The early cars have different motor mounts than all the later cars and part of that is a pair of some mini strut looking things referred to as vibration dampers (928 375 179 02) in PET. On mine the bushings on the lower mounting bolt are deteriorating and I'm wondering if anyone knows of a source for just the bushings without replacing the whole damper?

 

I had to replace the dampers. The rubber is apparently vulcanized to the eye on the bottom of the damper.

 

Since the Engine Shock, '77-'82, P/N 928.375.179.02, costs $68.22, I can see why you want only the bushing...

If you feel that the shock part is still good after thirty years of service and heat, you might try making a new bushing in-place. Take the shock off, remove the old bushing, and use black RTV to make a new bushing in the eye.

Or, just call Jeannie and have her send you a new one.

 

If your engine mounts and shocks are original, they are shot. The engine mounts are solid but the rubber separates from the the mount. It sometimes is not apparent unless you raise the engine. Take the shock loose from the lower mounting point and push/pull on the shock. I am willing to bet your shocks are wore out. Changing the mounts and shocks really smooth out the engine when at idle. It was worth the expense to change them out, IMHO.

 

Stephen--

There's an option to get a used later crossmember, and use it with the newer-style mounts. There's a bucket of solid vs hydraulic worms around here somewhere. Putting either of the later Roger-style or hydraulic mounts will smooth the ride a lot.

The dampers you have are the early effort to stop some harmoinic displacement under certain driving conditions. The later hydraulic mounts have that harmonic dampening incorporated in the monuts so no need for the separate dampers. The later solid replacements are better than what came in your car but do not include that damping.

 

That's a very good price, Wally. Nearly half the price of what I was quoted elsewhere actually. On the other hand I'm not sure that a smartass sarcastic answer is the best way to attract new customers. I had actually emailed you some time ago with questions about part availability on your site but never received an answer so honestly I haven't bothered checking your catalog since then.

I realize that after 30 years those parts need to be replaced with new and that is in the long term plan of things to do when I eventually pull the engine for a full refurb, but was hoping to maybe find a replacement bushing to use there in the short term while I accumulate the required parts.

 

I have also seen the case that the damper is good but the grommet is gone. When the damper goes you will know it as the assembly will expand and contract by hand with no resistace.

I think the best bet would be to buy some rubber chord and drill a hole in the middle. I don't remember the exact inside diameter, but I think is is about 3/4". You can buy a 6" length of 3/4" diameter buna cord from McMaster (www.mcmaster.com) for $4, cut it to length, drill the hole, and press it in. I am not sure the buna was the correct material and it will not hold up to smog and such after a few years. You could also go silicon for $12. McMaster part number 9808K254.

The rubber of the mount does seperate from the metal, but I would not suggest replacing them. I did this on my first car, at some expense. 6 months later I had to pull the motor again and found that the new mounts had also sperated. Now I just use 'liquid nails' rubber cement and they seem to hold up at least as well as new mounts.

 

"Originally Posted by WallyP
Since the Engine Shock, '77-'82, P/N 928.375.179.02, costs $68.22, I can see why you want only the bushing...

If you feel that the shock part is still good after thirty years of service and heat, you might try making a new bushing in-place. Take the shock off, remove the old bushing, and use black RTV to make a new bushing in the eye.

That's a very good price, Wally. Nearly half the price of what I was quoted elsewhere actually. On the other hand I'm not sure that a smartass sarcastic answer is the best way to attract new customers. I had actually emailed you some time ago with questions about part availability on your site but never received an answer so honestly I haven't bothered checking your catalog since then.

I realize that after 30 years those parts need to be replaced with new and that is in the long term plan of things to do when I eventually pull the engine for a full refurb, but was hoping to maybe find a replacement bushing to use there in the short term while I accumulate the required parts. "

Stephen,

There was no sarcasm nor "smart *** answer" intended. If the little shock costs over $60, I can see why replacing the bushing would be attractive.

Porsce does not offer the bushing, so I gave a possible way for you to replace the bushing. I have done this repair myself in other cases.

My apologies for the lack of an answer. We have been having serious problems with our tech email system for several months, and have lost quite a few messages. We are doing an inconvenient work-around at the moment, so the messages are somtimes several days in getting answered.

I'm sorry that the message gave you the wrong impression.

 

Sorry I took that the wrong way. I guess maybe I just expect a certain amount of sarcasm around here.

Like I said, your price seems reasonable and I'll be contacting you for replacements sometime in the near future.

Thanks.

 

Hi Stephen,
The engine shock is available OEM from 928sRus for $58.95.
The mounts themselves are usually toast and have seperated from the metal bracket.
Even so they do still do the job unlike the later style which collapse.
The early MM's are expensive at $137.95 each so Dr Bob's suggestion of changing to the later style crossmember and my solid rubber MM's may be more cost effective.
Roger

 

The thing that blew me away is that someone that's been a member since '04 accused Wally of being a smart ***.

Just earlier today I read a "backup light" post of his on the mail list. I was thinking more like he's the 928 patron saint.

 

 

If you go with the later crossmember, you get bolts instead of studs to mount the rack(big PITA). Also, I think you need other hardware as well. IIRC the lower plate attaches with nuts and bolts, instead of just bolts. You will also need the engine bracket that holds the mount to the block. Anyway, make sure you get all the parts you need if you go this route, unless you don't mind waiting for parts.

 

Stephen--

Call Jim Bailey at 928 Int'l or Roger to get a package of all the bits you'll need for the conversion. All the pieces will be out on the floor to do the work no matter which way you go, so no extra work doing the conversion. I confess that I haven't had the pleasure of doing a MM job on an early car, and Dave A is certainly a guru of those, so take advantage of his knowledge of those details on bolts and brackets.

Brendan may have a whole crossmember package from one of his parts cars in San Diego too.

 

Couple more points to ponder -- your heat shields may not mount to the later crossmember without some mods, and even if they do they may not clear the differently-shaped later mounts. If you get a later crossmember, get it with the heat shields just in case(even so it may not fit without some massaging). Also, when using the cheaper alternative later mounts, there is a stud that hangs down and may interfere with rack installation -- this needs to be cut to length.

The pic below is a dirty example of a '78 crossmember showing the heat shields.

Personally, I would recommend you just freshen up what's there. I'm offering this info so you can make a more informed decision....