928ntslow

SCHUUUWEEET!!!!!! Fantastic job AB! Wish we were close enough to where I could have made a quick run to help out. You answered A LOT of question for me when I do these flares on the cabriolet (someday).

I know this project has been a very long one for you, but it is great to see it moving along...slowly but surely.

928ntslow

(double post )

928ntslow

LOL...I wish that was the case. Seems R'list locked up when I hit SUBMIT REPLY and it did nothing, so I must have hit it again...and it was still locked up, so I closed down and reopened. So much for a higher power taking over R'list and making this a trouble free site.

Mike B

WOW...Great job Adam and company!

atb

Yes, we're just THAT good . I guess I should clarify, we didn't have a hard copy with us. Ken doesn't have a printer, and at the beginning of each session would ask me if I'd remembered to print up a set of the instructions. Of course I hadn't. So we were basically winging it from what Ken and John had remembered from doing install on Ken's racecar and from what I remembered of your install. Mainly I wanted to have you mention if we missed an important step since we weren't using the play book. You know Louie, maybe if you put a centerfold in there a guy might be more motivated to print it up.

And yes, that satin finish does look evil, I like it for sure.

Jim bailey - 928 International

When I have joined fiberglass to metal I usually swiss cheese the metal and put glass cloth on both sides of the joint. That bonds and seals the joint. As mentioned sand/grind BOTH sides before any cutting , it is way easier. The last 5 % of doing bodywork takes 95% of the time to get it right

mark kibort

Jim,

Ive got a go ahead with my auto body shop to try and do my front fenders. All I need is about .5" of spacing and remember you talking about what Mark A. did on his. two 3' long narrow pizza pie shap cuts end to end . can you give me a diagram or better description of where those years, i kept on forgetting to look under the fender of Mark's car to see the scars. now, it sounds like it will be in the trailer for a few months now. since im not going radically wide up front, im thinking we can just make that fender cut and fill the space with bonded or welded aluminum sheet and bondo over that. I mounted the 305s on the 10" rims with 8.5" backspacing, so its really close now, but the end of the fender is sitting on the very outside edge of the larger tire. doesnt cutting the fender lengthwise, make the fender drop down lower? did he radius the fender to prevent this? It almost seems like his is wider off the lower part of the door too.

Mark

Louie928

Adam,
I already have this as the heading on the first page. Not enough? Now if Sean would send me some inappropriate pics of Angela, I could intersperse them in the instructions. But then, no one would even look at the printed words.https://rennlist.com/forums/attachme...1&d=1227148662

John Veninger

Not at all since I used them a while back

Nice job Adam. So how many of us now have an OTT

mark kibort

bump to jim..............

Louie928

I think no more than a half dozen.

Jim bailey - 928 International

Basically he just slit the fender at the outer edge of the upper flat and pulled it out. The pie shaped pieces were the filler panels welded in to fill the gaps. He may have added a small square filler on the fender lip as well.

mark kibort

Thanks. I was thinking it would be just on the outer edge of the flat, or just as the fender starts bending down. I think eitherway, it will radius down some as it is pivoting at the fender bottom attachments. But i guess the drooping of the fender lip is not going to be much as all we need is a little bit of width distance, say .5 to .75".

mk

IcemanG17

I'd also be VERY interested in this techinque..... MK if you do this be sure to post LOTS of pics of how you did it?

atb

Had a little time to work on the car today. Did a mock up assembly of the stroker so I could start burretting for volumes to determine what head gasket thickness I'm going to need. After I finished with that I decided to see what I could do on the gas cap issue with Louie's flares.

It was my hope to reskin the stock door and maintain the stock hinge mechanism. Looks like this may be doable. I'm a long way from home, but at least it looks plausible. There are three compound curves that need to happen, and I've done just the first, which is to curve the lower rear corner in. The lower front corner needs to curve out to follow the line of the flare, and then there is a concave curve that goes horizontally across the centerline of the gas door. The last two cut across the hinge line, so they won't be able to done with the stock door but will be done in some manner on top of the stocker. If anyone has any ideas I'd be interested, at this point I'm contemplating just forming a top to adhere to the stock door to give the proper shape. Because of the shape of the flare, there will some interesting clearance issues to allow the door to open fully.