My -86 32v does shift a little bit to late (while driving relaxed) in all gears and I think some of the wire/wires going from the throttle linkage to the transmission needs adjusting.

What wire should I adjust, how and where?

Otherwise the tranny and kickdown works great.

/Tobias

 

Tighten the cable to the trans a little bit at a time. It's very sensitive. One turn is noticeable.

It's the only cable which is pulled. It's the top cable closest to the engine. Remove the retaining pin, and pop off the cable. Pull back the boot, and use 7 & 8mm wrenches to loosen the locknut.

 

My 83 automatic seems to up shift to early. Do I loosen the cable to fix it?

 

Thanks PorKen, U always got answers


BTW, What´s that extra heatervalve for?

/Tobias

 

Adjustment done. Two full turns on the wirejoint was enough. Now it shifts when it´s suppose to.

This along with a new 80°C thermostat got to make a great difference when it comes to fuel-consumption that has been all to high.

/Tobias

 

I thought you tightened it for longer shifts and loosened it for quicker shifts
But the previous post blows that outta the water.
Although having said that the linkage on my 88 s4 looks diffrent to that pictured

 

I "loosend it" so to speak to make it shift earlier. That worked out fine.

I´m happy with the result.

 

Now I am totally lost....hahaha
So you lengthened the cable or shortened it.

 

Lengthen it. The best description has to be that I turned the balljoint fitting counterclockwise for two full turns.

 

Loosen, tighten... whatever it takes.

 

Yep I lengthened the cable to make my shifts a lil earlier and smoother.
what an easy job and a great result.
the vehicle is a different car to drive i tell you

 

+1 -- Ken, I'm not only curious about the heater valve -- intended to start/stop flow through the radiator with the thermostat closed? But I'm also curious about the Y-adapter. Catch can?

 

I have to tell you all. As oz928s4 wrote I couldn´t agree more. The change in shiftpoint and the new thermostat did it all! Fuel consumption gone down massively. From 1,5 liter/10 kilometers to 1,2 liter/10 kilometers I´m confident I can force consuption down a bit more.

Ken, wouldn´t one of your chips be able to lower fuel consumption even more due to the more advanced ignition timing?

/Tobias

 

The heater valve is to bypass the thermostat at full throttle. (Thread) I'm running a hot (87C) thermostat for efficiency(?), so my thinking was to cool the engine when running hard. (Newer Audi/BMW have electronic thermostats that go to a higher temp when cruising.)

I think it may have an unintended benefit, yet to be proven on the dyno, that the water pump doesn't have to work as hard with a larger opening, and may use less horsepower at high rpm = more to the wheels. The vacuum line is T-ed off of my (variable exhaust valve).

The two woolly hoses come from the oil fill tower, and the big hose drops into a can for now. The cam cover vents are plugged.

 

From 15.7 to 19.6 mpg, that's pretty good. (Calculator) I keep hoping my mileage will go up with each mod I put in, but I drive mainly in the city, and it's far too easy to use the power it has, by accident, or on purpose. I try to make smooth takeoffs, which feel slow, but I always end up rolling out faster than the cars around me.

I suppose it could be worse, I consistently get 14 mpg (16.8 L/100) around town, and 17 (13.8) combined city/highway. I still have yet to drive a full tank (400 miles) at the same rate, so I don't know what it the max highway could be. I have a euro tach with a L/100KM gauge. On level ground at 60 mph my consumption is around 10 L/100KM (24 mpg), according to it.


thread

BTW: I run the lowest grade Chevron gas, and rarely ever get a knock light.