My $47.00 car lift!
01-10-2009, 09:34 PM
#1
Drifting
Thread Starter
My $47.00 car lift!
Just made tonight. Gets the car 1'-0 off the floor without effecting the suspension. To back of I only used the emergency brake so as to not move the ramp. Very stable actually. Mains are 2x10 wood with 2x10 ramps. After the car is up the ramps can be removed so access to the underneath is great.
Jacking the rear to level allows ease of transmission checks, TB pressure release...al those Jobs you hate to start because its such a pain to get the car off the ground.
The last pic shows the s^%$#ty job the local alignment folks did on the front. Brand new tires with 4000 miles. I attached a magnet tool to show that its detecting the steel belts below on the worn inside. These ramps allow you to adjust toe-in and toe-out with just a tape measure. Mine was 3/8" toed out. 10 minute fix....Probably less with fewer beers.
Jacking the rear to level allows ease of transmission checks, TB pressure release...al those Jobs you hate to start because its such a pain to get the car off the ground.
The last pic shows the s^%$#ty job the local alignment folks did on the front. Brand new tires with 4000 miles. I attached a magnet tool to show that its detecting the steel belts below on the worn inside. These ramps allow you to adjust toe-in and toe-out with just a tape measure. Mine was 3/8" toed out. 10 minute fix....Probably less with fewer beers.
01-10-2009, 09:40 PM
#2
Race Car
Your scaring me with that contraption! Your cinder block is hollow and will collapse. You have a good potential for the wood to shift on you never mind driving it up and one side collapses and you damage your car. Please be careful this does not look safe!
01-10-2009, 09:49 PM
#3
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You know, you could always use some tie-down straps and screw a couple of drywall screws into the ceiling, and then pull it up into the air...
No, wait...
There have been at least three squish deaths local to me whilst working under a dangerously raised car that I've noticed over the last 10 years or so...
Please be careful...
Nick - 89S4 Auto
P.s. - Do the empty beer cans have anything to do with this design???
No, wait...
There have been at least three squish deaths local to me whilst working under a dangerously raised car that I've noticed over the last 10 years or so...
Please be careful...
Nick - 89S4 Auto
P.s. - Do the empty beer cans have anything to do with this design???
01-10-2009, 09:50 PM
#4
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lift....?
I'm all for saving money, but you couldn't pay me to sit under that. Why not pick up some used metal ramps? More importantly, why risk your life to save a few bucks... as it just doesn't make good sense to me...
AL
AL
01-10-2009, 09:57 PM
#6
Drifting
Thread Starter
The cinder block is there to help minimize the ramp deflection as you drive on. It virtually has no real load. After the car is up the ramps and blocks are removed. That frees op all that space to have access to.
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01-10-2009, 10:02 PM
#8
Drifting
Thread Starter
If this doesn't work...at least you'll know where to find the body.
01-10-2009, 10:04 PM
#9
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$47 would have gotten you 4 6 ton jackstands from Harbor Freight (on sale, with coupons). They may not be the best quality in the world, but they're more sturdy than that. As for getting the front end up without effecting the suspesnion a set of Rhino Ramps isn't as tall, but are probably safer.
01-10-2009, 10:08 PM
#10
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Actually, the "ramps" they sell at my local auto parts chain store are entirely made of plastic. Terrifying looking, but technically capable of the rated load. I'd still never trust them...
01-10-2009, 10:10 PM
#11
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The stack of blocks is safe, the only way to collapse it is to get a row of the 2x4's to tip upwards onto their edge-- which they are seriously motivated not to do. Ships get blocked up with arrangments such as this (larger chunks of wood but same idea, and with no fasteners).
The only arguable risk, in my view, would be the 2x10 on edge which supports the top end of the ramp- that piece would be happier lying flat, given the chance. But that's a risk to the car, not flesh. Additional blocking in the fore-aft direction and some fasteners would take care of that possibility.
And personally, I think it looks safer than some of the store-bought ramps I've seen... Wood is good stuff, especially in compression.
The only arguable risk, in my view, would be the 2x10 on edge which supports the top end of the ramp- that piece would be happier lying flat, given the chance. But that's a risk to the car, not flesh. Additional blocking in the fore-aft direction and some fasteners would take care of that possibility.
And personally, I think it looks safer than some of the store-bought ramps I've seen... Wood is good stuff, especially in compression.
01-10-2009, 10:17 PM
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01-10-2009, 10:34 PM
#15
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The stack of blocks is safe, the only way to collapse it is to get a row of the 2x4's to tip upwards onto their edge-- which they are seriously motivated not to do. Ships get blocked up with arrangments such as this (larger chunks of wood but same idea, and with no fasteners).
The only arguable risk, in my view, would be the 2x10 on edge which supports the top end of the ramp- that piece would be happier lying flat, given the chance. But that's a risk to the car, not flesh. Additional blocking in the fore-aft direction and some fasteners would take care of that possibility.
And personally, I think it looks safer than some of the store-bought ramps I've seen... Wood is good stuff, especially in compression.
The only arguable risk, in my view, would be the 2x10 on edge which supports the top end of the ramp- that piece would be happier lying flat, given the chance. But that's a risk to the car, not flesh. Additional blocking in the fore-aft direction and some fasteners would take care of that possibility.
And personally, I think it looks safer than some of the store-bought ramps I've seen... Wood is good stuff, especially in compression.
May want to consider a "V shaped" stop at the end... or a properly placed tennis ball hanging from the ceiling.
One last thing after looking at it further. Please be careful not to have strong forward momentum when transitioning off the ramp and onto the block. The width is fine, but the length (fore/aft) with respect to the height is a bit out of proportion. Think "top heavy".