KenRudd

Just to make things clearer and save people the trouble of looking them up, here are pages 47-4 and 47-5 from the WSM.

-Ken

Rob Edwards

When at first you don't succeed, try try again. I pulled the calipers off the GTS, stripped them, rebuilt the fronts (the front dust seals were in really bad shape, while the rears look fine), and taped them up today in order to paint. You'll note the guide plates are still in there - I bought a quartet of new ones but simply cannot get the old ones out without risking stripping that damn 4mm socket cap screw. So the old ones are staying for now. They cleaned up nicely in the bead blaster, anyhoo.

This time I'm going with gloss black hi-temp paint, some PORSCHE decals from xenonmods (NLA, BTW- they got a cease 'n desist from Porsche...), and clear over that. Will see how it goes....


The surfaces look mottled but are smooth. Assuming it was the factory finish, the caliper had a clear coat of some sort over black gloss paint/coating of some sort, all of which is on top of anodizing that wore off in some areas. The PORSCHE lettering is painted on underneath this clear coat, on top of the black glossy stuff. It was a major PITA to strip. The clear bubbled off reasonably easily but the black gloss stuff is tenacious. I ended up going through about $20 worth of the little Dremel abrasive buffs (dremel # 511E) to get the black out of all the nooks and crannies. I'm beginning to see why people just buy new calipers......

worf928

The caliper has to been heated up before the little button-head bolt will turn out.

Rob Edwards

Dave-

What temp am I shooting for on Jen's cuisinart? I ASSume it won't hurt the new seals?

worf928

Bake on 175 to 200 for 10 minutes. At that point give the screws a try. If not then go up in increments. I guess I'd probably not go above 300.

I didn't have no fancy high-tech closed-loop temperature control system like you. I just used my heat gun and by the time the caliper was too hot to handle with bare hands the screws were turning out. So, I'd guess that was ~200°F.

And no, it didn't hurt my old original-equipment seals. So, your new ones should be fine.

SharkSkin

Rob, those screws can be a bugger but the one screw on mine that the head stripped on, came right off with a little persuasion. I went to a machinist who told me there was nothing for it but to split the caliper, and I talked him into TIG welding a washer to the bolt head then a nut to the washer, and it came right out. Since you already have the seal in that might not be practical, but I just thought I'd let you know there are options...

BTW I had a feeling I shouldn't have showed you my calipers.

F451

I had the exact same experience. Bought the new plates and bolts, never used them.

F451

Again, same experience. I couldn't understand why the black "paint" would not come off until someone finally explained to me that the paint stripper will take off the clear coat, but not the black "paint", because it is not paint.

Oh, that explains a lot.

I ran the Dremel over them a number of times and did some sanding and called it good. They came out great and are holding up nicely.

Ispeed

Black anodized aluminum...I have to do mine soon with new clear coat.

kccampro

Great write-up and I'm getting myself some extractors like that.

BC

Rob - those cap screws are mighty irritating. But to get them out, you must get a few wood chipper type tools - the ones you would mortise a door with when you put a new lock plate in. And then you simply position the caliper so you can bang on that (I can't think of the word for the tool - I was painting silver this weekend and I have obviously lost some vocabulary) - with a hammer - into the circumference of the caliper button heads. They eventually turn. It takes time. It took me about 2 days. But I got them out - and I replated the spring plates.

F451

Hmm, seems I did get mine out, which is my nature to not give up on a ball buster of a job, even if it kills me. And jeez, talk about early Alzheimers.

Here's the plates with some misc parts I cleaned up and clear coated for the hell of it.



I used the cold chisel hammering the head to back it out method.

Rob Edwards

Good idea on clearing the pad retainer springs. I shoulda gotten them nickel plated along with the rotors but didn't have the calipers disassembled in time. I'll try the heat trick first ,tonight, and report back.

dr bob

Ed's method always works, but it isn't always the prettiest way to get the job done. Makes a button-head Allen screw into a round-head slotted machine screw. With a booger'd slot.

F451

Yes, my method was definitely last resort and there is always the risk of chiseling the head of the bolt right off.

I had tried repeated soaking with PB Blaster, then heat, tapping, etc, but no go, so resorted to the hammer.