devilinblack

Well, it's looking like whatever problems the clutch may still have Jim called it with the TT bearing. I slid a 1/8" brass rod up there and was alarmed when it just kept going and going and going. 29" later it was stopped. What a mess.

It looks like my next move will be to start removing all the bits required to get the TT out. I'll inspect and check back with better photos to see what if anything needs to be done to the clutch, TOB, etc.

Here's a couple more of the clutch still in the car, but using natural light instead of the flash.





Thanks again.

SharkSkin

Tough news about the TT. BTW, the guide tube hardware should have lockwashers when it goes back together for the last time...

Have you looked closely at the release arm and tried rotating the crank around to see if you can figure out what knocked that hole in the BH?

tailpipe

When I rebuilt my TT for the same reasons I used a couple 3/16 pop rivets on the bottom of the TT to keep the bearings in place good luck


paul

devilinblack

Thanks Paul. That's the plan, to replace the bearings and use rivets or screws to hold them in place to prevent this from happening in the future.

The exhaust is off the car with only two broken bolts at the manifold and I just got the clutch out. I'll pick it back up in the morning.

tailpipe

when you install the new bearings make sure you glue the bushings in the bearings I use silicone I made the mistake of not bonding them in hence I have to pull my TT out again the bushings have come loose and I have a good vibration back

mark kibort

I think you are right. I was missreading the photo. the normal wear point that we usually see, is way at the end of the fingers as you say.

mk

SharkSkin

Another note -- the guide tube hardware needs lockwashers.

devilinblack

Now you're just repeating yourself, Dave.

I've got the lockwashers ready for when the clutch goes back in.

SharkSkin

DOH!

devilinblack

Thanks to the pointers in my Clutch Removal thread I got the rest of the clutch out after I got home from work.

I now have the 4 bolts that attach the TT to the upper bellhousing loosened and ready to come out, the set screw at the rear shifter linkage is loosened, the coupling bolt is removed and the 4 bolts holding the transmission to the crossmember are loosened. I still need to remove the two bolts under the ashtray as well as the shifter boot and frame (do I remove the shift lever also?) and I should probably also unbolt the battery box from the transmission but I just wanted to make sure I'm clear on what to do next.

If I've got this correct the next step will be to support the torque tube or front of the transmission (or both?) with a jack and remove the bolts holding the front of the torque tube to the upper bellhousing. Once this is done the transmission/torque tube should rotate down enough for me to remove the four bolts holding them together and slide them apart.

Am I missing something here, or does that sound like the proper way to get this done without dropping the whole rear end per the WSM?

Thanks.

SharkSkin

I took a different course, I took out the TT and trans as an assembly, without removing the shift lever but it was tight. I think you may be able to get the TT itself out without removing the shift lever, but it may be close. I'd recommend pulling it off just so you have room to maneuver.

You say that you loosened 4 bolts at the trans -- the trans only is mounted by 2.

Pulling the battery box is a good idea, otherwise you may jam it against the body when you tilt the TT downward.

You can just leave one lower bolt finger tight at the TT/BH, there are locating pins between the two that will keep it from shifting around.

The TT/trans assembly balances perfectly on a floor jack pad under the front drain plug. Once the TT is removed the trans should just settle more firmly on the jack, but you might want to run a rope from one jackstand over the nose of the trans and over to the other jackstand and tension it so that it isn't bobbing around on its balance point as you try to free the TT. Come to think of it, with the halfshafts attached it might not be such a perfect balance. You my have no choice but to find a way to pull the nose of the trans downward.

Make sure that rear coupling is really free, you don't want to get snagged up on that. The set screw may have left a burr on the shaft; you might want to loosen the clamping collar as well and make sure it can slide freely.

Caveat: I have only participated in two torque-tube-ectomies; one was an automatic that we did essentially the way you are doing yours, and mine, which I took the different approach on. Hopefully someone who has taken the same approach that you are, will chime in. I've seen it described around here many times so there should be no shortage of experience.

devilinblack

Okay, 2 bolts on the trans are removed, the other two hold the crossmember to the car and I re-tightened those. I removed the two bolts in front of the shifter and the bolts on the bellhousing and on the trans. Removed the battery box and pried open the rear clamping collar so it moves freely backwards towards the trans. It's still stuck. The whole works tilts down and I could most likely get it off past the bellhousing, but it seems to be fused to the transmission. I hit it with PB blaster, bolted the front back up, supported the TT and trans with jacks and tried levering the trans backwards using the crossmember but it won't budge.

I'll let the PB Blaster sit overnight and try again tomorrow evening, but any ideas on how to encourage the TT to separate from the trans other than breaking out the BFH?

SharkSkin

Resist the BFH urge. You did completely remove the rear pinch bolt, right? Just checking since that's the next likely hang-up, and I think that's the clamping collar you're talking about. There are dowel pins locating the trans/TT to each other just like at the front, so even if it were freshly assembled it wouldn't want to move easily.

With the bolts just a half turn less than finger tight(so the mating surfaces can shift enough to see a gap when it frees) take a deadblow hammer or, if you don't have one, use a piece of hardwood as a drift, and smack around the rear flange of the TT a bit. Don't hit it with a metal hammer. You could support the end of the TT on a block of wood and pull down at the trans/TT flange to see if you can open a gap at the bottom. Don't do this with the bolts turned way loose or you could damage the input shaft, but if it can move just far enough to break free that first little bit you'll be well on your way.

Glenn Evans

The torque tube is bolted to the transmission with SIX bolts. The two you have missed are lower and closer to the centreline than the obvious two upper bolts.

devilinblack

Oh wow. Good catch, Glenn.

Even the PET drawing is not very clear on that. Looking at the back of the TT there's no sign of two additional bolts on top.



The front drawing of the trans is a little more clear, and it does call for six of those bolts.



Thanks again for catching that. That explains a lot!