Mike--

My TB routine includes replacement of ALL the coolant hoses. Age deterioration factor is similar to the TB, plus you'll have a couple of the big ones off already and the coolant will be drained. Of course that means a new heater valve too and the stub connector to the head. The collection of hoses includes the to/from the heater across the back, the jumpers between the reservoir and the metal pipes on the fenderwell, and the jumpers between the metal pipes and the engine in the front. The two small vapor vents too. And the coolant pressure switch in the vent line just forward of the reservoir. And a new coolant bottle cap. Jim B put all these hose in a "care package" for me, along with cam and oil pump seals, the little guide bearings under the crank nose and the two little retainer clips for them. Look carefully at the gears on the cams and the one on the oil pump. Anything resembling wear of the anodized coating on the cam gears means replacement needed. Ol pump gear wear is pretty obvious too. Get the guide washers for the crank gear. Borrow or buy a Porken cam timing tool, too Easy enough to touch-up the cam timing while all the covers are off and easy access.

Look at caps and rotors now with an eye to replacement. They will be off and easy to check and replace if necessary.

Get all new water pump bolts to install with the new pump.

Thermostat and two seals-- one is the ring behind, plus the o-ring in front.

Get a little hylomar or similar gasket sealer to hold the WP gaskets in place. Glue only on the pump side please, so the gasket sticks to the pump on removal; the rebuilder can wrestle with that easily enough next time a pump is swapped on.

Get a tube of teflon pipe sealant paste in a tube from the local H-D. For the tensioner bolts where they penetrate the block galleys.

Got any hints of PS leakage? Now's the time to replace any hoses and of course the reservoir/filter. The pump will be much more easily accessible during the belt process while the alt/PS console is loose from the front of the block. Reservoir and the hoses undernat much easier while the fan console is out.

Stock up on your favorite coolant, distilled water, and water wetter in advance of the project.

There's an o-ring on the dipstick tube where it connects with the bock and oil sump. Replace it.

Plenty of Brake Kleen. If you can, a thorough bottom- and front-of-the-engine cleaning in advance of the surgeon's arrival will make things a lot more pleasant.

Cut a double-layer piece of corrugated board to fit in the back of the radiator for protection. Wide masking tape holds it in place.


Drain the coolant from the radiator and the block galleys before you move the car to the working area. No need to swim in coolant residue under the car.

Usually the oil pump, crank and camshaft radial seals are also replaced during a timing belt job; was that done already?

If you contact Roger, he can send you a spread sheet for what parts you need to do it both ways and you can calculate the price difference.