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did you disassemble the tensioner when you re did the belt? . I have found that sometimes the bellview washers will need a bit of seating time and also getting hot, this seems to reduce the tension of the belt . I would also check that the torque is correct on the cam pulleys and that you made sure to install the woodruf keys
OK, thanks to the torque wrench thread I'm feeling really pedantic: "bellview" - should be "belleville". Different 'burbs? or maybe the guy who invented them... Time for another J&B!
Yes, it was the passenger side off by what looked like four teach. I ordered the new belt specifically for this car, so I assume it is right. The left and right sprockets look the same. The teeth look like they fit into the sprocket exactly right. I don't think a foreign object could have gotten in there, since the covers were on.
Tom did you rebuild the tensioner?
Did you remove the brass colored washers from inside the tensioner?
Did you refill the tensioner with oil?
Did you spin the engine a few times by hand prior to starting it and recheck the belt tension?. I have found that sometimes the tensioner can lose a bit of tension after the Belleville washers are removed and replaced, as their HOME has been disturbed.
I put the tensioner piston and washers into a vice after cleaning and compress them a few times (not much) but enough to see them all move so as to help seat them.
I also use STP oil treatment in the tensioners now and use a visene bottle ( with the tip drilled out a bit) to put the oil in the tensioner
No, I didn't remove or disassemble the tensioner. Just loosened it, replaced the belt, and tightened it. Yes, I did turn it around by hand several times and then rechecked tension. And I cranked it using the starter (with sparks disconnected) for while and then rechecked tension again. Now I've done all these things a second time after repositioning the belt Friday. So far, so good. I drove it a bunch on Saturday, and just a little yesterday. I'll see how it does tonight after work. (It got really cold overnight again....not that I'm sure that has anything to do with it.)
Regarding the cam pulleys, I didn not remove them. But I did veryfy the bolts are torqued tight. I'm pretty sure the woodruf key is in there, although I didn't check that.
I'll check. My recollection is that whatever shape they are, they fit each other exactly right. But I can't remember now exactly what their shape was to describe them as rounded or square.
When I ruled out cam above based on your statement that you had "verified compression", I'm curious what compression numbers you were getting that you felt were OK?
Unless the cogs were updated, an '82 uses the square tooth profile shown in the bottom of the pic: the middle is the conventional HT 'round tooth', while the upper is the HT round with a dimpled center.
When I began reading your first post several days ago, it was apparent that the RH cam was out of time ... for there is no other way to maintain compression in light of the other good diagnostic markers you mentioned: I was most pleased that you had found the slippage before I finished reading the thread, so had nothing to add until now.
So, why has the TB slipped? Check the TB/cog profiles and tensioner assembly as advised by others, and let us know what is found: I have several pics to add for comparison if req'd, as several updates were installed on my early 16V engine.
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