare hands. It will cut you! Tie the line to a handle of some kind on both ends. Very, very strong, very thin line.

F451

I'm pretty sure porken had some pics of his setup, and if the holes are left open, they are very obvious. Ken put some body colored plastic buttons that are just raised from the body, I haven't seen it myself, but I recall he said from 10 feet it looks good, from closer you can see them obviously. I think this was a short term solution for him.

rawky

Interesting, that's what I thought would be the way to do it, do you know where the pics are? I've tried search but to no avail...

Cheers
Simon

Tampa 928s

Since I recently did this I used a thin metal wire with gloves. Did a little at a time when off used goo-b-gone, a sticker remover to get the old tape off. I am putting mine back on don't want Suv door rash!

OrionKhan

+1, I remember Porken doing that also. He did post some pics of how it looked with the plugs. You might want to do a search for posts by him or just pm him.

Nevermind that...I found the post: https://rennlist.com/forums/928-foru...ip-delete.html

Nicholbry

Although I've read several threads regarding the subject I can't seem to find anywhere an image of the hardware that is anchoring the rub strips. I read somewhere about a "screw (rusty) with a nut". If that is the case, does the inside door panel need to be removed to get at this nut/screw. Or, is the rub strip held in place with plastic anchors that are easily removable?

I got the point regarding dental floss/fishing line, but I'm still not clear on how to tackle the anchors at the ends. I don't want to dent the aluminum by pulling on something in the wrong fashion.

My passenger door's strip is lifting and needs some attention. Any help would be much appreciated....a picture would be...well, worth a thousand words.

Thanks,

S4ordie

Looks like a 6-8mm hole at the leading and trailing edge of the door. Same for the front fenders and rear quarters. Here are some pics of my current paint project.

Fabio421

Be carefull with that Goo Gone. It ruined my paint. The clear is flaking off everywhere the goo gone touched it.

aggravation

WD-40 works pretty well for dissolving a lot of glue type material. It's slow but usually harmless to the finish.

Nicholbry

Dan H., thanks for posting some pics. At least this way I can tell roughly what size holes I'm dealing with. Porken's variety of size plugs he used to fill his holes at one time suggested different size holes (although they may have been on his OB vs your S4). In the second pic, the leading edge of the door suggests a rectangular clip is used (likely on all the holes). I wish you the best of results on your repaint.

I'm still curious how the hardware is designed that attaches the rub strip. I wonder if it is something that must be dealt with from the inner panels and pushed through to the outside; or if the hardware can be removed from the outside? Also, are we dealing with metal screws vs. plastic clips, etc.?

Thanks for the help.

S4ordie

Nicholas - as the body/paint work is being completed some distance away from me I can't readily get to the car for more information. I'd suspect the dismantler community would have some ready answers to these questions. Might be they are not reading this post. I'd PM them as surely they have doors sitting around that could easily be checked.

Dan

Mrmerlin

the hardware for the door strips is hidden under the door edge seal they need to be lifted and then you can see the 6 mm nut on a stud

Nicholbry

Thanks Mrmerlin. I'll see if I can't lift the molding enough to see what I'm dealing with.

Good idea Dan. I may do that if I can't figure it out after handling it some more. Thanks for helping and offering up your pics from the body shop.

Mrmerlin

also put a strip of blue tape alongside each edge of the molding this will prevent scratching.
PB blaster seems to work very well for softening the glue on the DBT=double back tape, spray some along the edges prior to sliding the wire under the moldings