Atlanta Area Timing Belt & Water Pump Party - March 27/28
#76
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Sorry you're going to miss it Mark. I hope everything is well with the family. I'm sure we'll see you soon at another local event.
I've been talking to another local 928 owner about a pod and dash swapping party sometime soon. He wants to replace his pod and dash and I need to replace two pods and one dash. I really like the look of the vinyl dash that Rob Budd posted here not too long ago. The 89 GT needs a new pod and the Murano S4 needs both pod and dash. The fun never stops.
I've been talking to another local 928 owner about a pod and dash swapping party sometime soon. He wants to replace his pod and dash and I need to replace two pods and one dash. I really like the look of the vinyl dash that Rob Budd posted here not too long ago. The 89 GT needs a new pod and the Murano S4 needs both pod and dash. The fun never stops.
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#77
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Well if things go like I'm thinking right now (watch out), I'll be hosting an engine pull party sometime in the summer. Time to address a few deficiencies. And who knows I may still make it. The family thing will be hit and miss, but I have to plan for it. The cam towers are coming off as soon as I get back to the states and I just may do the basic fix right now to get the car back on the road.
#78
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So would I need to be prepared with any other supplies other than the Porkensioner? I know there is a laundry list of parts and while your at it items from earlier in this post but if I'm just putting on the porkensioner I shouldn't need to order anything else to bring along?
#79
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Just re-read the posts and came across Dr. Bob's list of coolant system refresh stuff:
Mike--
My TB routine includes replacement of ALL the coolant hoses. Age deterioration factor is similar to the TB, plus you'll have a couple of the big ones off already and the coolant will be drained. Of course that means a new heater valve too and the stub connector to the head. The collection of hoses includes the to/from the heater across the back, the jumpers between the reservoir and the metal pipes on the fenderwell, and the jumpers between the metal pipes and the engine in the front. The two small vapor vents too. And the coolant pressure switch in the vent line just forward of the reservoir. And a new coolant bottle cap. Jim B put all these hose in a "care package" for me, along with cam and oil pump seals, the little guide bearings under the crank nose and the two little retainer clips for them. Look carefully at the gears on the cams and the one on the oil pump. Anything resembling wear of the anodized coating on the cam gears means replacement needed. Ol pump gear wear is pretty obvious too. Get the guide washers for the crank gear. Borrow or buy a Porken cam timing tool, too Easy enough to touch-up the cam timing while all the covers are off and easy access.
Look at caps and rotors now with an eye to replacement. They will be off and easy to check and replace if necessary.
Get all new water pump bolts to install with the new pump.
Thermostat and two seals-- one is the ring behind, plus the o-ring in front.
Get a little hylomar or similar gasket sealer to hold the WP gaskets in place. Glue only on the pump side please, so the gasket sticks to the pump on removal; the rebuilder can wrestle with that easily enough next time a pump is swapped on.
Get a tube of teflon pipe sealant paste in a tube from the local H-D. For the tensioner bolts where they penetrate the block galleys.
Got any hints of PS leakage? Now's the time to replace any hoses and of course the reservoir/filter. The pump will be much more easily accessible during the belt process while the alt/PS console is loose from the front of the block. Reservoir and the hoses undernat much easier while the fan console is out.
Stock up on your favorite coolant, distilled water, and water wetter in advance of the project.
There's an o-ring on the dipstick tube where it connects with the bock and oil sump. Replace it.
Plenty of Brake Kleen. If you can, a thorough bottom- and front-of-the-engine cleaning in advance of the surgeon's arrival will make things a lot more pleasant.
Cut a double-layer piece of corrugated board to fit in the back of the radiator for protection. Wide masking tape holds it in place.
Drain the coolant from the radiator and the block galleys before you move the car to the working area. No need to swim in coolant residue under the car.
My TB routine includes replacement of ALL the coolant hoses. Age deterioration factor is similar to the TB, plus you'll have a couple of the big ones off already and the coolant will be drained. Of course that means a new heater valve too and the stub connector to the head. The collection of hoses includes the to/from the heater across the back, the jumpers between the reservoir and the metal pipes on the fenderwell, and the jumpers between the metal pipes and the engine in the front. The two small vapor vents too. And the coolant pressure switch in the vent line just forward of the reservoir. And a new coolant bottle cap. Jim B put all these hose in a "care package" for me, along with cam and oil pump seals, the little guide bearings under the crank nose and the two little retainer clips for them. Look carefully at the gears on the cams and the one on the oil pump. Anything resembling wear of the anodized coating on the cam gears means replacement needed. Ol pump gear wear is pretty obvious too. Get the guide washers for the crank gear. Borrow or buy a Porken cam timing tool, too Easy enough to touch-up the cam timing while all the covers are off and easy access.
Look at caps and rotors now with an eye to replacement. They will be off and easy to check and replace if necessary.
Get all new water pump bolts to install with the new pump.
Thermostat and two seals-- one is the ring behind, plus the o-ring in front.
Get a little hylomar or similar gasket sealer to hold the WP gaskets in place. Glue only on the pump side please, so the gasket sticks to the pump on removal; the rebuilder can wrestle with that easily enough next time a pump is swapped on.
Get a tube of teflon pipe sealant paste in a tube from the local H-D. For the tensioner bolts where they penetrate the block galleys.
Got any hints of PS leakage? Now's the time to replace any hoses and of course the reservoir/filter. The pump will be much more easily accessible during the belt process while the alt/PS console is loose from the front of the block. Reservoir and the hoses undernat much easier while the fan console is out.
Stock up on your favorite coolant, distilled water, and water wetter in advance of the project.
There's an o-ring on the dipstick tube where it connects with the bock and oil sump. Replace it.
Plenty of Brake Kleen. If you can, a thorough bottom- and front-of-the-engine cleaning in advance of the surgeon's arrival will make things a lot more pleasant.
Cut a double-layer piece of corrugated board to fit in the back of the radiator for protection. Wide masking tape holds it in place.
Drain the coolant from the radiator and the block galleys before you move the car to the working area. No need to swim in coolant residue under the car.
#80
Race Car
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So would I need to be prepared with any other supplies other than the Porkensioner? I know there is a laundry list of parts and while your at it items from earlier in this post but if I'm just putting on the porkensioner I shouldn't need to order anything else to bring along?
Dan
'91 928GT S/C
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#81
Drifting
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Well...I'm not going to be in the area as I had wished.
I wish someone would video tape these tech sessions you guys have for the rest of us that can't make them....That would be so cool. Short shot of each step with the correct tool. Could edit down to just a few minutes for each job. Download to you-tube and post them!!! Would someone consider that next time? I know its work but after awhile there may be quite a library of videos.
Even the pod and dash removal you have planned would be nice to have in a step by step video.
I wish someone would video tape these tech sessions you guys have for the rest of us that can't make them....That would be so cool. Short shot of each step with the correct tool. Could edit down to just a few minutes for each job. Download to you-tube and post them!!! Would someone consider that next time? I know its work but after awhile there may be quite a library of videos.
Even the pod and dash removal you have planned would be nice to have in a step by step video.
#82
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I'd love to record it but I don't think have the video equipment to do a very good job of it. I've got a few X10 cameras that were left at the house as part of a security monitoring system. It's not my field, but I'll see if I can come up with something. I agree that it would be a great resource for everyone to have access to.
#83
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Usually the oil pump, crank and camshaft radial seals are also replaced during a timing belt job; was that done already?
#84
In Your Face, Ace
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So would I need to be prepared with any other supplies other than the Porkensioner? I know there is a laundry list of parts and while your at it items from earlier in this post but if I'm just putting on the porkensioner I shouldn't need to order anything else to bring along?
#85
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If you contact Roger, he can send you a spread sheet for what parts you need to do it both ways and you can calculate the price difference.
#86
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When I had the front of my engine apart, there was no reason to NOT go with Ken's tensioner. It's so easy to assemble and install it's a complete no-brainer. It won't require maintenance, will maintain constant tension, and it takes about 3 seconds to release the tension to change the belt. I'm pulling the driver's cam tower tomorrow and at least getting the timing belt loose will be very easy. Worth the extra money if you ask me.
#87
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Can someone please provide insight to the details of removing the smog pump while doing the Porkensioner upgrade?
The car is already 'catless' so removing the pump when doing the upgrade would make sense.
TIA
The car is already 'catless' so removing the pump when doing the upgrade would make sense.
TIA
#88
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Easy. One of the bolts for the tensioner is also the standoff boss for the smog pump. You can order Ken's kit to be used with a smog pump or without, which basically means it comes with a spacer to replace the smog pump boss and a long bolt. The only other issue is the smog pump belt is also the fan belt, so removing the pump means using a shorty belt instead, which Roger also stocks. FWIW I don't know if it's the removal of the pump or the installation of the y-pipe, but the engine seems to rev a lot more freely now - probably a combination of both.
#89
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Easy. One of the bolts for the tensioner is also the standoff boss for the smog pump. You can order Ken's kit to be used with a smog pump or without, which basically means it comes with a spacer to replace the smog pump boss and a long bolt. The only other issue is the smog pump belt is also the fan belt, so removing the pump means using a shorty belt instead, which Roger also stocks. FWIW I don't know if it's the removal of the pump or the installation of the y-pipe, but the engine seems to rev a lot more freely now - probably a combination of both.
#90
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So does this mean that Gary will be changing his belt at the party? I recall the last PM you sent said that you weren't sure.