DR

If only he hadn't mounted the rears on the front we could have left them on there until after SITM and dealt with them later :-(

BC

I can't in good conscience not put something on those threads and round face. Too many times I have thought I had some easy job on some car and the freaking wheel lugs stick, causing hours of frustration and time-wasting. "A little dab'l-do-ya" is so easy to put into the process, as gb mentioned. For anyone active with the car, removing and replacing wheels is something done nearly every quarter or half year. Make it easier next time on yourself!

The deep socket idea is new to me, but I guess I was already doing it, as a shallow socket doesn't work well at all, and the OEM socket bar is just a monster and hits the paint on the wheels sometimes.

WallyP

dr bob said, "There are many that will argue the issue of using graphite products on the aluminum."

Actually I am one of those. Back when I was building airplanes for a living, we had strict rules about even using a standard pencil for layout marks on aluminum parts - graphite corrodes aluminum.

It might not be a problem when the graphite is encapsulated in the anti-seize grease, but it still makes me nervous.

WallyP

I will have to say that I didn't really expect to get three pages of comments on a simple post about lubricating lug nuts!

worf928

Aaaaaaaaahhhhhhhhhh! I had conveniently blocked that from memory. So we're even now.

Do you think the rear-engined folk worry about nut lubrication as much as we do?

ew928

Are the alloy lug nuts used on other models?

Hence the obsession with lubing nuts.

Tails

Wally,

I also have problems with graphite and aluminium due to the corrosion.

I was involved with the building design and building of 7 LNG Carriers, 125,000 cubic metres of LNG per voyage and the 4 cargo thanks were 40 metre internal diameter Moss Rosenburg aluminium tanks, no graphite and no carbon was allowed anywhere near the tanks due to carring temperature of -162 degrees C (expansion and contraction) and any imperfections were limited to 0.2mm IIRC, so I have a healthy respect for not using graphite on aluminium especially in high stressed areas.

When I replaced the first set of spark plugs on my car over 9 years ago I put the RACOL anti seize on the threads of the plugs and torqued up.

After installation I remembered graphite and aluminium. Next day down loaded the MSDS for RACOL and no graphite of carbon content, so all was OK, so I would have some concerns with Optimol Paste TA with 10 to 20% graphite content.

Tails 1990 928S4 Auto

mark kibort

Ive been using the permatex anti-sieze silver looking lube.

Its seems to be working. I do a lot of wheel removals and dont like the sticking of lugs after high temp use after a session or race. Now, I have no issues taking the lugs off in the worst of conditions. Never has a lug been too tight or loose after the longest periods without monitering.

mk

Glenn M

Had to us the hole saw on three lug nuts on the 88, PITA! I use aluminum anti-seize (copper on my Triumph's center knockoffs).

Glenn

LGL

Any good source to buy some ?. I tried a search without luck.

dprantl

I have used the same for 8 years on my 928's and have no issues. Most generic auto parts stores have it.

Dan
'91 928GT S/C 475hp/460lb.ft

WallyP

We sell the expensive Porsche stuff. You can get the cheaper generic at your local parts store without having to pay shipping.

LGL

Thanks all.

Tom in Austin

Interesting ... I have some nuts that still squeak when coming loose even with a reasonable (and equal) amount of anti-sieze on the threads ...

WallyP

Are the calottes (rounded surface that contacts the wheel) lubed? That was the point of this whole thread.