Still Overheating!
#107
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Quick update.
Ok, both fans are working.
I get changes in the center vent temp when I move the temp setting from high to low.
I can't seem to change airflow from the center vent. The slider has no effect.
Door vents seem to vent heat all the time but not much flow.
I'll need to dig into the vacuum routing more.
10mi drive no overheating. Coolant level is stable, upper and lower hoses both heat up.
Ok, both fans are working.
I get changes in the center vent temp when I move the temp setting from high to low.
I can't seem to change airflow from the center vent. The slider has no effect.
Door vents seem to vent heat all the time but not much flow.
I'll need to dig into the vacuum routing more.
10mi drive no overheating. Coolant level is stable, upper and lower hoses both heat up.
#109
Rennlist Member
Dude... great new here! So how does it feel to be on the road in you S4?
Let me know if you need help with vacuum hose routing. Got an S4 right here to pick apart.
Contrats!
Let me know if you need help with vacuum hose routing. Got an S4 right here to pick apart.
Contrats!
#110
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
The color is silver vein. I was told there's some tricks to putting it down, but it came out awesome. You can barely detect and of the casting flaws that were in the intake or the covers.
Need to put the interior all back together and head for a longer drive. Heading to work and back doesn't quite cut it. Can't wait for this weekend!
Need to put the interior all back together and head for a longer drive. Heading to work and back doesn't quite cut it. Can't wait for this weekend!
#111
Rest in Peace
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Did you see mine, that is the same color I did mine.
It really hides the imperfections in the castings.
It really hides the imperfections in the castings.
The color is silver vein. I was told there's some tricks to putting it down, but it came out awesome. You can barely detect and of the casting flaws that were in the intake or the covers.
Need to put the interior all back together and head for a longer drive. Heading to work and back doesn't quite cut it. Can't wait for this weekend!
Need to put the interior all back together and head for a longer drive. Heading to work and back doesn't quite cut it. Can't wait for this weekend!
#114
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
A friend of mine used this color on a motorcycle frame 10 years ago, I remembered how well it worked there, so I went with it.
Weekend coming, time to put the rest of this wreck back together and detail the snot out of it.
Weekend coming, time to put the rest of this wreck back together and detail the snot out of it.
#115
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Update!
Drove the car about 120mi last weekend.
There is still something wrong.
No overheating but close.
Syptoms:
On long straights, 70mph, constant (small bit!!) throttle, temp runs mid to top line. Will vary with no obvious pattern.
Long downhill with no throttle, temp drops to almost the lower line, as I'd expect with my massive upgrades.
Any kind of throttle work and the temps rise fast. Never above top line, but I believe if I did any track work (or even an autocross) I'd be doomed.
Thus my conclusion:
1) Overheating caused by "x" overpressured my original rad, causing the weak side tank to fail
2) This fail, in turn, caused an overheat, head warpage and resulted in my rebuild.
3) My "new" motor is running better than the last one, therefore stays below critical temps, but the system overall isn't right.
Future work involves troubleshooting (flaps disconnect, fans, chip swap???) and maybe some dynamite.
Drove the car about 120mi last weekend.
There is still something wrong.
No overheating but close.
Syptoms:
On long straights, 70mph, constant (small bit!!) throttle, temp runs mid to top line. Will vary with no obvious pattern.
Long downhill with no throttle, temp drops to almost the lower line, as I'd expect with my massive upgrades.
Any kind of throttle work and the temps rise fast. Never above top line, but I believe if I did any track work (or even an autocross) I'd be doomed.
Thus my conclusion:
1) Overheating caused by "x" overpressured my original rad, causing the weak side tank to fail
2) This fail, in turn, caused an overheat, head warpage and resulted in my rebuild.
3) My "new" motor is running better than the last one, therefore stays below critical temps, but the system overall isn't right.
Future work involves troubleshooting (flaps disconnect, fans, chip swap???) and maybe some dynamite.
#117
Team Owner
did you change out the oil cooler thermostat and springs??
Do you know for sure the radiator is clean inside?
Did you replace the thermostat rear seal , are you using a 75C thermostat
Do you know for sure the radiator is clean inside?
Did you replace the thermostat rear seal , are you using a 75C thermostat
#118
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Didn't replace oil cooler tstat and springs.
Rad is a new C&R. Motor acts just like it did before I blew up the beir.
tstat is new 75C.
Waterpump is new.
Seal behind tstat is new
Didn't find anything weird in the motor when I took it apart.
only warped heads and some corrosion that didn't seem excessive. Definately nothing that would re-clog a second rad!
I've seen recommendations to take some readings with an ir gauge. Does anyone have some specific points to reference?
Rad is a new C&R. Motor acts just like it did before I blew up the beir.
tstat is new 75C.
Waterpump is new.
Seal behind tstat is new
Didn't find anything weird in the motor when I took it apart.
only warped heads and some corrosion that didn't seem excessive. Definately nothing that would re-clog a second rad!
I've seen recommendations to take some readings with an ir gauge. Does anyone have some specific points to reference?
#119
Rest in Peace
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Didn't replace oil cooler tstat and springs.
Rad is a new C&R. Motor acts just like it did before I blew up the beir.
tstat is new 75C.
Waterpump is new.
Seal behind tstat is new
Didn't find anything weird in the motor when I took it apart.
only warped heads and some corrosion that didn't seem excessive. Definately nothing that would re-clog a second rad!
I've seen recommendations to take some readings with an ir gauge. Does anyone have some specific points to reference?
Rad is a new C&R. Motor acts just like it did before I blew up the beir.
tstat is new 75C.
Waterpump is new.
Seal behind tstat is new
Didn't find anything weird in the motor when I took it apart.
only warped heads and some corrosion that didn't seem excessive. Definately nothing that would re-clog a second rad!
I've seen recommendations to take some readings with an ir gauge. Does anyone have some specific points to reference?
#120
An IR temp gun is a cheap and incredibly useful troubleshooting tool. It will tell you when the thermostat opens, where hot spots are, and whether your system is working as designed. It will also validate the gauge. I haven't read the entire thread, but my first thought is either the temp sensor or gauge is reporting a false reading. With all the work you've done, you just might be completely fine and only a gauge problem. IR gun will tell you in short order.