GTS died
#107
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Well, I know I checked for this before, but i can't guarantee that this is the relay terminal I checked previously. I could have sworn this was the one, but now when I just checked it, there is NO voltage at pin 87. (I think I'm starting to lose my mind
)
So obviously, this means the alarm has disabled the ignition circuit. Now what do I do?
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So obviously, this means the alarm has disabled the ignition circuit. Now what do I do?
#108
Electron Wrangler
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Keith Pin 86 - not Pin 87 ?? Pin 87 is the relay output (no relay => no output)
If pin 86 is not at ~12v with the ignition on you have an alarm problem...
To bridge around this link CE Pins N11 & D14
Alan
If pin 86 is not at ~12v with the ignition on you have an alarm problem...
To bridge around this link CE Pins N11 & D14
Alan
#109
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Sorry, I just have so much going on right now that I'm not focusing well enough (I need a vacation!)
Pin 86 has 11.51 volts with the ignition on (just before stater engagement)
Guess that rules out alarm.
Pin 86 has 11.51 volts with the ignition on (just before stater engagement)
Guess that rules out alarm.
#111
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I took a few minutes to check the MAF plug, looks brand new, no cuts, frays or shorts and is well sealed with the factory glue under the harness boot.
Threw the multi meter to the MAF, actually both MAF's and they read the 1 meg ohms as John showed on his. I even checked various other pins to see and compare to each other and they both respond the same. So, the MAF issue is out.
I must be missing something. Unless I can come up with another direction to head, I will have to start over from the beginning and check every item again.
Threw the multi meter to the MAF, actually both MAF's and they read the 1 meg ohms as John showed on his. I even checked various other pins to see and compare to each other and they both respond the same. So, the MAF issue is out.
I must be missing something. Unless I can come up with another direction to head, I will have to start over from the beginning and check every item again.
#113
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If you have fuel pressure and spark, I would look for the signal from the crank position sensor getting to the LH. You may have ruled out the component but not the path. BTW, it should be a strong square wave, not just a blip on a scope.
#114
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Doesn't sound like it's anything obvious....I would just make sure the battery is charged fully...get in...crank the sucker...and hold the pedal to the floor..keep cranking
... it'll start
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#115
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Did you try Dr. Bob's suggestion? I recall you tried to jumper or disconnect? the TempII sensor to make sure it was good. However, this may not do anything to help. I would just remove the fuel pump fuse and try and start the car for 30 seconds or so to see if it will catch. That way you can 100% rule out a flooded engine.
Dan
'91 928GT S/C
475hp/460lb.ft
Dan
'91 928GT S/C
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#116
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Plugs weren't wet. I swapped the Temp II sensor with one from another of my cars that works fine and it made no change.
I don't have a scope to see the signal from the CPS to the LH. Any other way around this?
I don't have a scope to see the signal from the CPS to the LH. Any other way around this?
#117
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Keith--
Stoopid stuff....
The FI power feed to pump and injectors is through dedicated power feeds from the battery, along with the cooling fans. IF by chance the connection in the battery well is not great, you'll get no injection; either the pump or the injectors or both. John Pirtle went through this last year, and denied it could be the problem even after inspecting the connections. Once he took them apart, cleaned and tightened those 'extra' wires to the battery positive, the car started. Again, stupid stuff, but sometimes that's what gets us. I hope it's that simple!
Stoopid stuff....
The FI power feed to pump and injectors is through dedicated power feeds from the battery, along with the cooling fans. IF by chance the connection in the battery well is not great, you'll get no injection; either the pump or the injectors or both. John Pirtle went through this last year, and denied it could be the problem even after inspecting the connections. Once he took them apart, cleaned and tightened those 'extra' wires to the battery positive, the car started. Again, stupid stuff, but sometimes that's what gets us. I hope it's that simple!
#120
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sorry..but after many posts you get lost in what has been tried or not.
Bottom line appears to be that......
The engine cranks.
The RPM does flicker when cranked.
We have spark.
We have a good fuel pump.
Yes, we have gas in the tank.
We have fuel pressure in the rails.
We DO NOT have wet plugs...or a rich smell after cranking
THE CAR IS NOT FLOODED. It is not getting fuel.... there for it will NEVER FLOOD and cranking it with a foot to the floor will never help.
From what i gather...
The fuel IS NOT getting into the cylinders.
The injectors are not firing....
however, HAS THIS YET BEEN DETERMINED???? by listening to them..noid light??
The LH has been swapped into antoher car...it is apparently OK....correct?
It is NOT the temp II sensor as it "shouldnt" cause the injectors not to fire, it would actuallly cause an extremly RICH mixture....trust me..you would smell it. BTDT
Its looking like it IS NOT the MAF.
You have seemed to have ruled out the alarm (my car hasnt got one so i really havent followed the trouble shoots there.)
FYI..i have 4 new relays in my glove box right now. Ive been chasing down an intermittent miss. My warm start issue appears to have gone..WHY?? i have no clue?. Every time the car misses now i litterally pull over and swap in a new relay. First one i swapped was the other day , the LH.....so far the problem hasnt cropped up again. Next i will swap the the EZK....then RELAY X....etc etc. until hopefully the issue is gone for good?
Perhaps get 4 new relays and replace the LH..EZK...IGN X...and get a spare.
Ive done it before but i have pulled every single fuse out of that panel and checked it for continuity...low and behold, one that didnt look bad, WAS.
Check ALL fuses.
I feel for you ..the BS of chasing down gremlins gets old after a while.![Cheers](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/beerchug.gif)
anyone with a Sharktuner up there?
Bottom line appears to be that......
The engine cranks.
The RPM does flicker when cranked.
We have spark.
We have a good fuel pump.
Yes, we have gas in the tank.
We have fuel pressure in the rails.
We DO NOT have wet plugs...or a rich smell after cranking
THE CAR IS NOT FLOODED. It is not getting fuel.... there for it will NEVER FLOOD and cranking it with a foot to the floor will never help.
From what i gather...
The fuel IS NOT getting into the cylinders.
The injectors are not firing....
however, HAS THIS YET BEEN DETERMINED???? by listening to them..noid light??
The LH has been swapped into antoher car...it is apparently OK....correct?
It is NOT the temp II sensor as it "shouldnt" cause the injectors not to fire, it would actuallly cause an extremly RICH mixture....trust me..you would smell it. BTDT
Its looking like it IS NOT the MAF.
You have seemed to have ruled out the alarm (my car hasnt got one so i really havent followed the trouble shoots there.)
FYI..i have 4 new relays in my glove box right now. Ive been chasing down an intermittent miss. My warm start issue appears to have gone..WHY?? i have no clue?. Every time the car misses now i litterally pull over and swap in a new relay. First one i swapped was the other day , the LH.....so far the problem hasnt cropped up again. Next i will swap the the EZK....then RELAY X....etc etc. until hopefully the issue is gone for good?
Perhaps get 4 new relays and replace the LH..EZK...IGN X...and get a spare.
Ive done it before but i have pulled every single fuse out of that panel and checked it for continuity...low and behold, one that didnt look bad, WAS.
Check ALL fuses.
I feel for you ..the BS of chasing down gremlins gets old after a while.
![Cheers](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/beerchug.gif)
anyone with a Sharktuner up there?