rub strip removal without harming strips?
02-02-2009, 05:10 PM
#1
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Myrtle Beach, South Carolina
Posts: 1,203
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
rub strip removal without harming strips?
I have pretty nice looking black paint so I don't want to have to repaint the car just for the sake of having removed the strips. I'd like to remove the strips and see how I like it without filling the holes, or filling with something that doesn't require a repaint, preserving the ability to put them back on if necessary.
Right now only the front 10 inches of the drivers door strip is loose including the fastener prong attached to the strip will come right out of the hole if I pull on it lightly, maybe some part of the fastening system is worn out.
I've read about heat guns and fish line to remove the strips but can they be taken off in a way they can be reused? The strips look like they were off the car when the car was repainted because the surface under the loose part looks pretty good except for the obvious glue/tape area. I don't know if the strips were painted or not, they match the paint perfectly and are in good condition.
Right now only the front 10 inches of the drivers door strip is loose including the fastener prong attached to the strip will come right out of the hole if I pull on it lightly, maybe some part of the fastening system is worn out.
I've read about heat guns and fish line to remove the strips but can they be taken off in a way they can be reused? The strips look like they were off the car when the car was repainted because the surface under the loose part looks pretty good except for the obvious glue/tape area. I don't know if the strips were painted or not, they match the paint perfectly and are in good condition.
02-02-2009, 05:19 PM
#2
They usually come off with taking the double stick tape half with them, and leaving half on the care. You can also just remove these strips and not really worry about breaking the paint as the plastic clips will break first.
They technically just pop out, and I have never damaged paint removing them. The hard part is getting the double sided foam tape off the car.
They technically just pop out, and I have never damaged paint removing them. The hard part is getting the double sided foam tape off the car.
02-02-2009, 05:31 PM
#3
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Myrtle Beach, South Carolina
Posts: 1,203
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Is there a point at which you could bend the strip too much be able to reuse it? I'm thinking they might get wrinkled or bent on the surface. How fragile are they?
I imagine the glue residue on the car will be dealt with with WD40 or some solvent like that combined with patience and elbow grease....
I imagine the glue residue on the car will be dealt with with WD40 or some solvent like that combined with patience and elbow grease....
02-02-2009, 05:36 PM
#4
Addict
Rennlist Member
Rennlist
Site Sponsor
Rennlist Member
Rennlist
Site Sponsor
If you pull them off you will probably bend them too much (they band right back) but the paint will crack especially if they were painted over the original finish.
02-02-2009, 05:58 PM
#5
Yes, they do bend, and therefore can break the paint. The plastic itself is very flexible. The paint, obviously, is not.
Usually there is a bit of paint different right around the area.
Usually there is a bit of paint different right around the area.
02-02-2009, 06:38 PM
#6
Three Wheelin'
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Banished to the SBC Wastelands
Posts: 1,578
Likes: 0
Received 4 Likes
on
3 Posts
Heavy duty fishing line or even dental floss is the way to go. You'll have the least amount of tape left on the car. I took mine off with Dental floss.
But it has to be mint flavored.
But it has to be mint flavored.
02-02-2009, 06:55 PM
#7
Drifting
+1 on the dental floss/fishing line suggestion. Any residue left over can be removed with a solvent like lacquer thinner or mineral spirits. Or you could try a solvent based polishing compound. They are very flexible so you do need to be mindful of cracking the paint on them like Jim mentioned.
Trending Topics
02-02-2009, 08:44 PM
#9
Team Owner
Try This, This is how I removed them with no damage to any of the parts.
I would recommend that you first add some blue tape to either side of the molding, to protect the paint.
Spray a good amount of PB blaster along the top and bottom of the molding. remove the molding securing nut on the rear edge of the door its under the door WX strip.
Then with a heat gun and a helper , and either 40 lb test fishing line, dental floss or thin mechanics wire slip the line under the front edge of the molding, and heat it and respray the PB as you move along.
DONT try to pull the molding away from the door more than a few inches,as you slide the line, the PB will lubricate the wire and thus there should be no paint damage and the molding will be straight when they are off,
If you try to bend the molding away from the car the paint on it will crack and the metal liner will also take on a curl thats very hard to restraighten.\
To clean the molding use a soft towl to lay the molding on the spray a liberal amount of PB blaster onto the DBST this can soak for about 30 mins then with a hard plastic scraper it should peel off, degrease the edge and refit new tape if your putting the moldings back on.
Run a long piece of tape to set your line on the car
I would recommend that you first add some blue tape to either side of the molding, to protect the paint.
Spray a good amount of PB blaster along the top and bottom of the molding. remove the molding securing nut on the rear edge of the door its under the door WX strip.
Then with a heat gun and a helper , and either 40 lb test fishing line, dental floss or thin mechanics wire slip the line under the front edge of the molding, and heat it and respray the PB as you move along.
DONT try to pull the molding away from the door more than a few inches,as you slide the line, the PB will lubricate the wire and thus there should be no paint damage and the molding will be straight when they are off,
If you try to bend the molding away from the car the paint on it will crack and the metal liner will also take on a curl thats very hard to restraighten.\
To clean the molding use a soft towl to lay the molding on the spray a liberal amount of PB blaster onto the DBST this can soak for about 30 mins then with a hard plastic scraper it should peel off, degrease the edge and refit new tape if your putting the moldings back on.
Run a long piece of tape to set your line on the car
02-02-2009, 08:54 PM
#10
Cottage Industry Sponsor
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
Be very careful with the heat gun - it could get too hot quickly. A hair dryer is safer...
I like the idea with the dental floss; will try that next time I have to replace some trim tape.
Once everything is warm, you can often take off the remaining glue by rubbing it with your finger. I usually use the thinner at the very end, to remove the bits of glue that I can't get off otherwise.
I like the idea with the dental floss; will try that next time I have to replace some trim tape.
Once everything is warm, you can often take off the remaining glue by rubbing it with your finger. I usually use the thinner at the very end, to remove the bits of glue that I can't get off otherwise.
06-13-2009, 10:36 AM
#15
Rennlist Member
What worked for me:
1. Heat gun directed above and below the strip to heat up the door, rather than trying to heat the weather strip. No need to scorch -just very warm.
2. Body filler spreader used like a spatula, being careful to avoid bending the strip away from the body as much as possible. After several inches are free, use a long strip of masking tape to hold the freed end loosely in position so it doesn't droop and bend, which will crack the paint and put a kink/divit in the strip which cannot be worked out. More tape as the strip breaks free.
3. If you don't have 3M General Purpose Adhesive Cleaner (08984), get some. It's made for body work, and a quart should last years. It's great stuff to have on hand, works on virtually all adhesives, removes silicones and waxes, and you don't have to experiment with whatever else is around until you find something that removes what you're working on.
4. 3M makes a large selection of double-sided tapes designed for this application. The key here is the thickness, because you don't want a gap on the top and bottom which will allow dirt to collect. If I remember, there are two slightly recessed grooves molded into the backside of the strips where the tape belongs.
I've gotten lucky and not had to replace the adhesive on the strip, but also had to replace them. I'm sure there are better processes and materials out there, but had very good results the way described.
1. Heat gun directed above and below the strip to heat up the door, rather than trying to heat the weather strip. No need to scorch -just very warm.
2. Body filler spreader used like a spatula, being careful to avoid bending the strip away from the body as much as possible. After several inches are free, use a long strip of masking tape to hold the freed end loosely in position so it doesn't droop and bend, which will crack the paint and put a kink/divit in the strip which cannot be worked out. More tape as the strip breaks free.
3. If you don't have 3M General Purpose Adhesive Cleaner (08984), get some. It's made for body work, and a quart should last years. It's great stuff to have on hand, works on virtually all adhesives, removes silicones and waxes, and you don't have to experiment with whatever else is around until you find something that removes what you're working on.
4. 3M makes a large selection of double-sided tapes designed for this application. The key here is the thickness, because you don't want a gap on the top and bottom which will allow dirt to collect. If I remember, there are two slightly recessed grooves molded into the backside of the strips where the tape belongs.
I've gotten lucky and not had to replace the adhesive on the strip, but also had to replace them. I'm sure there are better processes and materials out there, but had very good results the way described.