torque value and question about intake nuts
11-14-2008, 03:38 PM
#1
Burning Brakes
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torque value and question about intake nuts
I decided to bite the bullet and pull the intake to see if I missed anything during the R&R that could cause the high idle I have.
So, assuming I have the gasket, spacer, grommet and cap/washer installed correctly over the studs should I expect the cap/washer to bottom out on the top of the spacer or will I reach proper torque before that point? And of course what is the proper torque for these nuts?
I think i remember not being able to find a definitive number before in the WSM's and instead found a thread here that recommended 11ft lbs....
After inspecting the gaskets I don't think I had it too tight, if anything it was too loose although there is no sure sign of leakage. My symptoms just before this removal seemed to have the idle creep up as the car warmed up so I'm wondering if the expansion of the two metal faces (intake and head) was out of sync enough to create a leak that only happens when warm...
Another thing I found was the gaskets for the side panels on the intake were my old ones, the new ones hadn't arrived before the intake went back in and although they looked like they sealed before the fresh ones I just put in were much much better! Hopefully this will do it but I need the torque numbers before I can find out.
Thanks!
So, assuming I have the gasket, spacer, grommet and cap/washer installed correctly over the studs should I expect the cap/washer to bottom out on the top of the spacer or will I reach proper torque before that point? And of course what is the proper torque for these nuts?
I think i remember not being able to find a definitive number before in the WSM's and instead found a thread here that recommended 11ft lbs....
After inspecting the gaskets I don't think I had it too tight, if anything it was too loose although there is no sure sign of leakage. My symptoms just before this removal seemed to have the idle creep up as the car warmed up so I'm wondering if the expansion of the two metal faces (intake and head) was out of sync enough to create a leak that only happens when warm...
Another thing I found was the gaskets for the side panels on the intake were my old ones, the new ones hadn't arrived before the intake went back in and although they looked like they sealed before the fresh ones I just put in were much much better! Hopefully this will do it but I need the torque numbers before I can find out.
Thanks!
11-14-2008, 04:37 PM
#2
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I used 11 ft-lbs, and tightened everything in a cross-pattern finger tight, then lightly with a 1/4" ratchet, then to torque. The intake squishes a lot getting to 11 ft lbs but certainly nothing bottomed out.
EDIT:
WSM torques, page 10-09. I ASSUME "intake rail mounting" means the ten 13mm nuts that hold the S4+ manifold in place.....
EDIT:
WSM torques, page 10-09. I ASSUME "intake rail mounting" means the ten 13mm nuts that hold the S4+ manifold in place.....
11-14-2008, 04:41 PM
#3
Under the Lift
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I think the spacers can only go on one way, with the slightly flanged end at the bottom. The spacer permits 1/3rd compression of the gasket before they lock down at 11 ft-lbs.
11-14-2008, 08:22 PM
#4
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+1 What Bill wrote: Flange at the bottom and 15 Nm (11 ft-lbs).
Lube the top of the pressure gaskets so that the pressure washers will rotate freely when the nut starts pressing down on 'em. Old crufty back side of the pressure washers can "grab" the pressure gaskets and twist them apart before you get to 15 Nm.
Lube the top of the pressure gaskets so that the pressure washers will rotate freely when the nut starts pressing down on 'em. Old crufty back side of the pressure washers can "grab" the pressure gaskets and twist them apart before you get to 15 Nm.
