Hopelessly stuck Oil pan- Solvents?
#1
Archive Gatekeeper
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Hopelessly stuck Oil pan- Solvents?
I am tearing down a spare motor that I got from the 928Intl sale and was making good progress until I got to the oilpan. The tips of the bolts were covered in some black tarry goo and the damn pan is stuck down like no one's business. I tried prying as hard as I dare but the pan won't budge. Any thoughts on whay might dissolve whatever half gallon of black RTV-like stuff is holding on my oilpan?
#2
Rennlist Member
You're fooked.
It may be Permatex Form-a-gasket, or worse. Actually that's good stuff, but can be a mother to take apart years down the road. I'd suggest getting some extra-long utility knife blades( I think they may be sold as foam blades) and just cut the gasket in half, being careful not to nick the sealing surfaces. Once you have it apart it will be easier to experiment with solvents & scrapers.
With it apart I'm pretty sure you could get the cork off with a regular putty knife, then use Permatex gasket remover or similar to get the goo off. Or, experiment with mineral spirits, carb/brake cleaner, etc. at your leisure.
It may be Permatex Form-a-gasket, or worse. Actually that's good stuff, but can be a mother to take apart years down the road. I'd suggest getting some extra-long utility knife blades( I think they may be sold as foam blades) and just cut the gasket in half, being careful not to nick the sealing surfaces. Once you have it apart it will be easier to experiment with solvents & scrapers.
With it apart I'm pretty sure you could get the cork off with a regular putty knife, then use Permatex gasket remover or similar to get the goo off. Or, experiment with mineral spirits, carb/brake cleaner, etc. at your leisure.
#3
Addict
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
+1 on what Dave said.
The gasket i sonly like 1/2" wide so extra lon blades aren't really neccessary - anything you can reliably control (so you don't end up inadvertently trying to Xacto through the oil pan) that will penetrate 1/2" will do. Once you have 3 sides done you should be able to just lever up the edge of the pan to pry apart the remaining 4th (straight) side.
Once it's all apart experiment with solvents at your leisure - there aren't eny solvents tht will hurt alu. I use offcuts of timber to get rid of the bulk of stubborn gaskets, followed by those yellow squares of nylon "scraper" that are included with small pots of body filler. If I get really desperate I use an old fashioned razor blade with no protection - this ensures that I am careful enough to avoid nicking me or the oil pan.
The gasket i sonly like 1/2" wide so extra lon blades aren't really neccessary - anything you can reliably control (so you don't end up inadvertently trying to Xacto through the oil pan) that will penetrate 1/2" will do. Once you have 3 sides done you should be able to just lever up the edge of the pan to pry apart the remaining 4th (straight) side.
Once it's all apart experiment with solvents at your leisure - there aren't eny solvents tht will hurt alu. I use offcuts of timber to get rid of the bulk of stubborn gaskets, followed by those yellow squares of nylon "scraper" that are included with small pots of body filler. If I get really desperate I use an old fashioned razor blade with no protection - this ensures that I am careful enough to avoid nicking me or the oil pan.
#5
Nordschleife Master
Its nasty stuff - but made the silicone very soft and I scraped it out of the gaps with a metal putty knife.
#6
Burning Brakes
I had this happen to me, it was Honda bond/Yamabond, the engine was on a engine stand and the oil pan was not commin off. I used a metal putty knife and a small 10 lb. sledge hammer. I tapped the corner of the knife into the gasket and then worked the blade around and would tap it just enough to get into the gasket W/ out going to far into the engine. I then used solvent along W/ a razor blade to clean up the gasket on the oil pan and engine.
I first tried a utility knife to cut the gasket but found the metal putty knife to work much better.
I first tried a utility knife to cut the gasket but found the metal putty knife to work much better.
Trending Topics
#8
Addict
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
I know that heavy duty fishing line can be used to 'saw' through body trim adhesive, could something similar be done here? Maybe pry a corner enough to get the line started, then use a back and forth sawing motion working your way through the gasket. That would at least cut down on the chances of damaging the pan or block.
#10
Rennlist Member
I had a jetski head do this to me once. The long blade thing didnt work, the RTV was just to hard. I ended up just hammering on it with a hard rubber mallet for what seemed like forever. I think it took a few days but it eventually broke lose. Oh yeah, heat, I also used heat. I cant remember if i used a torch or a heat gun or both.
#12
Archive Gatekeeper
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
CRC Gasket remover and a BFH to the rescue....
The CRC stuff is a thick spray gel- let it soak in for 15 minutes, you could see the goo swelling a bit. I helped it along with some rubber 3 lb mallet upstrokes on the front corners of the sump.
The CRC stuff is a thick spray gel- let it soak in for 15 minutes, you could see the goo swelling a bit. I helped it along with some rubber 3 lb mallet upstrokes on the front corners of the sump.
#13
Rennlist Member
I know what I am looking at by know nothing about it. Is that a TBF block with the wear on the block?
#14
Archive Gatekeeper
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
The block machining is scary, isn't it? This is a 91 GT motor that lived for a while in an '89 Auto. The motor was running well when it was in an accident and totalled. I helped pull the motor at 928Intl and saw the flexplate release, it was fine. No metal bits in the sump/oil, and the engine turns over easily by hand. I'm not worried about it.
#15
Nordschleife Master