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reanimate a old engine

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Old Dec 21, 2008 | 09:15 AM
  #1  
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Default reanimate a old engine

soon i will have a wrecked car in which the engine was only 25k kilometers rebuild.That car sits now for sure 10 years aside, without ever running .

I would like to start it and have it warm to inspect oil pressure and compression...

Now besides fresh oil and fuel , can i hook up a batterie and try a start ?
Should i pull the plugs first and add some 2stroke oil in the cilinders ?

Are there other important things to check first as not to damage the engine by a temp to run ?

I will ofcourse inspect visually the belt for a" startup" and renew if we plan on using this engine further....

thanks for any ideas...
Norbert
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Old Dec 21, 2008 | 10:13 AM
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Some oil in the bores sounds good, then with plugs removed, crank it over enough times to get the oil pump pushing oil throughout the engine.

If the enigine isn't going to be removed from the donor vehicle imediately after these tests, then drain/change coolant.

I would be very wary of a cambelt that hasn't moved for 10 years...... safer to change it first ?
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Old Dec 21, 2008 | 10:20 AM
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Originally Posted by belgiumbarry
soon
Should i pull the plugs first and add some 2stroke oil in the cilinders ?

Are there other important things to check first as not to damage the engine by a temp to run ?

I will ofcourse inspect visually the belt for a" startup" and renew if we plan on using this engine further....
Definately add some oil to the top of the cylinders as you noted. In leiu of Marvel Mystery oil, 2-stroke will at least coat everything on the cylinder walls. Add a couple spoons full to each cylinder and let it sit... for a couple days to be safe. Try to spin it by hand first...

After you can spin it by hand, check the belt tension at 0 and then rotate and check again.

Once everything moves freely without expensive sounds, and the belt has proper tension, put the plugs back in and turn it over with the starter sans fuel pressure. If everything still sounds good, push the fuel pump relay back in and cross your fingers. Good Luck!

Last edited by EC928NC; Dec 21, 2008 at 11:02 PM.
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Old Dec 21, 2008 | 10:40 AM
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I`m with John on this i would install a new or recently used belt first before trying the run the engine
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Old Dec 21, 2008 | 10:49 AM
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What year model. if non interference, why bother with the belt?
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Old Dec 21, 2008 | 11:03 AM
  #6  
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Yes, what year?

Oil/filter change before a single rotation of the crank, in my opinion. Look for foreign matter.

I'd do a coolant drain / change too.

Pull passenger cam cover.

I might disconnect the power steering pump, just to possibly keep from pumping reservoir crap into the rack.

Cycle the engine by hand before starting, plugs out.

Just take your time. A gram of prevention is worth a kilogram of cure, so to speak.
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Old Dec 21, 2008 | 03:34 PM
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thanks for the replys !
now i'm not sure yet about the year... think a 82-83... as the owner described. He bought the car "wrecked" as for spares for his running car but doesn't use it much so in 10 years never needed a spare item.. Car is even stocked between pallets in a hangar , so i even couldn't see it... He will free it up one of these days and transport it to my garage. We agreed to "buy" the engine after i see some life in it and all seems good.

Now about the belt... sh*t, i removed a perfectly good one from my "racer" to put a new one on it... and discarded that belt... had i know...

but , are all the 16V non-interference ?
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Old Dec 21, 2008 | 04:20 PM
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Is it a Euro "S" ? then some claim they are interference.....
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Old Dec 21, 2008 | 04:42 PM
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The other thing you will need to do is drain all the fuel out, and put a fuel cleaner in with fresh fuel, you may have to replace the pump just to get it to run.
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Old Dec 21, 2008 | 05:05 PM
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Like a few others here I can absolutly state that some 16V motors are interference. I will be pulling my motor today as my belt jumped a few teeth and aterwards I had no compression in one hole.
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Old Dec 21, 2008 | 05:44 PM
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Originally Posted by Lizard931
The other thing you will need to do is drain all the fuel out, and put a fuel cleaner in with fresh fuel, you may have to replace the pump just to get it to run.
lucky i still have the pump from my car... as i now use 2 "carb" pumps. So i could replace it easy if it isn't working anymore. Mine was running perfect .. till i got messing with it ...
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Old Dec 21, 2008 | 08:56 PM
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Originally Posted by karl ruiter
Like a few others here I can absolutly state that some 16V motors are interference. I will be pulling my motor today as my belt jumped a few teeth and aterwards I had no compression in one hole.


<MORE>, please. Year and type now. Later, what you find when you get in there.
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