My $47.00 car lift!
01-12-2009, 10:01 AM
#61
Rennlist Member
01-12-2009, 10:04 AM
#62
Owns the Streets
Needs Camber
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
Needs Camber
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
I wanna see pictures of said timber based structures that are not bolted down to a firm foundation/pile driven into the ground and have big trucks drive onto their roofs all the time.
(note to self. Do not park in timber framed multi-storey parking garages)
HP, EVERYBODY knows that Ferraris like that are mid-engined so you can put the tall jack-stands close together. Low polar moment thingey with centrally aggregated mass.
Life, like Vegas, is playing the odds.
Sometimes the odds are in your favor, unlike Vegas.
01-12-2009, 10:08 AM
#63
Three Wheelin'
Check these out - this car is at least five feet in the air, with the jack stands very close together:
01-12-2009, 12:44 PM
#65
Man....Dean's thread sure got a lot of attention fast. +1 on Nichole's suggestion for Ken's liftbars.
Past experience with ramps scooting under forward pressure would suggest a ramp made of many parts is of questionable safety.
Dean; your rig may work well enough. You're the best judge, because many of us will never try this.
BTW: I'm sure the trouble of assembling this rig was made worth it, by the amusement in reading the responses ;-)
Past experience with ramps scooting under forward pressure would suggest a ramp made of many parts is of questionable safety.
Dean; your rig may work well enough. You're the best judge, because many of us will never try this.
BTW: I'm sure the trouble of assembling this rig was made worth it, by the amusement in reading the responses ;-)
01-12-2009, 01:47 PM
#66
Team Owner
I guess i should clarify my original post the wood blocks you have built are definitely strong, but its the ramps, the the grade they are at and the fact that there are no stops on top of the wood pads to either prevent the pad from moving when the car is driven up or to prevent the tire from proceeding over the block.
From using the Rhino ramps ( the grey versions) they are stronger, than the black versions.
if they are put on smooth surface like a garage floor they can sometimes slide forward. if they are placed under the the non driven wheels.
Good Luck on your car lift project please be safe
From using the Rhino ramps ( the grey versions) they are stronger, than the black versions.
if they are put on smooth surface like a garage floor they can sometimes slide forward. if they are placed under the the non driven wheels.
Good Luck on your car lift project please be safe
01-12-2009, 01:59 PM
#67
Three Wheelin'
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: In the boatyard installing the mast and engine, we don't need a crane, we harness the mesquito's! Yeah!
Posts: 1,822
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like
on
1 Post
Dean,
I drove two large spikes halfway into the towers where each ramp contacted the surface. Cut the heads off, leaving two sizable steel posts sticking up. Drilled two matching holes in the ends of each ramp.
This allows me to lift the ramp off, but holds them firmly in place while driving on or off.
BTW - If you use metal ramps and have trouble with them sliding away when you try to drive on, just screw and glue a strip of canvas or similar heavy cloth as wide as the ramp and a foot long to the end of each. Have two inches on the ramp, ten inches laid out on the ground. The tire drives onto the fabric, and the ramp can't slide.
I drove two large spikes halfway into the towers where each ramp contacted the surface. Cut the heads off, leaving two sizable steel posts sticking up. Drilled two matching holes in the ends of each ramp.
This allows me to lift the ramp off, but holds them firmly in place while driving on or off.
BTW - If you use metal ramps and have trouble with them sliding away when you try to drive on, just screw and glue a strip of canvas or similar heavy cloth as wide as the ramp and a foot long to the end of each. Have two inches on the ramp, ten inches laid out on the ground. The tire drives onto the fabric, and the ramp can't slide.
Considering that when Wally's "fix" is added, this will be stronger, and much more practical for working under the car then most of the ramps or jack stands, I like it!
But Dean, You really need to work on the choice of beverage
01-12-2009, 03:00 PM
#69
Captain Obvious
Super User
Super User
But to be fair, those metal jack stands are tested to hold their rated capacity. The regular small ones are each rated at 2 tonnes (can probably hold close to 3 before failing), that’s more than the entire weight of a car.
Using hard wood, that can stand high pressure, is fine but just regular timber is not really a good idea.
01-12-2009, 03:40 PM
#70
Chronic Tool Dropper
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
My secret method for using ramps has a rope or strap attached to the ramp at the rear. Place it so the rear wheels pin the rope as you roll up the ramp with the fronts. Ramps are retained by the strap so they don't slide. I like a webbed strap so I can roll over it while working under the car.
Note to self: order that lift soon, for February installation. Offer steel ramps free for anyone that wants them, local pickup only.
Note to self: order that lift soon, for February installation. Offer steel ramps free for anyone that wants them, local pickup only.
01-12-2009, 04:17 PM
#71
Drifting
Thread Starter
All the wood on the stand is in compression through its strongest axes when not subjected to deflection. The weakest thing is the ramps which is experiencing deflection in the weak axes. I am rethinking with help from others.
I also thought of a cheap way to insure the stands do not move forward as you drive on or off. The concrete garage wall is about 6 feet in fount of the stands. All I need is 2 boards that length to lay on the floor that will brace any tendency to move forward. Again this can be picked up and stored freeing up the work space.
Another issue I have thought about is when the rear is lifted at this angle I would think the car will want to roll backward a bit. The E break and tranny will not help with the front tires. I will need to think about a way to keep the front tires from rolling.
I also thought of a cheap way to insure the stands do not move forward as you drive on or off. The concrete garage wall is about 6 feet in fount of the stands. All I need is 2 boards that length to lay on the floor that will brace any tendency to move forward. Again this can be picked up and stored freeing up the work space.
Another issue I have thought about is when the rear is lifted at this angle I would think the car will want to roll backward a bit. The E break and tranny will not help with the front tires. I will need to think about a way to keep the front tires from rolling.
01-12-2009, 05:41 PM
#72
Under the Lift
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
01-12-2009, 07:11 PM
#73
Team Owner
if you reduced the pads a set or 2 of wood blocks it might be better
01-12-2009, 07:55 PM
#75
Drifting
Thread Starter
Come on!!! 
Been calculating the crush weight of the stands. Can't seem to find load data for 2x10 laid down and fully supported. Only on end or standing in compression. The numbers are astounding. Right now I would guess the stands are good for 20,000 lbs dead load easy. Plenty good for the 1000 lbs I need.
See what happens when work is slow or non existent?
As they say in the Olympics...I need to work on my "mount / dismount".
Been calculating the crush weight of the stands. Can't seem to find load data for 2x10 laid down and fully supported. Only on end or standing in compression. The numbers are astounding. Right now I would guess the stands are good for 20,000 lbs dead load easy. Plenty good for the 1000 lbs I need.
See what happens when work is slow or non existent?
As they say in the Olympics...I need to work on my "mount / dismount".