Any special tips or tricks?

Can I use plain ol' teflon tape to seal it? Water or NG type make a difference?

How to get rid of the air bubble? The gauge label says it is filled with glycerine. Can I add more glycerine into the filler port?

It also instructs to cut off the nib on the filling port after installing the guage to vent the air from the gauge.

That doesn't seem right.

 

Dont attempt to loose the air bubble, you will be waisting your time.

Also dont cut the nib off, Just use plain old teflon tape to seal it to the adapter bung and thread onto rail. Dont mess with anything else.

 

Care to clarify that remark?

 

If you've got the adapter you don't need to use any sealing tape. At least I've not on mine.

I some how lost the rubber plug on top of mine, have no idea where it went. Didn't bother trying to get the air bubble out either.

 

Randy:

The gauge itself is a tube that flexes as the pressure inside hanges. The needle of the gauge is attached to the tube so as it flexes with the pressure change, the needle moves. Imagine one of those birthday-party favors where you blow in the plastic end and the paper unrolls, harder you blow the furter it unrolls. Needle mounts on the paper roll.

The gauge housing itself has glycerine in it to dampen vibrations inside. This is as much to keep the needle steady as it is to preserve the tube; Too many flexes and it will stress-fracture. There will almost always be an air bubble in the top to allow for a little thermal expansion without affecting the readings. Don't bother trying to get rid of the bubble.

If you have a Roger gauge, the adapter seals to the end of the fuel rail with no added sealant. The original cap relies on a metal-to-metal seal, little ball bearing pressed into the flared and threaded end of the rail. The adapter includes a matching relief area to make up for not having the ball in there.

You'll need to cut a little of the end of the plastic rail cover if you want to leave the gauge in there permanently. No need for that except as a !bling! thing when the hood is open, IMHO.


Post pictures when you are done.

 

I installed a pressure gauge with NPT thread onto the end of my fuel rail and it leaked after a few weeks. I removed it and put a pink colored teflon tape specially used for Gas and Fuel lines. So far no leaks.

 

Don't use white plumbers PTFE on fuel systems - it disintgrates in Gas and can clog injectors etc.

as others have said you shouldn't need anything to seal the gauge to the rail, but FWIW I generally use Permatex No.3 aviation non setting gasket sealer. Even if it's not needed to "seal" it does stop the threads corroding together.

 

Hi

To seal Nitrous pipes, we use LIQUID Telfon...you get it from a plumbing supplier...great stuff...a couple of drops on any thread and its sealed, very cheap as well...couple of UK pounds....

And as Nitrous pipe joins have to withstand 1000 psi plus...then 50 ish for our fuel systems is easy...

All the best Brett

 

I used a red thread liquid sealer that I got from autozone. No leaks so far (knocking on wood).

 

Randy, my comment was really based on thermal expansion.

I use these types of guages on hydraulic equipment, and when you start messing around with the glycerin in them things just go wrong.

As to the teflon tape he is talking about threading the guage into the adapter, not the adapter to the fuel rail. Or so I hope!

 

Thanks for the guidance, guys.

Where is that Roger fellow gone to?

 

Installed it in a few minutes over the weekend.

Used pink teflon tape - no leaks yet.

I notched out the end of the fuel rail cover using a Dremel cutting wheel to allow for a permanent installation.

 

awe...Thats sweet randy

having had a gauge on the rail and an electric one IN the car i will say having the in the car gauge has been invaluable in helping me trouble shoot various things.
i use the Z series from Autometer. Look very close to the stock stuff in the pod...black...white numbers..simple orange needle.
http://www.autometer.com/cat_gaugede...earch&gid=3225

If you go to the trouble of putting the gauge on the rail...you may as well put a sender on and be able to see the pressure as you drive or start the car....just my experience with both types

 

removing the air bubble is a no go.

it allows for liquid expansion when the gauge is in very low, sub freezing temps---not that your car will ever see that in southern California.

look at it this way:

if you freeze a can of Coke, what happens to the liquid? it expands, causing the can to deform or explode.

you would not want this to happen to your newly purchased gauge.





--Russ

 

Randy keeps the ice in the back, so this shouldn't be a problem.